Another 318 set up

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Dan the man said:
Just sitting here thinking about how many different things can be done to the 318 to improve it's performance. Now this is only something that I thought about while waiting for the wife to get her medicine. Edelbrock AVS2 500 cfm carburetor, performer intake, stock heads with a good 3 angle valve job and bowl work, 1.780" intake/ 1.600 exhaust. Cam, 204* / 214* at 0.050. Stock exhaust manifolds with 2 1/2" exhaust pipes. Curve kit, good coil, chrome box? 3.23's. 2200 - 2500 rpm stall speed converter? Compression from 8.4:1 -9.0 1. Would this make for a fun car to enjoy? Remember, I'm just sitting here thinking
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Are you wanting fun 100% on the street only, 50/50 fun on the street and strip, or 20/80 on the street and strip?
Newbomb Turk said:
Why would you kill the engine with a 500 CFM carb and those small valves?

It appears that in your mind you think that’s going to make a bunch of torque (it doesn’t) and that torque moves the car (it doesn’t).

I’d rethink your philosophy.

And anything under a 3k converter is a waste of money.
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Hey Turk. To state, 500cfm carbs are on tons of 318s, are cheap and plentiful, and work fine for a myriad of 318ci set ups even on small valve engines.
Also, torque is the proper measurement that does get a car moving. Horsepower is a calculation of torque and engine RPM and how fast it get to those two numbers is the corresponding horsepower number.
Personal experience says to me a fun car is not a 3,000 stall and are firmly in the performance oriented only category as they are often a pain on the street for driving any real length of time. If Dan-the-man likes to "Punch it!" occasionally then the 2,200-2,500 is fine and his engine build thinking is okay.
 
646566Barracudas said:
Are you wanting fun 100% on the street only, 50/50 fun on the street and strip, or 20/80 on the street and strip?

Hey Turk. To state, 500cfm carbs are on tons of 318s, are cheap and plentiful, and work fine for a myriad of 318ci set ups even on small valve engines.
Also, torque is the proper measurement that does get a car moving. Horsepower is a calculation of torque and engine RPM and how fast it get to those two numbers is the corresponding horsepower number.
Personal experience says to me a fun car is not a 3,000 stall and are firmly in the performance oriented only category as they are often a pain on the street for driving any real length of time. If Dan-the-man likes to "Punch it!" occasionally then the 2,200-2,500 is fine and his engine build thinking is okay.
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100% street use.
 
646566Barracudas said:
Are you wanting fun 100% on the street only, 50/50 fun on the street and strip, or 20/80 on the street and strip?

Hey Turk. To state, 500cfm carbs are on tons of 318s, are cheap and plentiful, and work fine for a myriad of 318ci set ups even on small valve engines.
Also, torque is the proper measurement that does get a car moving. Horsepower is a calculation of torque and engine RPM and how fast it get to those two numbers is the corresponding horsepower number.
Personal experience says to me a fun car is not a 3,000 stall and are firmly in the performance oriented only category as they are often a pain on the street for driving any real length of time. If Dan-the-man likes to "Punch it!" occasionally then the 2,200-2,500 is fine and his engine build thinking is okay.
Click to expand...


Just because a lot of something is being used doesn't make it right.

A 500 CFM 4V carb is garbage can filler.

I know you want it to be, but it's not so try and learn this. Horsepower does the work. It moves the car. Keep lying to yourself if you want. Or learn the truth.
 
should the 318 be build as a torque monster or horse power? not sure which one moves the car better?:poke:
 
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this thread really went off the rails, it's kind of a shame....


anyway, my personal preference for a 90% street driver, I don't like high RPM's on the highway, I've been soothed too much since I started driving in '91 from my duster with it's 3.23's and factory A833OD, 5th ave's with 2.24 rears, my '96 ram which had an OD manual and 3.21's, or my current DD, a 2011 charger R/T with an A580 and 3.07 rear gears.

Also my personal preference for a street driver, I've preferred engines with a fat midrange, that make power from 1500-5500 RPM over something that might make a ton of high end HP, but doesn't really come alive until 4K rpm and that you need to spin to 6500 to get full potential out of it.

I had 3.55's with 27" tires on my old 5th ave hot rod and hated it. to keep up with freeway traffic I was turning 3200-3500 RPM. I was much happier after putting in a 42RH.

While taller (lower) numerically gears do kind of kill the fun, there are ways around that even without resorting to an OD. one would be find a lockup 904/998 (like out of a 5th ave). those have a lower first gear (2.74 vs. 2.45), and if you couple that with a higher stall (like a 2500-2800 RPM) lockup converter, then you can run 2.76's in the rear, but still get the engine higher up in the powerband/torque peak where maximum torque multiplication happens (stall speed), to still have good tire roasting ability and acceleration, while not compromising highway drivability (2400rpm @ 70mph with a 27" tall tire).

or if you build a engine that has a nice flat torque curve between 2000-5000 RPM, an A833OD's gear splits really aren't that bad.
 
michiganpat said:
this thread really went off the rails, it's kind of a shame....


anyway, my personal preference for a 90% street driver, I don't like high RPM's on the highway, I've been soothed too much since I started driving in '91 from my duster with it's 3.23's and factory A833OD, 5th ave's with 2.24 rears, my '96 ram which had an OD manual and 3.21's, or my current DD, a 2011 charger R/T with an A580 and 3.07 rear gears.

Also my personal preference for a street driver, I've preferred engines with a fat midrange, that make power from 1500-5500 RPM over something that might make a ton of high end HP, but doesn't really come alive until 4K rpm and that you need to spin to 6500 to get full potential out of it.

I had 3.55's with 27" tires on my old 5th ave hot rod and hated it. to keep up with freeway traffic I was turning 3200-3500 RPM. I was much happier after putting in a 42RH.

While taller (lower) numerically gears do kind of kill the fun, there are ways around that even without resorting to an OD. one would be find a lockup 904/998 (like out of a 5th ave). those have a lower first gear (2.74 vs. 2.45), and if you couple that with a higher stall (like a 2500-2800 RPM) lockup converter, then you can run 2.76's in the rear, but still get the engine higher up in the powerband/torque peak where maximum torque multiplication happens (stall speed), to still have good tire roasting ability and acceleration, while not compromising highway drivability (2400rpm @ 70mph with a 27" tall tire).

or if you build a engine that has a nice flat torque curve between 2000-5000 RPM, an A833OD's gear splits really aren't that bad.
Click to expand...
For a lot of guys I think they should build around the gears and stall their willing to run, which is usually not much.
 
273 said:
For a lot of guys I think they should build around the gears and stall their willing to run, which is usually not much.
Click to expand...
that's like the cam selector equation: choose the cam you want and then go down at least one size, and more likely two is gonna be where you should end up.
 
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