Another 408 Validation

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WarHammer

WarHammer

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Joined
Oct 13, 2020
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Havelock, NC
Hello all. Doing my first engine build and just looking for some insight for those more experienced than I.
I have a 1972 360 that is at the machine shop. It will be bored .30 over and get the normal treatment of dip, plugs, bearings, and zero decked. I have found what I think is a good stroker kit (eagle esp 20502; cast crank, i beam rods 3/8 arp studs, mahle forged -.16cc dish pistons, internal balanced assembly) that will achieve 10.6:1 compression ratio. Additionally the top end will have edelbrock performer rpm heads, rpm air gap intake, edelbrock rpm cam and lifter set (318 exhaust, 308 intake, .488 lift, 112 lobe sep), going with Felpro wire ring head gasket at .039 compressed and 4.180 bore. The primary use is street/strip.

Just looking for insight as to if this is accurate and if it's a good build choice for my intended application.
 
ch1ll said:
Not a big fan of Eagle anything.
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I’m really not an Eagle fan either but I ran 6.0’s with my Eagle 422 crank and rods. It will be going in a friends build soon. But I would take an Eagle CAST crank like he’s using even if you gave it to me and delivered it. I don’t like the 3/8 rod bolts he’s using either.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’m really not an Eagle fan either but I ran 6.0’s with my Eagle 422 crank and rods. It will be going in a friends build soon. But I would take an Eagle CAST crank like he’s using even if you gave it to me and delivered it. I don’t like the 3/8 rod bolts he’s using either.
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There are so many better quality cranks on the market today even if they cost more. I’ve heard to many eagles have snapped.
 
ch1ll said:
There are so many better quality cranks on the market today even if they cost more. I’ve heard to many eagles have snapped.
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Trust me it wouldn’t have been my first choice. It came new and balanced with 360-1 Indy heads, cam, pistons, rings, bearings, and an R3 block ready to assemble for 7000.00. A Molnar crank and rods will be going in it hopefully this winter. They are sitting here ready to go get balanced when I get pistons.
 
Pretty mild build . So unless he is launching with a 4sp and sticky tires I doubt there be an issue. That being said if costs are close try going with a more reputable brand .
For a street car probably wouldn’t be any issues.

Torque monster ! Great for a driver !
 
In my opinion eagle has terrible reputation.
I would buy a scat kit long before an eagle. Molnar crank would be my first choice at a reasonable price point. (Meaning no Bryant $5000 cranks and the rest).
I would get Molnars h-beam rods with good bolts too.
 
33IMP said:
In my opinion eagle has terrible reputation.
I would buy a scat kit long before an eagle. Molnar crank would be my first choice at a reasonable price point. (Meaning no Bryant $5000 cranks and the rest).
I would get Molnars h-beam rods with good bolts too.
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Molnar rods only come with good bolts.
 
Honestly what are the percentage of Eagle cranks that failed ? And how many of those were max performance engines for racing ?
I ask this in all sincerity…
It’s like the 741 8 3/4 taboo.

I ran a stock cast 360 crank in a 500 hp engine with a 4 sp and had no issues. In fact Herb McCandless himself told me told me himself that he had never seen a failure in an application like my build . And he told me how to build it .
 
The factory 360 cast crank in my opinion, is stronger than the eagle cast 4" crank.
 
And that cam is a turd in a stock stroke 360, I would never use it in a stroker build.
 
Anyone buy recently from Velasco Crankshaft in CA? Are they still in business?
 
mbaird said:
Honestly what are the percentage of Eagle cranks that failed ? And how many of those were max performance engines for racing ?
I ask this in all sincerity…
It’s like the 741 8 3/4 taboo.

I ran a stock cast 360 crank in a 500 hp engine with a 4 sp and had no issues. In fact Herb McCandless himself told me told me himself that he had never seen a failure in an application like my build . And he told me how to build it .
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Actually 360 cast cranks are real stout.

