Another clutch not completely disengaging thread

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I have a wilwood master and slave, on my car. I get 1.3 inch on the master and 1.25 on the slave. I would do as Del said and set it up on the bench. Can you call the maker of the bearing and find out what the stroke is supposed to be?
 
brian6pac said:
The PDF file I posted, if you can read it says a 3/4" bore moves the slave .45", less than a 1/2". How far does your pressure plate need to move to disconnect? You need to know this before you go much further. Who makes your clutch, contact them and ask.
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Where does it say that, I can not find it. .45 does not seem like enough movement to me
 
if you click on the bar it should show up if you can get a pdf file.
I tried to convert it but cant seem to do it.
 

Attachments

  • Street-MAX Bearing Travel.pdf
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brian6pac said:
if you click on the bar it should show up if you can get a pdf file.
I tried to convert it but cant seem to do it.
Click to expand...


Sorry maybe I was not clear. I read through the pdf and cannot find the statement you referred to. Just page 1 or 2, what part of the page? Thanks
 
67Dart273 said:
Sorry maybe I was not clear. I read through the pdf and cannot find the statement you referred to. Just page 1 or 2, what part of the page? Thanks
Click to expand...


post 28 click on it there is only one page
 
Hey everyone thanks for the replies, i just spent another 3 hours trying to vacum bleed, pressure bleed, played around with the MC rod adjustment (again) and nothing. It is still exactly the same, managed to have a look at pressure plate and all looks to be working fine, just not disengaging enough.
So before i remove the trans for the 6th or 7th time (lost count now) would it be worth trying a larger bore MC like say 7/8"?
jaws said:
I have a wilwood master and slave, on my car. I get 1.3 inch on the master and 1.25 on the slave. I would do as Del said and set it up on the bench. Can you call the maker of the bearing and find out what the stroke is supposed to be?
Click to expand...

Website says it has a max travel of 3/4", of which im getting approximately 3/8", and the MC (3/4" bore with 1.4" stroke is fully stroked).
 
I just found this pic of pressure plate / clutch thats in the car (that my friend installed), if anyone can see anything wrong here please let me know thanks!

20170803_165911.jpg
 
ozmoparjoe said:
Hey everyone thanks for the replies, i just spent another 3 hours trying to vacum bleed, pressure bleed, played around with the MC rod adjustment (again) and nothing. It is still exactly the same, managed to have a look at pressure plate and all looks to be working fine, just not disengaging enough.
So before i remove the trans for the 6th or 7th time (lost count now) would it be worth trying a larger bore MC like say 7/8"?


Website says it has a max travel of 3/4", of which im getting approximately 3/8", and the MC (3/4" bore with 1.4" stroke is fully stroked).
Click to expand...


Like I said before, who makes the clutch, disc, do you have part #s
contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend for travel to disengage.
 
brian6pac said:
Like I said before, who makes the clutch, disc, do you have part #s
contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend for travel to disengage.
Click to expand...
I will most likely be pulling the Trans after work today, then I'll have a better idea, as I can't remember the brand etc, will keep posted thanks.
 
ozmoparjoe said:
I just found this pic of pressure plate / clutch thats in the car (that my friend installed), if anyone can see anything wrong here please let me know thanks!

View attachment 1715115676
Click to expand...

This DOES bring up an old memory: Are you SURE the clutch / pp works OK regardless of the slave setup?

In the '70's I put a 10 1/2" Corvette diaphragm pp in my 340, and it would not release. The pp was JUST PLAIN DEFECTIVE. I fought it for a week, and since it was an adaptation, we kept thinking "some ting wong". I finally exchanged it for another just like it and it just worked GREAT.

If you have access to a large enough press, "rig" the flywheel, disk and pp in there with something to mimick the T.O. bearing and measure how much movement it takes to release it. Verify with at least a .040--.060" (inch) feeler gauge

 
Ok just pulled the Trans and found the new street max hydraulic TO bearing is destroyed! Haven't removed the clutch/pressure plate yet.
Can anyone please give me some idea as to why this would happen?

