Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

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rumblefish360 said:
I have never seen shafts with holes in them to oil the rocker adjusters.
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Ok, here are brand new, never used W2/5 rocker shafts.

You can see it has 3 sets of oil holes per rocker. One oils the shaft under the rocker, one hole is used to spray oil on the valve springs via a hole in the rocker in the notch for the valve spring, and the last one is to oil the adjusters.

The really important one is the one that has to get oil to the adjusters. Even on these shafts, and even though the oil hole is there, it's not clocked correctly both radially and laterally.

As near as I can tell (and I'm pretty sure I'm right) the holes are clocked for T/A offset rockers. Every set of shafts I've bought or used has been wrong. AFAIK, Chrysler never made a shaft with the holes in the correct location.

If you correct the location of the holes, and if you keep your idle oil volume (and pressure) up (I don't like to go lower than 40 hot idle pressure) Chrysler oil timing will oil the adjusters with at least 340 on the seat, 900 over the nose and net .750 lift and will do it easily.

You can't groove the shafts to the holes and make them oil (BTDT). The hole in the shaft MUST align with the hole in the rocker when the valve is on the seat. If you do that, and if you keep the volume and pressure up at idle, you'll almost never kill an adjuster.

Why Chrysler didn't address this I can't say, but I'm damn sure they know about it. I sent in the paperwork to MoPar Performance to prove they were either nuts or liars.

If you fix the oil timing, it renders pushrod oiling obsolete.

Edit: forgot to add the pictures!!!!
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
I'm not sure what thread it was in, but someone linked the below article from 2008, nothing too interesting, but it had a picture for a set of #3 main bearings that have a slot vs a hole (like in the Sanborn thread). I've looked in the clevite books and searched both jegs and summit, no luck figuring out the part number.

Maybe someone else has some more input

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0806-mopar-clevite-engine-bearing-guide/

mopp_0806_03_z-clevite-half_groove_engine_bearings.jpg
 
TurboGLH said:
I'm not sure what thread it was in, but someone linked the below article from 2008, nothing too interesting, but it had a picture for a set of #3 main bearings that have a slot vs a hole (like in the Sanborn thread). I've looked in the clevite books and searched both jegs and summit, no luck figuring out the part number.

Maybe someone else has some more input

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0806-mopar-clevite-engine-bearing-guide/

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The King bearings have addressed the need for an elongated oil hole in their main bearings.

BTW... who the heck sells Chi-Com oil pumps? I suppose they cast in the Melling part#, too?
 
Krooser said:
The King bearings have addressed the need for an elongated oil hole in their main bearings.

BTW... who the heck sells Chi-Com oil pumps? I suppose they cast in the Melling part#, too?
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Krooser said:
The King bearings have addressed the need for an elongated oil hole in their main bearings.

BTW... who the heck sells Chi-Com oil pumps? I suppose they cast in the Melling part#, too?
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I ended up buying clevitte H series, but I'm curious about what changes king made to their bearings.

Block is machined and painted, but I've been working on the front/rear suspension, so the bearings are still new in the box.
 
This is exactly what Joes Performance in Ft Myers did to my 340 in 2012

abodyjoe said:
yea man show us...


is it anything like this from mopar i think it was??


