Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

-
Tuff to say if it would work on a dart but the 275s have never rubbed on my duster. I'm thinking they are 8s I bought them as a package with 245s I later bought another pair and put the 275 drag radials on them.
 
so i figured i would end my segment. to get the american muscle fr500's with 245/40/18 on the front and 255/45/18 on the back to fit

for the front on drdiff viper disks

i had to turn the inner diameter of the wheel out to 2.65 in and turn the hub down to the same diameter then i ran a 5/8in baer spacer to clear my rms upper control arms on suspension travel.

for the rear with the mopar .75in spring relocation kit and drdiff axles

i just had to run a 1/4in spacer to get the wheel to sit flat on the axle face. there is some slight rubbing on the inner wheel well on extreme turns and when one of the front wheels hits a dip just perfectly. ill be changing them out for a 1/2in spacer later.
 
So............ lemme' drag this to the top for the pro's to answer.

I am looking at a pair of "ZR500" wheels.

Info I have been given: Stamped on wheel is this 46 17 05 210

I have gone to a site that sells these and the number doesnt match up to any of the offered wheels.

The 46 seems to be the "style" of wheel.
The 17 is obviously the wheel dia.
Beyond that.... I got nothin!

What I can see from the site is that in a 17" wheel they offer only 2 wheels.
Since I have a picture and the wheels I may buy have a "lip" I can only assume it is the wider of the two offered.

Specs at that point are as follows.

Product ID : 46171652
SIZE: 17x10.5 OFFSET: +27 millimeters BACKSPACE: 6.82 inch...

The backspace is pretty deep.

So the question is.............. Will they fit with a spring relocation kit and a spacer?

Lots of tried and tested experience here so I am hoping the answer might be here.
Thanks guys!

Wracks
Pauly
You guys have any input?
 
Look, I've said this before............I REALLY don't like to see guys "make wheels fit" by offsetting springs. Offsetting leafs belongs in one place..........the dragstrip

As you move the springs in, it increases car body roll in corners. You could in theory help this some with a rear (anti) sway bar
 
Are you trying to run a stock width housing or are you going to narrow something to work?
 
Another good point. Some guys are running "B" rear axles, and not all "A" axles are the same width.
 
I am planning to run an 8.8 with disc brakes and all. The difference is 1/2" wider than the A body 8-3/4 I have currently if I remember correctly.

As for the narrowing of the spring location.... excellent point, and aside from a decent sway bar nothing will change the effects you speak of. I am aware of this.

To give a general idea as to the future set up...
8.8 swap (for the disc brakes, limited slip, big bolt pattern,and cheap price that accompanies those items)
Spring relocation kit
7/8" rear sway bar (currently installed)
Possibly a watts link as well.
 
James, looking back I see you are running an 8.8?!?!?! Just searched your posts... No build pics or thread? :( Have a stash of pics of the swap by chance? Id love to see what ya did!
 
Nah no pics. I also ran the a body 8 1/4 with 1" spacers, b body 8 3/4, before the 8.8.I kind of wish I kept the 8 3/4. I bought some wider tires and rims and am now thinking of building a dana.
 
The terminology on "offsetting" the springs can be deceiving. A 3" spring relocation is one thing, that can have a pretty big effect on body roll. But, you can also offset the springs with a 1/2" hanger and shackle kit, which increases tire clearance quite a bit without really having a big effect on the body roll. Certainly nothing that can't be dealt with using an adjustable rear sway bar, especially since the need for a rear sway bar on these cars is pretty minimal to begin with.

I call the 3" spring relocation a "relocation" and not an offset, that way I can call the 1/2" hanger/shackle offset an "offset" and not confuse it with a relocation. Clear as mud. :D

I don't see a problem at all using a 1/2" offset. And, if you aren't planning on mini-tubbing, the 1/2" offset gets you as much room as you're going to get with the stock wheelhouses anyway. Also, keep in mind that Dr Diff calls his hanger/shackle kit a 1/2" offset, while Mopar Performance calls their A-body hanger/shackle kit a 3/4" offset. Both are actually about a 1/2", that's really all the room there is. But even with a 3" relocation you can deal with the effects of moving the springs. Stiffer springs or a larger sway bar can both help deal with that roll, and of course if you're running tires wide enough to need a mini-tub your suspension needs are going to be totally different anyway.

I run a 1/2" hanger/shackle offset on my Duster with a 68-70 B body rear and 18x10" rims with a 7" backspace (38mm offset) and 295/35/18's. On a Dart though a 1/2" offset will only get you to a 275 wide tire, you need the full 3" relocation and min-tub to go bigger than that.
 
4mulaSvaliant said:
I am planning to run an 8.8 with disc brakes and all. The difference is 1/2" wider than the A body 8-3/4 I have currently if I remember correctly.

As for the narrowing of the spring location.... excellent point, and aside from a decent sway bar nothing will change the effects you speak of. I am aware of this.

To give a general idea as to the future set up...
8.8 swap (for the disc brakes, limited slip, big bolt pattern,and cheap price that accompanies those items)
Spring relocation kit
7/8" rear sway bar (currently installed)
Possibly a watts link as well.
Click to expand...

There are a few pics in my build thread of the 8.8 cut and weld if they will help
 
JR... Thanks man! Ill be checking it out!

Thanks everyone for the specs! Awesome info to have when I am about to change this much back there!
Well I did a little looking and found that the 8.8 width (mounting surfaces) are 59.5" wide.

According to a few charts... the A-body 8-3/4 is 55.56" (That doesnt seem right) I thought it was 57.5" for the a body 8-3/4

Anyhow... This helps with the wheels I am considering.

