Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

-
I think the issue maybe that the rotor hat hieghts are all different.I currently run 10 3/4" rotors & 3/8" spacers with 17x8" bullitts. I've recently purchased 11 3/4" rotors which from my measurements are about 3/8" taller hat & i'm hoping will allow me to eliminate the spacer. I hope to install these soon so I will post what my outcome is.I think all rotors are not made equal which is why some people have spacers & some don't. Wracks do you have 10 3/4" rotors or 11 3/4"?

Ted
 
Hmmm. I don't think I ever tried the 10-7/8" rotors with the 17" wheels, but had upgraded to the 11-3/4" rotors by then. I guess I had done that swap when still running the 15x6.5 steelies and dog dish caps, but I've slept too many times since then. I would be interested to see what the difference in the rotor hat height(s) might be, as there isn't a lot of room to play with my setup - like 1/4" clear between the OTRE and the Cobra wheel inner rim.
otre_clearance_03.jpg

The only other data point I have is a 68 Valiant with (at the time) the same brake rotors and calipers with similar but not identical wheels (bullitt's for him, Cobras for me). His OTRE hit the wheel, mine didn't. A 1/8" spacer made it work for him. Strange.

On AndyF's Viper caliper upgrade, I have the early one that requires the drum-brake spindle. IIRC, the late-model kit uses the disk spindle and a radial-mount caliper from the latest generation Viper. If I had it to do all over again, I would go radial mount and the requisite 13" rotors. For the time being, the kit I have is awesome and works like gang busters. The newer one just didn't exist when I did my upgrade.

Clair
 
Clair, I have a kit that is a 13 inch upgrade just for guys like you who have already invested in the earlier calipers. Basically just new hubs, 13 inch rotors and caliper brackets. You don't even need to bleed the brakes.

Now one issue is that the new kit moves the hub face outboard a bit so that people can run the 17x8 Mustang rims with 5.72 backspace. Since you're already running those rims without any clearance problems tells me that on your car, my kit might move the rims too far outboard. I can't explain why that is the case but it seems like it would be. On your car you might need 6 inches or maybe even a little more of backspace.

Here is a picture of the 13 inch rotors with the early calipers.
Dsc_0805_480.jpg
 
i just picked up a set of 11 3/4" rotors, they were hard to find around here. best i could do was order them from advanced auto. rock auto has them but i wanted them this week. 5 places told me they couldnt even get them. i started to think i was making a bonehead move wanting to run those. anyway, i just picked them up and i opened the box in the store to take some measurements to be sure i got what i wanted, i thought as soon as i opend the box, the rotor hat looks much taller on these, wtf? hmmm i wondered if it would help. so does that make the track width wider? im going outside as soon as i get off the computer to see how they fit my 8" bullits. we used no spacer on the 10 3/4 but turned down the end of the rotor to clear the rim. i went with 245s all around, i didnt want to get into cutting the front fenders and i wanted all 4 tires the same size. oh as for the poly strut rod bushing for an upgrade, i have to argue that one. i think it is a funky produst. it really binds the suspension movement. i have them on my 69, i used to have slant bars for transfer in it as it was a street strip big block car i could not even bounce the front end. now on the 67 i was working on, i had rubebr strut rods, the car was all mocked up with a big block, i could bounce that car like you would expect. it was working th eway i wanted for the strip. i guess it could help stiffen things up if you are running lighter t bars, but i really feel they bind the front end.
 
Clair, if you do ever want to upgrade to the 13 inch kit and stay with the early calipers just drop me a line. If you think the hub placement is exactly correct on your car I could build custom hubs to keep the mounting surface in the stock location. From what I can tell by measuring various cars I think the hub surface should move outboard about 3/8 from the stock location in order to run both 17x8 and 17x9 Mustang rims but I'm always interested in more data. (as long as the data comes from guys like you who actually document things with pictures and measurements!)
 
oh yeah, the 5.72 backspace 17x8" bullits clear everything once the end of the rotor was turned down with no spacer used on the 74 duster.
 
That's interesting, Andy, I didn't realize you were working on that kit. Initially, I had planned on swapping my Vipers over to the Fury for an invisible upgrade, and getting the full-meal-deal 13" set for Elvira, but I may have to rethink that now. I don't know if I *NEED* 13" rotors, since my primary racing duties will be autoX, but they certainly fill a 17 or 18" wheel better. Important to the Pro Parking crowd, you know.

Just ballparking, but IIRC the ideal wheel for me would be a 18x9 with about 6.4" BS. That would center the wheel pretty well back and front, and should clear the OTRE without going to Heims. I haven't found (a cheap) one to test with yet, though, and it's not a real big priority until I wear out my Kumhos - not likely to happen soon at 25 miles/yr....

Clair
 
I'm using the 17x9 with 5.94 backspace (I think).

Jamesdart, mind posting the advance auto part number for the taller rotor?

Thanks in advance,

Chris
 
I think the issue maybe that the rotor hat hieghts are all different.I currently run 10 3/4" rotors & 3/8" spacers with 17x8" bullitts. I've recently purchased 11 3/4" rotors which from my measurements are about 3/8" taller hat & i'm hoping will allow me to eliminate the spacer. I hope to install these soon so I will post what my outcome is.I think all rotors are not made equal which is why some people have spacers & some don't. Wracks do you have 10 3/4" rotors or 11 3/4"?