A ENGINE OIL MODIFICATION
In an A engine with a solid or roller lifter cam, we highly recommend installing the Chrysler P4120603 lifter oil block off tube kit. Regardless of whether you use a hydraulic, solid, or roller cam, we recommend the following modifications.
Purchase an 8” to 10” long 9/32 drill bit. Remove the main cape. Ion the mains number 1-2-3-4 there is an oil passage which goes from the top on the main saddles to the lifter galley on the passenger side on the block. Slowly drill these 4 passages to 9/32”. Cast iron is very hard to drill without the bit trying to hangup, so do not try to rush this job. If you happen to break the bit, you will have real problems.
Take your oil pump and rill the neck of the pump (the section between the rotor and the main cap) ½” Take a sand paper roll (the kinds used in porting heads) and go in the pump above the rotors and debur and slick the area above the rotors. You will need to slick the hole in the pump neck that you have drilled also. Drill to ½” the rear main cap where the oil goes through and polish with sandpaper roll.
You will need a 10” long ½” drill bit for the next step. With the rear main cap removed, look in the hole where the oil goes into the block. There is a 9/16” freeze plug which diverts the oil through the oil filter. Remove this plug by inserting a ¼” rod through he hold where the oil pressure gauge goes in the top side of the block. Drill the hole ½” up to the lifter galley where the plug was removed. Remove the oil filter and any adapter plates from the block. Remove the pipe plug from the block that is under the filter. Drill to ½” both holes that go from the filter to the passage that leads the lifter galley. Now remove the pipe plug in the rear of the block behind the oil filter and drill this passage to the center of the oil filter bolt ½”.
DO NOT DRILL PASSAGES FROM THE MAINS TO THE CAMSHAFT. DO NOT RESTRICT THE OIL TO THE ROCKER ARMS.
Once all passages are drilled, completely clean the block very well. We use Milodon #34010 brush kit to clean all the oil passages. Once the block is clean, replace the 9/16” plug that diverts the oil to the filter and the plug under the oil filter. If you make the above modification, you have greatly increased the volume of oil that fees the crankshaft and the bearings of your A engine.
We highly recommend the Milodon 10 quart oil pan with the swivel pickup. This system comes with a pump cover and a 1 ¼” rotor. Using the long rotor greatly increases the oil volume. The swivel pickup makes sure there is always oil at the pickup. Also use fully grooved (wide groove) main bearings. We do not recommend stock type oil pans that have been cut and deepened as these pans can run out of oil under acceleration or deceleration. They are not baffled properly. While the cost of a good oil system is expensive, it is not nearly the price of a new engine.
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What ever happen to Guitar Jones after he sold his Scamp & got into the old trucks? I haven't seen anything about him since March of 2019.
 
Unfortunately I was banned from Moparts from some reason & no one can tell me why.
 
Demonracer said:
Unfortunately I was banned from Moparts from some reason & no one can tell me why.
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I was banned for an “EBay” mention.
Banned again for some other stupid reason.
I have been there under three different screen names and gave up. Seldom I go there.
 
After I was banned, I emailed one or the mods I forget who it was. I was told that I was banned & I would have to get in touch with the administrator. They didn't give me any way to get in touch, so I told the mod to go pound sand in my 7th email.
 
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I combed through this thread, some good ideas and some I question.

The biggest question comes from the idea that the #4 main is starved as the oil prefers to fly past the feed hole....this is pretty dubious (as others already noted).

The desire of oil to go past #4 would pretty much be the same as it would for #2 and #3 if that were the case. Additionally, if there is 60PSI (or whatever) within the system, that pressure tends to exist independent of flow. In other words, if there is 60PSI at the #4 oil feed hole, oil is going to want to pursue the path of least resistance and go down that hole. It's not going to keep trucking past so that it can join the fight of maintaining 60PSI elsewhere. The oil will prefer to go straight past #4 if it's a no-pressure situation. But as soon as you pump more oil into the galleys than can escape, you begin building pressure and the oil is obligated to find someplace it can go to escape, even if it has to take a right angle turn.

Here's my question...I've read tons of theory, but no one has admitted to actually tapping a pressure gauge into #4 to read what's going on. Who has done it?

I also wonder...rather than letting the oil go to the mains then back up to the cam bearings (#2/#3/#4), what if you blocked it and fed those three bearings in the lifter valley using small tubing?
 
gregcon said:
I combed through this thread, some good ideas and some I question.

The biggest question comes from the idea that the #4 main is starved as the oil prefers to fly past the feed hole....this is pretty dubious (as others already noted).

The desire of oil to go past #4 would pretty much be the same as it would for #2 and #3 if that were the case. Additionally, if there is 60PSI (or whatever) within the system, that pressure tends to exist independent of flow. In other words, if there is 60PSI at the #4 oil feed hole, oil is going to want to pursue the path of least resistance and go down that hole. It's not going to keep trucking past so that it can join the fight of maintaining 60PSI elsewhere. The oil will prefer to go straight past #4 if it's a no-pressure situation. But as soon as you pump more oil into the galleys than can escape, you begin building pressure and the oil is obligated to find someplace it can go to escape, even if it has to take a right angle turn.