If your buying an aftermarket stroker crank, you might as well get one with a good reputation.
 
mbaird said:
Herb McCandless himself told me told me himself
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Had many conversations with Herb, he shoots straight, but he would never recommend a cast crank.
All his advise was buy the best you can because you're gonna want to go faster.
He would tell you make sure the pistons are cut for .650. lol
 
fishmens67 said:
Had many conversations with Herb, he shoots straight, but he would never recommend a cast crank.
All his advise was buy the best you can because you're gonna want to go faster.
He would tell you make sure the pistons are cut for .650. lol
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Well he did … and directed me to Norris rockers and Tubular Automotive headers as well as recommended the cam .
But he knew I was building a street/strip engine not a Motown Missile . In that case Im sure he would have spoken different.
 
mbaird said:
Well he did … and directed me to Norris rockers and Tubular Automotive headers as well as recommended the cam .
But he knew I was building a street/strip engine not a Motown Missile . In that case Im sure he would have spoken different.
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Did he just happen to have that cast crank laying on a shelf. Lol
 
pittsburghracer said:
Did he just happen to have that cast crank laying on a shelf. Lol
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No I hd it already .. lol
Actually I was concerned it wouldn’t be strong enough and he convinced me otherwise. He also told me he was involved in the development of the W2 head .
 
Years ago I drove over an Eagle stroker crank. Wasn’t fun.
Wouldn’t put one in a garden tractor.
Want to build a bomb? Pair up an Eagle cast stroker crank with SIR rods:lol:
 
replicaracer43 said:
The factory 360 cast crank in my opinion, is stronger than the eagle cast 4" crank.
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I suspect the "overlap" area is more on the 360 shorter stroke crank giving it more meat to withstand the stresses involved. If both cranks were on a table in front of you, it would likely be easy to see.

As for an Eagle forged crank (not cast), I'm guilty. I got one used that was in a 408 that ran 10.80's for several years. Then it sat for about 12 years and I bought it in a package deal. I'm guessing it's about 20+ years old now. It's in my 408 on its 3rd year now and still going. Low 11's only though. (Don - hope I never "run over it!! :eek:)
 
WarHammer said:
Hello all. Doing my first engine build and just looking for some insight for those more experienced than I.
I have a 1972 360 that is at the machine shop. It will be bored .30 over and get the normal treatment of dip, plugs, bearings, and zero decked. I have found what I think is a good stroker kit (eagle esp 20502; cast crank, i beam rods 3/8 arp studs, mahle forged -.16cc dish pistons, internal balanced assembly) that will achieve 10.6:1 compression ratio. Additionally the top end will have edelbrock performer rpm heads, rpm air gap intake, edelbrock rpm cam and lifter set (318 exhaust, 308 intake, .488 lift, 112 lobe sep), going with Felpro wire ring head gasket at .039 compressed and 4.180 bore. The primary use is street/strip.

Just looking for insight as to if this is accurate and if it's a good build choice for my intended application.
Click to expand...
Be sure to cc the heads if you're trying to achieve that 10.6 CR. I have those Eddie RPM heads and had to deck them to achieve the 10.5 CR I was after. Sometimes they're advertised as 65cc and sometimes 63cc. Best to just deck them to achieve the CR you are after and be done with it.
 
Demonx2 said:
Be sure to cc the heads if you're trying to achieve that 10.6 CR. I have those Eddie RPM heads and had to deck them to achieve the 10.5 CR I was after. Sometimes they're advertised as 65cc and sometimes 63cc. Best to just deck them to achieve the CR you are after and be done with it.
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The 65 cc heads are for the positive deck 340 motors
The 63 cc heads are for the rest( not machined to accept positive deck slugs)
 
B3422w5 said:
The 65 cc heads are for the positive deck 340 motors
The 63 cc heads are for the rest( not machined to accept positive deck slugs)
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Yes, that's the mistake I made with my 340. I ran KB flattops. Factory deck height.
 
Let's second guess Herb since we are much smarter.......Eagle failures? show us the info, I ran the snot out of 416 with those despicable parts...must be lucky.
Cam selection looks a bit light even for me, typically everyone over-cams the stoker and then wonders why it is so lazy
Exhaust manifolds on eddy heads?? If using the 68-70 340 left side it will not fit without grinding
 
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