Anybody use clutch tamer

-

SlantedDart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Messages
256
Reaction score
268
Location
Michigan
Hey guys. Just installed a clutch tamer in my Dart. I get the concept of it but just wanted to hear any real world experience. Per the website it says launch the car at 2,000 above peak torque.. for me that would be 7400.. my rev limiter is set at 7 haha. Just wondering what a good start is. I know all setups are different but for what it’s worth it’s a gen3 6.4 with a tkx 4.30 gear and drag radials thanks
IMG_3169.jpeg
 
I’ve read the instructions on line but haven’t had the chance to tune with one yet.

I’d call Grant and talk to him about it. He’s done more tuning with his own stuff than probably anyone else.

@weedburner

We will see if Grant checks in.
 
Before tuning the 'tamer, be sure your pedal stop adjustment allows clean hi-rpm shifts, also try to make sure there isn't any obvious chassis setup problems that will compromise your potential. Shock travel and suspension issues are pretty common.

With 4.30 gears and not knowing what clutch you have, I would start with the outer knob 2 turns from zero. From there make some short 1 second clutch dumps off the pedal stop from 4500 or so...
...If the tires spin, turn the inner dial counter-clockwise a couple turns.
...If the engine bogs, turn the inner dial clockwise a couple turns.
Repeat until you find the line between spinning/bogging, then back off the inner dial one turn from there in the counter-clockwise direction. Don't go crazy, no more than 3 consecutive 1sec dumps without giving the clutch some time to cool. On a nose heavy car, a little 150 or so rpm flare on launch will give the car a little time to transfer weight before the tires see the full hit of the clutch.

From there start making full hits while incrementally raising launch rpm. When you have raised launch as far as you are comfortable with and the engine still bogs more than you like, then you can start adjusting the outer knob 2 turns clockwise per hit until the bog goes away.

The above will help you get most of what's available from your current combo as it sits. If you make any adjustments that improve the chassis, those adjustments may in-turn allow you to get more aggressive with your 'tamer settings.

Grant
 
I have had good luck with a Clutch Tamer. As stated above the way it is set up will depend on the clutch. If you have a ton of pp PSI and a sintered bronze material you can get away with a very soft engagement. I set my Tamer to start working on the last 1" of pedal travel. I leave about 1/4" of clearance between the pp fingers and t/out bearing and the rest is sloppy mopar linkage rods.

You have a hydraulic setup that might need more or less travel.

I moved to a 800lb base RAM 10" billet unit with a sintered iron disc and will again use the tamer so I can be lazy and just add and subtract counterweight on the levers if absolutely necessary.
 
I have had good luck with a Clutch Tamer. As stated above the way it is set up will depend on the clutch. If you have a ton of pp PSI and a sintered bronze material you can get away with a very soft engagement. I set my Tamer to start working on the last 1" of pedal travel. I leave about 1/4" of clearance between the pp fingers and t/out bearing and the rest is sloppy mopar linkage rods.

You have a hydraulic setup that might need more or less travel.

I moved to a 800lb base RAM 10" billet unit with a sintered iron disc and will again use the tamer so I can be lazy and just add and subtract counterweight on the levers if absolutely necessary.
Curious on your rear suspension set up? I just put on strange doubles. Had the Caltrac shocks and couldn’t get them tight enough.. I have split monos on my dart also. Forgot to mention in first post the clutch is a Ram 10” power grip. One side organic other side has 6 pucks.
 
Before tuning the 'tamer, be sure your pedal stop adjustment allows clean hi-rpm shifts, also try to make sure there isn't any obvious chassis setup problems that will compromise your potential. Shock travel and suspension issues are pretty common.

With 4.30 gears and not knowing what clutch you have, I would start with the outer knob 2 turns from zero. From there make some short 1 second clutch dumps off the pedal stop from 4500 or so...
...If the tires spin, turn the inner dial counter-clockwise a couple turns.
...If the engine bogs, turn the inner dial clockwise a couple turns.
Repeat until you find the line between spinning/bogging, then back off the inner dial one turn from there in the counter-clockwise direction. Don't go crazy, no more than 3 consecutive 1sec dumps without giving the clutch some time to cool. On a nose heavy car, a little 150 or so rpm flare on launch will give the car a little time to transfer weight before the tires see the full hit of the clutch.

From there start making full hits while incrementally raising launch rpm. When you have raised launch as far as you are comfortable with and the engine still bogs more than you like, then you can start adjusting the outer knob 2 turns clockwise per hit until the bog goes away.

The above will help you get most of what's available from your current combo as it sits. If you make any adjustments that improve the chassis, those adjustments may in-turn allow you to get more aggressive with your 'tamer settings.

Grant
Thanks for the tips!
 
Curious on your rear suspension set up? I just put on strange doubles. Had the Caltrac shocks and couldn’t get them tight enough.. I have split monos on my dart also. Forgot to mention in first post the clutch is a Ram 10” power grip.

I was running the powergrip hd which is the same sintered bronze puck arrangement on both sides of the clutch disc. It likes some rpm at low speeds and to get moving. I also ran the same disc you are running at about 600iish hp in my 3600lb 66 Charger with good results. You will likely wear out the sintered bronze sode pf the disc first becaise that is what slip at instances of higher RPM/tire plant.

I am a big fan of any type of hydraulic shock in place of anything gas charged.

Gas charged shocks SUCK. Just one guy's opinion : D

SA, DA, whatever as long as they are filled with oil instead of gas and adjustable. My GTS has DA's all around and until recently it was running the leaf springs it was born with, some Vikings in the front, QA1 in the rear. From memory my best 60' was a 1.64 on a 235/60/14 m&h (prepped track).

It would usually take me 8-10 hits on Friday t and t to dial the car in for a Sat-Sun no prep deal. Those events are a little more tricky.

The clutch tamer definitely made the car work on that tiny tire with the worlds world's harshest single disc street clutch and (3100 lb) pressure plate.

Probably the best thing you could do is add a nitrous kit. That extra power will really get it up on the tire : D

That and test, test, test. I could make 10+ passes on a t and t night if I had a test plan put together. It's good to make a list of intended changes before going to the track IMO. Stick to the script, take lots of notes.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top