Here's my question...I've read tons of theory, but no one has admitted to actually tapping a pressure gauge into #4 to read what's going on. Who has done it?

I also wonder...rather than letting the oil go to the mains then back up to the cam bearings (#2/#3/#4), what if you blocked it and fed those three bearings in the lifter valley using small tubing?
Click to expand...

I think you've pretty much come to the same crossroad as everyone else. I'm not doubting the intelligence of the guys who worked with/for Chrysler that came up with the theory (in addition to tons of other great info), but it flies in the face of everything that a lot of us know about hydraulics and pressure. The story as it's told, is that the theory on the #4 was developed in a no pressures situation, using a bare block and a garden hose.

Like anything else, you have to take the info available and do what you're comfortable with. For every time that people scoffed at something that sounded odd, but turned out to be genius, there's 1000 times where something odd was just that.

Personally, I tubed the passenger oil main, and blocked supply to the drivers. I also reduced oiling to the cam by re-drilling the cam bearings with a .125 hole, and supplied full time oiling to the heads from a point earlier in the oil system. My experience agree's with the idea that keeping as much oil in the system for the rods/mains will do nothing but good things, and I consider all of those mods to be steps in that direction.
 
TurboGLH said:
I think you've pretty much come to the same crossroad as everyone else. I'm not doubting the intelligence of the guys who worked with/for Chrysler that came up with the theory (in addition to tons of other great info), but it flies in the face of everything that a lot of us know about hydraulics and pressure. The story as it's told, is that the theory on the #4 was developed in a no pressures situation, using a bare block and a garden hose.

Like anything else, you have to take the info available and do what you're comfortable with. For every time that people scoffed at something that sounded odd, but turned out to be genius, there's 1000 times where something odd was just that.

Personally, I tubed the passenger oil main, and blocked supply to the drivers. I also reduced oiling to the cam by re-drilling the cam bearings with a .125 hole, and supplied full time oiling to the heads from a point earlier in the oil system. My experience agree's with the idea that keeping as much oil in the system for the rods/mains will do nothing but good things, and I consider all of those mods to be steps in that direction.
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Remember the cross over mod was for engines using hydraulic lifters not solids.
Something I have found is that a step drill bit was used on the main to lifter galley by the factory on 340 blocks.
So be sure to run a drill bit thru there to open up the end of the passage.
As for whether you want to use the crossover as designed and created by Larry Atherton.

If you don't want to use it don't do it but there are those of us that know it works.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Remember the cross over mod was for engines using hydraulic lifters not solids.
Something I have found is that a step drill bit was used on the main to lifter galley by the factory on 340 blocks.
So be sure to run a drill bit thru there to open up the end of the passage.
As for whether you want to use the crossover as designed and created by Larry Atherton.

If you don't want to use it don't do it but there are those of us that know it works.
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I'm running solid rollers, so that was certainly a factor. I'm intentionally not being confrontational about the topic, as I said, in the end we have all the info and anecdotal evidence in front of us, each person has to do with that what they want.

I drilled out every oil passage, blended corners, opened up the pump, etc. I did what I could that made sense inside my bubble of experience, in conjunction with the parts I was using.
 
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I am running a solid roller...but it's an R3 block with W7 heads and uses pushrod oiling. So the galleys must be oiled up. Getting oil the left galley by means of the main web seems kinda shaky to me...so I'll use a crossover tube.
 
gregcon said:
I am running a solid roller...but it's an R3 block with W7 heads and uses pushrod oiling. So the galleys must be oiled up. Getting oil the left galley by means of the main web seems kinda shaky to me...so I'll use a crossover tube.
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Doesn’t that R3 have priority main oiling? You shouldn’t need a cross over tube with that.
 
No, it oils pretty much the same as a normal SB. The mains are fed off the lifter galley. The galley is not feeding the lifters, though, unless you drill it to do so (as I have).

Lifter bore drill.jpg
 
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