Wheel specs are as follows

FR500 style
SIZE: 17x10.5 OFFSET: +27 millimeters BACKSPACE: 6.82 inch

If the numbers are correct for the A-body specs, and it seems to be the consensus that about a 4.75 backspace (for the rear of car) is best...

Then the added width of 2" inches to each side sets me right back in the same ball park with only about 1/8" to figure out where it is...

4.75 Ideal BS (w/ 8-3/4)
+ 2" that Ill gain at each side with the 8.8 swap
= 6.75
BS on these wheels being 6.82... Im not far off at all!

This doesnt however address the outer edge of the wheel and possible contact with the fender well edge.

Does this make any sense? Hahaha...

A-body 8-3/4
I---------O---------I
< 55.56" >


Exploder 8.8
I----------O----------I
< 59.5" >
 
No it's tight, but it works fine. Almost 10,000 miles on it. I was driving it a lot for a while but stopped.
 
4mulaSvaliant, I think the fun part will be the front. I have a set of Bullitt wheels and I opened then up to fit the hubs. They go on to the hub just fine. But the grease zerk hits the inner side of the rim and when you turn it lock to lock the rim hits the A-Arm. I'm regretting getting them.
 
If it's just the fitting hitting, you can grease it then pull the grease fitting and plug it with a short 1/4"-28 bolt.
 
If it's just the fitting hitting, you can grease it then pull the grease fitting and plug it with a short 1/4" bolt.
 
I think you're on the right track - the same way you're calculating the fit of the larger BS on the wider axle, you can also use the "front space" plus the axle width to see how the whole assembly will fit inside the wheel wells. You can gain an easy 1/2" per side by massaging the inner quarter panel a bit near the top of the tire.

If you aren't committed to 17's, you can probably solve some of the interference issues (UBJ zerk and OTRE) by going with 18's instead. I don't think there's a big weight penalty, and the 18" tire selection is great.

Clair


4mulaSvaliant said:
JR... Thanks man! Ill be checking it out!

Thanks everyone for the specs! Awesome info to have when I am about to change this much back there!
Well I did a little looking and found that the 8.8 width (mounting surfaces) are 59.5" wide.

According to a few charts... the A-body 8-3/4 is 55.56" (That doesnt seem right) I thought it was 57.5" for the a body 8-3/4

Anyhow... This helps with the wheels I am considering.

Wheel specs are as follows

FR500 style
SIZE: 17x10.5 OFFSET: +27 millimeters BACKSPACE: 6.82 inch

If the numbers are correct for the A-body specs, and it seems to be the consensus that about a 4.75 backspace (for the rear of car) is best...

Then the added width of 2" inches to each side sets me right back in the same ball park with only about 1/8" to figure out where it is...

4.75 Ideal BS (w/ 8-3/4)
+ 2" that Ill gain at each side with the 8.8 swap
= 6.75
BS on these wheels being 6.82... Im not far off at all!

This doesnt however address the outer edge of the wheel and possible contact with the fender well edge.

Does this make any sense? Hahaha...

A-body 8-3/4
I---------O---------I
< 55.56" >


Exploder 8.8
I----------O----------I
< 59.5" >
Click to expand...
 
No problem, I have more pics on the computer I can email if needed. The stock width of an A-Body is 57.5", there is a chart going around (originated on Moparts) that list it at 55.56", that is false for the 67-76 A-bodies.
Cutting down an 8.8 from an explorer puts you at 56.5" wide. If you google search ford axle codes you can tell what gear ratio the rear will have and if it is an open, limited slip, or locker rear by looking at the tag on the drivers side door jam.
 
clair.davis said:
I think you're on the right track - the same way you're calculating the fit of the larger BS on the wider axle, you can also use the "front space" plus the axle width to see how the whole assembly will fit inside the wheel wells. You can gain an easy 1/2" per side by massaging the inner quarter panel a bit near the top of the tire.

If you aren't committed to 17's, you can probably solve some of the interference issues (UBJ zerk and OTRE) by going with 18's instead. I don't think there's a big weight penalty, and the 18" tire selection is great.

Clair
Click to expand...

THIS ^^^^^, exactly why I went 18's, tire choices. Im seriously considering a set of 19"s to run throw away tires on because even they are cheaper in the fat sizes than 18's were just 2 years ago.
 
So it appears that the 17s are enough of a problem regarding the diameter, to maybe no bother with. The biggest reason I was going to jump on these was because of style and I cant beat the price. But if they may be more of a headache than they are worth, Ill probably just pass and buy others later.
As it is, this is just 2 wheels. Id have to buy the fronts new anyhow. If thats the case, Id almost rather just order the correct BS right out of the gate than to play with these like this...


JR..... Id love to see anything you have regarding the 8.8 swap. I have done rear swaps before, but its always nice to see potential issues! :)
 
I wouldn't necessarily pass on the 17's just because of the hub register and zerk. The 18" RPF1's on my Duster have a dropped center, so I still have to run a low profile zerk fitting on the upper ball joint. And, there's more aftermarket rims that won't fit over than hub on these cars than will. I also had to have the hub register on my RPF1's opened up at the machine shop to fit over the aluminum hub for Dr. Diff's 13" brake kit, and that hub is smaller than the stock rotors.

A lot of the aftermarket rims have a 73.1mm hub register, which is big enough to clear the hub, but then they neck down for a smaller wheel cap. Since a lot of designs don't have a really thick wheel center, the hub has to come all the way through the wheel. At least that's what I found with both my RPF1's and the Rota P45's I bought.
 
I think the 17 is a good size. Old cars start looking kind of funky with anything bigger.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top