Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

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Yes,on the front the grease cap will stick out.(the retaining lip for the center cap doesn't clear the grease cap) I was planning to make an aluminium center & connect it to my grease cap.The rear push in muscle motors cheap plastic centers worked fine on the rear.
 
i thought someone was making aluminum ones that clear but im not finding them anywhere.
 
I make aluminum center caps for the Bullitt rims. They are dished on the inside to clear the Mopar dust cap. I design all of my 13 inch brake kits for the Bullitt rim.
 
will those work with the 11.75" kit andy? also, do you know if the 18" cobra R centers are the same size as the bullits?
i didn't see them on your site, just the part# and price. got a pic?
sorry for all the questions, but you're the man, man!

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i thought it was you making them andy but wasnt sure. so can you give a little more info about them? how deep are they, if i turn down the rotor to clear the rim, will your caps work? or do i need to run the spacer to keep the grease cap from protruding too far. right now im not going for big breaks, im setting the car up as a driver that will eventually handle decent. drivetrain is all stock stuff, no big power house.
 
There are some pictures on the website in the gallery section but I don't show them in the product side. The website is old and very outdated but I'm so busy selling parts I never get around to updating the site. Here is what the centers look like on a Bullitt rim. They are designed for the Bullitt rim only. They may or may not work on any other rim, it would just be luck if they do work on anything else. The Ford engineers changed that center cap on almost every rim design. Probably needed to justify their jobs so they just kept redesigning that little plastic cap.

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Here is another shot. Just have to look close to see the aluminum center cap on the Bullitt rim that is mounted up on the car.

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17x9 Cobra R rims on our '73 Duster. We are planning on racing it in the Leadfoot Rally at the end of July. Car will be drag raced, road raced, oval track raced, and the final competition is a rally from Pueblo, CO to Las Vegas, NV. 8)

Planning on using a B-body 8.75" out back to get them to fit.

lfr_duster_001.jpg


lfr_duster_002.jpg
 
you running stock suspension i assume? they look great by the way! whats up with the leadfoot rally deal?
 
Hi wracks,

Yep, stock suspension, as that's what the rules dictate. Car has a /6 now, but will get one of 3 small blocks I have in my storage unit. I'll swap in some v8 torsion bars that I have on hand.

I might need to pick your brain a little bit to see what else I can do to get this thing to turn on a road course!

More info on the Leadfoot Rally:

www.leadfootrally.com
 
Duster346 said:
Hi wracks,

Yep, stock suspension, as that's what the rules dictate. Car has a /6 now, but will get one of 3 small blocks I have in my storage unit. I'll swap in some v8 torsion bars that I have on hand.

I might need to pick your brain a little bit to see what else I can do to get this thing to turn on a road course!

More info on the Leadfoot Rally:

www.leadfootrally.com
Click to expand...

i was checking the link out. man,that sounds fun as hell!! oh,and pick away,it won't take long! lol!
 
Duster346 said:
Hi wracks,

Yep, stock suspension, as that's what the rules dictate. Car has a /6 now, but will get one of 3 small blocks I have in my storage unit. I'll swap in some v8 torsion bars that I have on hand.

I might need to pick your brain a little bit to see what else I can do to get this thing to turn on a road course!

More info on the Leadfoot Rally:

www.leadfootrally.com
Click to expand...

Some ideas

-1.14 www.firmfeel.com torsion bars
-1/8 hellwig front sway bar
-hellwig adjustable rear sway bar
-tubular upper control arms www.firmfeel.com
-weld a couple of 1"x2" straps across the bottom of the lower control arm.
-gusset k member
-poly strut rod with rear bushing and sleeve shaved/cut 3/16"
-qa1 adj shocks

Mods:
-baffle around oil pan pickup. Accusump. Or a Armando's oil pan
-remote oil breather
-brake ducts
-big front air dam

Look at these pictures here: http://www.mrmopar.com/SpringFling2007/WillowSprings/
 
that sounds like alot of fun but its gonna be tough to keep total cost below 2500.00. hell ive got that much into my front suspension and its not even on the car yet and i still don't have shocks or sway bars. good luck tho.
 
