Strip traction for the vast majority of us will be about chassis and tires . A friend of mine that runs a 6.1 drag pak Challenger ( normally aspirated) is having trouble getting a good 60 ft reading because the car keeps tripping the 60 ft beams with the rear tires! The car runs 9.60s on a nine inch radial slick,,,,,,,,,It is something to watch.
Another Magnum 408 build!
- Thread starter gregsdart
- Start date
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I hate spirolocks! I understand they make a tool for installing them, but I guess I would rather complain! I finished assembling the shortblock, built a custom oil pan out of some sheet steel and the old truck pan, and have the heads on. Since I have a coilover plus rack and pinion steering front on this car, I have options for exhaust, not so much for oil pans. There are no pans that fit what I wanted. To get decent oil capacity and ground clearance plus clearance for the TTI headers, I went with 7.5 inches of pan depth, and a kick out of 2 inch on the drivers side to gain capacity. The dimensions are 11 inch long x 10 inch wide bottom, 5.5 quart sump capacity, allowing a full 7 quarts when you count the filter plus what is in the motor top end. The pump pickup was gotten from CNC motorsports, and is bolted to the bottom of the pump with the regular pipe thread hole plugged. It is part # 101 if I recall correctly, for a passenger side kick out pan used for roundy round racing. I shortened the horizontal part of the pickup tube, which centered it to the block. Not ideal, but this is a street car and won't be making any hard turns. Plus with a full five and a half quarts in the sump, I figure it will be fine.
I am waiting on some parts to arrive; I had to buy a remote oil filter adapter from a member here, and order a bunch of small things to finish up the build. Air cleaner, collector extensions, etc for dyno tuning, jets, bolts, and on and on. The intake manifold has to be cut .050 due to tolerance stack up and decking the block to get it square.
The welding on the oilpan is crude, I don't have very steady hands and use the welder at least once a year! After a lot of messing around I finally got all the pin hole leaks fixed! Now I realize I need pulleys to dyno this thing! I had planned on robing the ones off the 318 that this motor is replacing, but don't want to pull that motor yet or make the Dart undriveable till fall.
The oil dip stick guide inside the pan got shortened when I cut it for the new sump; Looks like the new dipstick will be for decoration! I am not pulling the pan off again, unless I have a leak or some trouble, which I am not expecting.
I am waiting on some parts to arrive; I had to buy a remote oil filter adapter from a member here, and order a bunch of small things to finish up the build. Air cleaner, collector extensions, etc for dyno tuning, jets, bolts, and on and on. The intake manifold has to be cut .050 due to tolerance stack up and decking the block to get it square.
The welding on the oilpan is crude, I don't have very steady hands and use the welder at least once a year! After a lot of messing around I finally got all the pin hole leaks fixed! Now I realize I need pulleys to dyno this thing! I had planned on robing the ones off the 318 that this motor is replacing, but don't want to pull that motor yet or make the Dart undriveable till fall.
The oil dip stick guide inside the pan got shortened when I cut it for the new sump; Looks like the new dipstick will be for decoration! I am not pulling the pan off again, unless I have a leak or some trouble, which I am not expecting.
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It pees me off to have to cut on $900 headers to make them fit!!!
No matter how I tried, I couldn't get the number one tube bolts in. I tried every which
way, finally concluding the only fix was to cut the flange between cylinder one and three. I had considered enlarging a few holes, but the ports wouldn't have lined up well.
Prying the end tube over a touch and the bolts went in.
No matter how I tried, I couldn't get the number one tube bolts in. I tried every which
way, finally concluding the only fix was to cut the flange between cylinder one and three. I had considered enlarging a few holes, but the ports wouldn't have lined up well.
Prying the end tube over a touch and the bolts went in.
So sorry, who's headers?
I had a very tight fit with my TTI's. Very!
I had a very tight fit with my TTI's. Very!
You didn't by chance happen to run a straight edge on that TTI header flange at various points of reference did you (one would assume the EQ head studs line up with each other) Couple of pictures and send them off to TTI just to let em know "WTF"!!
TTIs. Early A body.
After reading your post I went out and checked the Dougs headers I have mocked up on my EQ heads. I only have the end bolts installed and while there is wiggle room to move the header slightly the two center bolt holes for pipes 3-5 and 4-6 on the header flanges aren't perfectly centered with the heads stud bores, luckily when I first trial fitted them all the bolts went in no problem. A clean cut still beats the typical bashing most require with a hammer though. Hopefully they go in with no need for that.
cookietruck
Well-Known Member
i had to do the same thing, same side, same spot, on my doug's headers with magnum heads. the other side was a tough to get the bolt started but it worked without cutting...i'm going to cut the flange on that side next time i pull it off. just makes it easier to get stuff back together...
Bhumped
o1heavy
1974 dart sport
ok just so I'm clear this 500 hp smallblock
is going in the blue dart
is going in the blue dart
Yep!
Brian Hafliger
Well-Known Member
Glad to see your happy Greg! Excellent results with your IRON heads!!!! Ha ha...just plain awesome! Thank you for the info too by the way...
Greg! Thanks for putting that up!
So often the recipe for 500hp is thought to "NEED" 300+cfm heads, single plane, but solid roller, etc....
Thanks for showing otherwise.
(OH! Side note for your friend with the rear tires tripping the beams. Has he tried a deep stage?)
As a stock class racer, he will do everything he can to keep that maximum rollout. Class racers will go to any lengths for .01 in ET!
And thanks to you Brian for coaching me and for the recipe for this build!!! I wished we would have had time and parts to try those stepped TTI early A headers. I bet it would of produced some interesting torque changes!
I assume that with a street/strip medium stall converter, serious mid range torque makes for better ETs than the best horsepower the combo is capable of.
Brian Hafliger
Well-Known Member
Average HP and TQ are really what does the job...TQ is KEY because it does all the work...we just measure that time and call it HP! And TQ is just filling the cylinder...it's all about that column of air and getting it into the cylinder. Engines need to be able to accelerate the car...your combo will do just that!
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
how you like that cam?? got one gonna put in a 318 with home ported 302 heads. thinking bout a 4 inch crank but skeerd id need better heads.
Don’t be scared! For certain a 4.00 arm will need better head flow, no doubt.
Now your up around 390 cubes. And that is a lot for any stock/stock replacement head.
Now your up around 390 cubes. And that is a lot for any stock/stock replacement head.
I wouldn't be afraid to put a 4 inch crank in a 318 with the heads you have. It will just be a torque animal, and make more hp than the 318 for sure despite the poor heads. I had a set of 906 BB iron heads on a 535 (!) and it went low tens with nothing more than 4.10 gears turning 33 inch tall slicks in a 3400 lb car.
With the 4 inch crank, you can run a rather tight converter and still get decent performance. Not so with a 318,,,,,,, The cam I ran (mid sized muthr thumpr) will like the 4 inch crank a lot better too. When you want to add some power, go with the EQ heads and copy my basic build, and you should get about 450 hp!
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
ive got the exact same cam you got! and a dynamic 2800 stall and a holley street domanator intake to go on a low millage hyd roller cam LA 318 with them 302 heads so far got 350 bucks invested guess a 4 inch crank be on my xmas wish list along with a set of hyperthermic KB pistons and if it suffers to bad on top end set of magnum heads and still be right budget minded motor when im done!
I certainly won’t argue that!
My comment comes from a “Maximizing the Combo” point of view.
And Greg makes an excellent point. As I see it, “Just build it!” As well you can copy his build. No shame there!
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