Ted

lol! i am really not sure! i will have to go out to the shop and measure now! i talked to andyf a weeks ago about the brake conversion stuff,but i am not sure what the hell i am going to do! i think i am going with rear disk first and then worry about the front bigger ones.
clair,i bet your cobra wheels are 18's right? if i had 18's the otre would be inside the wheel instead of hitting the lip of the wheel. this is just what i have gathered with my problem. if i would have known about all this crap,i would have just went with 18's! my 17x8 front wheels/tires come in tomorrow,so we'll see. tune in tomorrow night! lol!
 
best i can measure they are 10 3/4. is it worth going up to the 1" bigger rotor? i know surface area is everything,but what is it going to cost me to pick up a damn inch?!
 
best i can measure they are 10 3/4. is it worth going up to the 1" bigger rotor? i know surface area is everything,but what is it going to cost me to pick up a damn inch?!

Its not the surface area thats the big difference, its the diameter. The 11 3/4" rotors use the same calipers, so the pad area is the same. There is a slightly larger overall area (as the pad sweeps out a larger area due to the increased diameter), but the biggest change is the diameter. For a 10 7/8" rotor your radius is 5.4375, for a 11.75 its 5.875. Now the pads are what, 2" wide? Figure 1" less to the center of the brake pad. So, on average, instead of multiplying your braking force by 4.4375 your multiplying it by 4.875. So, you're looking at a 9.85% increase in braking force.

~10% increase in braking force! And of course, as you mentioned, you have a larger surface area for cooling. You'd think the larger rotors would weigh more too, but I found my drilled/slotted eBay rotors to weigh almost the same as my 10 7/8" stockers.

As for cost, its not that bad for a stock setup. If you use the 11 3/4" caliper adaptors from a later car they can be found on eBay in the ~$100 range usually. And then its just the rotors, I paid $140 for mine, shipped...

This is of course provided you have the '73 up style spindles. If not, you'll need those too. And this is using stock calipers, not aftermarket ones, which would obviously increase your price tag. Upgrading my Challenger to 11 3/4" brakes made a noticeable difference in stopping, it completely corrected my stock too-much-rear-brake bias issue that the Chally's had, and then some!
 
ok blu,so what do these adapters look like? i do tool and die work,so could i make them? and do you remember where you got the rotors on ebay? i would like grooved and not drilled if possible.
 
i could look at the box, but i just used 1978 cordoba for the application. its an illusion on the rotor height. when i brought them to my buddys house as soon as he looked at them he asked if the hub was shorter than the 10 3/4 rotors. it sure looks like it, but i put a tape on them side by side and they look the same to me. we did have to turn the end of the 11 3/4" rotor down too. as soon as i catch a break with the weather, they will be on. the rotorpros drilled and slotted rotors on ebay seem like the ideal setup, but i was always told you cant cut drilled and slotted rotors. i dont know how true it is, but that was the deal killer for me. i was told the slots and holes are all deburred and when you cut them, the slots will have sharp edges wearing out your pads faster, and if one side is cut more than the other, you would have unequal breaking. i dont know for sure these are just points i have heard why you dont cut drileld and slotted rotors. for me i had the caliper brackets i nthe garage and the car was already big bolt discs so it wasnt a big outlay of cash. although i am going to need some hoses.
 
wracks, you can get drilled, slotted, or dimpled from rotorpros, or a combination from rotorpros on ebay.
 
cool,thanks. i have '73 disk spindles i assume since it has a '73 k-member. i would like to know what these caliper adapters look like though!
 
so i need to find a late 70 early 80's diplomat to get these from? i would be up for this deal if i can find the mounts and get grooved rotors! it would look a little better with the 17's also. of course i don't want to sound like one of those "pro parking" guys as clair put it! lmao!!
 
good god! we have high jacked the **** out of gary's thread!:cheers:LOL!
 
nah the application for the big rotors and caliper brackets would be a 78 cordoba. i just sent you that to show the caliper brackets.
 
awsome. i guess i have to find a 1978 cordoba! got the pm by the way,thanks!
 
the brackets also came both as pin and slider type calipers.
 
i don't think its possible to hijack this thread. research and information is key to making good choices for your application, and this thread has both in spades. i'm learning more from here than most other topics i've seen and ive been on fabo for years.
this thread rocks!!
 
Sounds like you have all your info already, but here's a pic of the whole set up. Caliper adaptors are in the lower left corner, mine are the pin type to fit the calipers I already had, but the slider type is stronger if you can find them. I got these rotors from rotorpro's on eBay...

IMG_3766copy.jpg


link to the rotors...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-1983-Chrysler-Cordoba-Mopar-11-75-Drilled-Rotors_W0QQitemZ220328885601QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item334c9ffd61#ht_7800wt_1468

And lot of info on the 11 3/4" brakes here, maybe help you fab adaptors. I'd just buy a set though, they're usually ~$100 on eBay...

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html
 
i got my 8's in tonight and got them mounted. i left my 10mm spacers on to give it some more track and it looks good. i want to try one without the spacer one of these days,looks like the wheel would be real close with the rotors i have right now! biggest prroblem i have right now is that the centers won't go on,ugh! i'll have to make some at work soon. i'll get some pics one afternoon.
 
-
Back
Top