Anybody go from performer to an rpm air gap

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SAM67

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I currently have a 30 over 360, flat top pistons that are 50 in the hole, thin head gaskets, a comp 284xe 507/513 i believe cam that's 3 degrees advanced, stock 1.88 360 j heads, and a performer intake with a spacer plate. 750 dp 3800 conv, 430 gear. Car has a nasty "hole shot" been a 8.07 spinning but with a low mph. I was wondering if changing the intake would help the car in the higher rpms? Any suggestions? It's a strip/ little street car.
 
Best dual plane intake on the market. I have one on my 340
 
I think it'll help you. The performer is a small port intake that's pretty well out of steam by 5000 rpm where-as the Performer RPM is a large port intake that'll closely match the 360 heads ports and easily pulls to 6k. You may not need the spacer with the RPM. Since you got it you can always try it both ways.
 
I don't think you will tell any difference between the 2 intakes with your particular set up..... This is just my opinion. You might think about going to a Single Plane.
 
SAM67 said:
I currently have a 30 over 360, flat top pistons that are 50 in the hole, thin head gaskets, a comp 284xe 507/513 i believe cam that's 3 degrees advanced, stock 1.88 360 j heads, and a performer intake with a spacer plate. 750 dp 3800 conv, 430 gear. Car has a nasty "hole shot" been a 8.07 spinning but with a low mph. I was wondering if changing the intake would help the car in the higher rpms? Any suggestions? It's a strip/ little street car.
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I think the Rpm should give you a big difference upstairs considering your gear and converter. If it was me, even with the lower compression, i'd even consider a M1 single plane for what your doing.
 
I have 002/003 ss springs and mt 275 drag radials and 90/10s on front. What left is their to do? The track wasn't that great when I ran it. 73 dart sport.
 
I answered your question about high rpm power.........while suspension/setup can help, just curious what your mph is?
 
At the very least gasket match the performer I've read it's worth 20hp on a hot engine
 
SAM67 said:
I have 002/003 ss springs and mt 275 drag radials and 90/10s on front. What left is their to do? The track wasn't that great when I ran it. 73 dart sport.
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do you have long enough shocks in the rear....SS spring want long shocks..
 
I have the mopar long shocks, I haven't ran it this year yet. The rear shackle angle was pretty much straight up and down so last weekend I made a 1 1/2 in ext for rear bracket to get the angle about where it should be. If that doesn't work ima try slicks and I wanna say it was right at 80 most cars for that et here run 85ish I think.
 
SAM67 said:
I have the mopar long shocks, I haven't ran it this year yet. The rear shackle angle was pretty much straight up and down so last weekend I made a 1 1/2 in ext for rear bracket to get the angle about where it should be. If that doesn't work ima try slicks and I wanna say it was right at 80 most cars for that et here run 85ish I think.
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same as what i did on the spacers
 
If you've gone 8.07 @ 80ish....you're runnin pretty darn good. While you may be spinning some, it cant be a lot running those times x mph, unless the spin is so much that it's hurting the run overall. That et is more along the lines of 83/84mph. Is there room for improvement.....absolutely.
 
273 said:
At the very least gasket match the performer I've read it's worth 20hp on a hot engine
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I just gasket matched the heads (973 smog head) for my 318 to a felpro 1243 intake gasket which are for the 318 2bbl heads. Gasket openings are 1.05" x 2.08". These gaskets match perfect to the Performer 318/360 without gasket matching.
Hopefully I'll pick up a little on the 318 by doing this.:burnout:
 

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I notice that you're presently using a square-bore double pumper carb on a spread-bore Performer intake, so I guess you must be using an adapter plate. I'm no expert on the subject, but I've never liked adapter plates. I've always felt they cause poor fuel distribution and rough running. Wouldn't it be easier to try a spread-bore carb on the Performer intake before going to the trouble of switching to the Performer RPM?
 
MOPARoldtimer said:
I notice that you're presently using a square-bore double pumper carb on a spread-bore Performer intake, so I guess you must be using an adapter plate. I'm no expert on the subject, but I've never liked adapter plates. I've always felt they cause poor fuel distribution and rough running. Wouldn't it be easier to try a spread-bore carb on the Performer intake before going to the trouble of switching to the Performer RPM?
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you only need that small thin metal plate to seal the holley carb on the performer..

the performancer has bolt pattern for both carbs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2732/overview/
 
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...dyno_testing_small_block_intakes/viewall.html

the old intake manifold shoot out....has a performer and air gap...


Edelbrock No. 2176
Type: Two-plane four-barrel
Rated rpm range: Idle to 5,500
Max hp: 451.2 at 6,000 rpm
Max torque: 452.0 at 4,100 rpm
Average hp 3,000-6,300 rpm: 375.9 hp
Average torque: 426.7 lb-ft



Edelbrock AirGap No. 7576
Type: Two-plane four-barrel
Rated rpm range: 1,500-6,500-plus
Max hp: 475.4 at 6,200 rpm
Max torque: 469.8 at 4,100 rpm
Average hp 3,100-6,200 rpm: 391.6 hp
Average torque: 443.7 lb-ft
 
Nice,like Rick said.Now,time for the big enchilada.Narrow the valve guide bosses,work the bowl,to 88% of valve diameter. Watch ,how hard it pulls,from there.
 
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