At this point I have nothing to add beyond ANOTHER white Valiant 100 sedan with a DS fender that doesn't match...

I'm looking at potentially going to 18's as well, to avoid converting the OTRE's to Heim joints - if there's enough clearance. Found out the hard way that not all wheels are made the same, but with the right wheels, a 18x9 should fit easy on all 4 corners, along with a 275-series tire.

Carry on, I'm subscribed now...

Clair

In_The_Park2-PS-1024.jpg


In_The_Park2-PSR-640.JPG
 
now THATS freaky !!
what are the odds, complete with primered lf fender and wrong colored hood!!
damn fine car you have there c. davis lol

Manila Feb 09 211_1.JPG
 
Tell me about it! When I saw the first photo of your car in this thread, I thought - hey, that's my car... wait a minute, I don't have those wheels on my car! Nice ride you've got there, BTW. I'm kind of surprised those "R" wheels fit as well as they do, I really like them but always passed because I thought they'd rub.

FWIW, my combo is:

Front
73+ K-member, LCA's, UCA's & spindles (drum type for AndyF's Viper caliper kit)
11.75 cop rotors, afore-mentioned Viper calipers
1" ADDCO sway bar
1.14" t-bars, poly everywhere
Rear
ESPO 6-leaf HD repro springs at stock ride height
AndyF's adjustable front hanger (lowered position)
Prothane adjustable rear hanger (zero drop)
65-67 B-body rear axle w/74 Dart 10x2.5" drums

Wheels are 95 Cobra 17x8" +5.72" wheels (hub bores opened to Mopar hub-centric), with no spacers front or rear. Shocks are QA1 Stocker Star aluminum adjustables, front & rear, too.

Tires are 245/45-17 Kumho MX street/autoX stickies

If I can't sort out some decent 18" wheels with the offset I need, I'm about 90% convinced that I'm just going to run 275/40's on my 17's front and rear - looks like it will fit just fine:
Rear_275-40-17-04.JPG


275-40-Straight-02.JPG


Clair
 
Autoxcuda, thank you for the suggestions kind sir!

Unfortunately, based on the $2500 limit (car and modifications), we won't be able to go over board on some of the high dollar suspension stuff. I'd sure like too, though, as this will be my first attempt at getting one of these A bodies to turn!

I'll start another thread on the build-up of this car, so I won't keep hi-jacking this one.

I did find it odd though, the 17x9 would NOT clear the outer tie rod end on TWO other cars I checked them on. One was a '74 duster, and the other a '71 with 74 Duster disc brakes. The wheels slid right on this '73, without interfering with the outer tie rod end (I'm not sure as to why). I'll probably get a thin spacer (billet aluminum) as cheap insurance beacuse it is still pretty close too touching.

Thanks again yall.

Chris
 
Chris,
A 9" wheel won't fit my Valiant (74 front end) either, at least if it's got enough backspace to fit under the fenders. FWIW, my car has the same front end components as a friend's 68 Valiant, and he had to use a 1/8" spacer to fit *8"* Bullits, while my 8" Cobras have about 1/8" clear. Although I have no hard proof, I strongly suspect that some LBJ's are designed with different offsets to the arm end, OR perhaps have the OTRE stud hole machined in a slightly different location. There may also be some wiggle room in OTRE designs, but I haven't checked that at all. Don't count out anything when it comes to aftermarket parts.

I think some Heim joint OTRE's could be fabbed up for a little over $100-150, depending on parts, but that money is probably better spent elsewhere. Ditto on 9" vs. 8" wheels, unless you've already got the 9" units. The 8's are going to be the cheap parts 99% of the time, and aggressive 245 tires can have nearly as much rubber on the ground as a 275... the 245/45 Kumho MX's I have are about 1/2" narrower through the tread than the 275/40 Goodyear Eagle F1's I tested. A good sticky 245 on an 8" wheel may just run away from a cruddy 275 on a 9, even after all the work & $$$ you spent to make it fit.