20171130_173336.jpg


20171130_173344.jpg


20171130_173855.jpg


20171130_173908.jpg
 
last couple, i think its safe to say that the centre of the TO bearing was hitting the clutch disc shaft, but why? One thing i did notice was when the pressure plate was bolted to the flywheel, the fingers were pretty much straight (not angled out towards gearbox).
No part number on the pressure plate apart from what looks to be the number 501. I do recall the guy over the counter telling me its a Chevy one, clutch is 10.5" unit.
If anyone can give me any pointers, id love to read them!
Thanks again to everyone.

20171130_185741.jpg


20171130_191153.jpg
 
ozmoparjoe said:
Ok just pulled the Trans and found the new street max hydraulic TO bearing is destroyed! Haven't removed the clutch/pressure plate yet.
Can anyone please give me some idea as to why this would happen?

View attachment 1715116516

View attachment 1715116517

View attachment 1715116518

View attachment 1715116519
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Third and fourth pic, fingers look very close to the disk center hub. Thinking pressure plate is bad. And in pic 1 and 2, is the bearing broken away from the center sleeve?
 
jaws said:
Third and fourth pic, fingers look very close to the disk center hub. Thinking pressure plate is bad. And in pic 1 and 2, is the bearing broken away from the center sleeve?
Click to expand...
Agreed, i too suspect the pressure plate.
The guy that got me the TO bearing from Powertrain Technology, has offered to help me get this sorted out (thank God) but in the meantime, i still would love to hear peoples ideas on this.
 
Psssst,last photo, the raised part of clutch disc goes to flywheel. Aka-its backwards.
Or bass-akwards.

Edit: nope im wrong, its cleary marked. Sowwy...
 
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I mis "looked" LOL. HERE is what might be happening..........You shimmed the assembly way to far ahead, and the snout of the TO was actually pressing on the clutch disk, "trying" to keep it engaged.
 
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67Dart273 said:
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I mis "looked" LOL. HERE is what might be happening..........You shimmed the assembly way to far ahead, and the snout of the TO was actually pressing on the clutch disk, "trying" to keep it engaged.
Click to expand...
When I set up the TO bearing I made sure to leave a gap between it and the pp fingers, that gap was about 3-4 mm, and so it needed all those shims, I agree that's a lot of them.
Looking at the clutch disc, does it look like a standard mopar type? Or does the center hub (where the splines are), look too long?
 
I think I have 7 shims in mine however like I mentioned earlier my blue piece is on first and is slid all the way back again the retainer sleeve. What’s your measurement from the trans face to the front of the TOB (before the bearing was destroyed)? I’ve got mine written down and can compare that tomorrow. You’d think they’d be the same or close. With that said with you having that gap between the retainer and your shims makes me believe your setup is around 1/2” further away from the trans face where it bolts to the bellhousing putting the TOB 1/2” closet to the pressure plate. If that’s the case I’d suspect a pressure plate issue.
 
ozmoparjoe said:
When I set up the TO bearing I made sure to leave a gap between it and the pp fingers, that gap was about 3-4 mm, and so it needed all those shims, I agree that's a lot of them.
Looking at the clutch disc, does it look like a standard mopar type? Or does the center hub (where the splines are), look too long?
Click to expand...

Well the thing is it has been HITTING and RUBBING. I bet this is your problem. Remember...........many engines have a sizeable amount of crank end play (thrust bearing) Plus when the PP releases the disk will come BACK to the rear!!!

What that thing will do, rubbing the disk, is try to push the disk forward against the flywheel!!
 
CrOoKs said:
I think I have 7 shims in mine however like I mentioned earlier my blue piece is on first and is slid all the way back again the retainer sleeve. What’s your measurement from the trans face to the front of the TOB (before the bearing was destroyed)? I’ve got mine written down and can compare that tomorrow. You’d think they’d be the same or close. With that said with you having that gap between the retainer and your shims makes me believe your setup is around 1/2” further away from the trans face where it bolts to the bellhousing putting the TOB 1/2” closet to the pressure plate. If that’s the case I’d suspect a pressure plate issue.
Click to expand...
I cannot for the life of me find the paper with all my measurements on, typical!
Best I can do for now is this pic, hopefully I can find it!
 
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