And Yet Another Motor Mount Question

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Jay Anderson

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'68 Valiant, 408 MRL 545 horse/536 torque engine, Art Carr 200 4r with trans brake. The car came with a slant. Using the poly lock type mounts with a torque strap, will this setup survive hard transbrake launches? Street and strip car, and I'll probably have a lot of passes on it.

Thanks!
 
'68 Valiant, 408 MRL 545 horse/536 torque engine, Art Carr 200 4r with trans brake. The car came with a slant. Using the poly lock type mounts with a torque strap, will this setup survive hard transbrake launches? Street and strip car, and I'll probably have a lot of passes on it.

Thanks!


I'm running a similar combo with a touch less hp, but I was still able to beat a Hellcat in a drag race with it. I just swapped out a set of Schumachers poly mounts and went with a pair of stock mounts with a welded in Schumacher torque tube. I noticed that the poly mounts are significantly thicker than the stockers, the driver's side even more so nearly twice as thick. I had the poly's in the car for a few years, but didn't like all the vibration they transmitted into the chassis. They also deformed quite a bit from what I assume is heat. I tried a poly transmission mount, but that really transmitted vibration. I ended up using a HD rubber mount for my 200R4 too. I'm a few weeks away from testing the new set-up, but i am confident it will be fine.

Have you welded up your K-frame and installed the US Cartool chassis stiffening kit? It makes a huge difference in all around performance.
 
I'm running a similar combo with a touch less hp, but I was still able to beat a Hellcat in a drag race with it. I just swapped out a set of Schumachers poly mounts and went with a pair of stock mounts with a welded in Schumacher torque tube. I noticed that the poly mounts are significantly thicker than the stockers, the driver's side even more so nearly twice as thick. I had the poly's in the car for a few years, but didn't like all the vibration they transmitted into the chassis. They also deformed quite a bit from what I assume is heat. I tried a poly transmission mount, but that really transmitted vibration. I ended up using a HD rubber mount for my 200R4 too. I'm a few weeks away from testing the new set-up, but i am confident it will be fine.

Have you welded up your K-frame and installed the US Cartool chassis stiffening kit? It makes a huge difference in all around performance.
Have not welded up the K-frame, but am installing subframe connectors, and my chassis guy is doing some stiffening work and is putting in an 8 point bar for me, but he fabs his own stuff. I don't mind the car picking up all the drivetrain vibrations if it means avoiding too much movement. The deforming does concern me that you experienced. I'm familiar with the k-frame work, but is it critical?
 
Have not welded up the K-frame, but am installing subframe connectors, and my chassis guy is doing some stiffening work and is putting in an 8 point bar for me, but he fabs his own stuff. I don't mind the car picking up all the drivetrain vibrations if it means avoiding too much movement. The deforming does concern me that you experienced. I'm familiar with the k-frame work, but is it critical?


Welding up the K-frame seems worth doing from what i've read over the years. I also boxed in the motor mount stands, steering box mount and lower control arms while I was at it. Adding the 8-point will help dramatically. The Schumacher strut will stop any unwanted movement. It's a strong piece.
 
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