Clair
 
clair.davis said:
Chris,
A 9" wheel won't fit my Valiant (74 front end) either, at least if it's got enough backspace to fit under the fenders. FWIW, my car has the same front end components as a friend's 68 Valiant, and he had to use a 1/8" spacer to fit *8"* Bullits, while my 8" Cobras have about 1/8" clear. Although I have no hard proof, I strongly suspect that some LBJ's are designed with different offsets to the arm end, OR perhaps have the OTRE stud hole machined in a slightly different location. There may also be some wiggle room in OTRE designs, but I haven't checked that at all. Don't count out anything when it comes to aftermarket parts.
Click to expand...

One thing I read in there was that you were running a 73-76 big bearing drum spindle. Maybe different spindles change things.

Duster346, what spindle was on that 71 and 74 that didn't work ?


I think some Heim joint OTRE's could be fabbed up for a little over $100-150, depending on parts, but that money is probably better spent elsewhere. Ditto on 9" vs. 8" wheels, unless you've already got the 9" units. The 8's are going to be the cheap parts 99% of the time, and aggressive 245 tires can have nearly as much rubber on the ground as a 275... the 245/45 Kumho MX's I have are about 1/2" narrower through the tread than the 275/40 Goodyear Eagle F1's I tested. A good sticky 245 on an 8" wheel may just run away from a cruddy 275 on a 9, even after all the work & $$$ you spent to make it fit.

Clair
Click to expand...


Yea, but what if you ran that same sticky tire but in a 275/40/17 size?
 
maybe i've just been lucky. as earlier posted, the only clearance issue i had was with the grease fitting on my ucas. i've have non adjustable uca's on the car for years. aside from the grease fitting the clearance was virtually the same on 17s and 18s.
having said that, i'm prepping to put the viper caliper/cordoba rotors that uses drum brake spindles, ff tie rods and struts.
that could be a game changer but i'm confident it'll be ok.

a quick shout out to dick at firm feel and andy f.
the guys live and breathe a-bodies and our hobby would be in deep kim-chee without them.
ok, i've done enough cinco de drinko, g'nite
 
autoxcuda said:
One thing I read in there was that you were running a 73-76 big bearing drum spindle. Maybe different spindles change things.

Duster346, what spindle was on that 71 and 74 that didn't work ?
Click to expand...

Only AndyF would know FOR SURE, but I don't think the drum spindle changes anything because the bearing dimensions are identical to allow using the 73+ rotors. That said, I don't think I compared the two side by side when I did my swap, but I did run the 17's before the Viper swap and didn't note any clearance issues. Going to a short zerk fitting was all I needed to clear the UCA/UBJ, and the OTRE relationship didn't change. Makes sense, due to the same LBJ being used on each system. Just speculating, but I think the 73+ drum cars were still SBP, so the Cobra wheel woudln't swap.

autoxcuda said:
Yea, but what if you ran that same sticky tire but in a 275/40/17 size?
Click to expand...

Not sure, but I'm guessing it would be better - sounds like a good project. How much, I don't know. I typically believe you should stuff as much tire under your car as will fit and function, but that may not mean going to larger wheels. Some of the stock-class GM F-body autoXers do pretty well pinching a 275/40 on to an 8" wheel...

Clair
 
i finally got fed up with the whole thing and ordered new 8" bullitt's for the front of my duster yesterday. i am sure you guys remember all my replies,but short story is,with the spacers(10mm) and one washer,my tires were eating the fenders when i turned. i know it sounds hokey putting a washer behind the wheel,but it got the rim off the otre! so the total spacing was probably around 11 1/2 -12 mm thick. i wondered also since the clearance was on the otre,what about taking the rim to machine shop and cut the face of the lip where it contacts the otre. a little extreme,but i don't think you would give up the integrity of the wheel.
clair,keep us posted on the viper brake setup. i talked to andy about that deal,but i have alot of other stuff going on. some of the guys feel the factory fronts with big drums are enough,but i want a little more! i think i am going at least to do disk rear of some sort,not sure which setup yet though.
 
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