Anyone experienced with Transgo Shift Kit TF2?

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crj1968

crj1968

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So I bought this Transgo shift kit for a 727 Valve Body. (TF SC kit, which is generic across a bunch of applications)

The instructions are kind of weird...although it's understandable as there are different versions of valve bodies. Mine has no "L" hole no "R" hole, no poppet, no bypass...Seems like I must have the most basic VB there is.

All I did was file a notch across the manual valve bore, replace the manual valve with the one in the kit and drill 3 holes in the plate where it instructed.

I know it's hard to say unless you have it all in your hands but for people that have maybe done a bunch of them...does this sound right?
 
This is what I did...
Transgo TF2 setup.

Part 1:
A. Triangle did not drill
B. 1-2 shift did not drill (ball left out)
C. 2-3 shift drilled to .156 or 5/32
D. drilled to .234 0r 15/64

Part 2:
1. Re designed Manual Valve installed
2. Filed Notch halfway through manual bore
3. Drilled passage wall to increase fluid flow
4. Grind TV stem to .281 or 9/32 added yellow spring
5. Installed new shim and spring seat on PR valve, also added the new inner and outer Orange spring.
6. set PR adjustment flush against the inside edge of the spring retainer.
7. Installed new L/R Spring
8. Installed 2-3 restrictor cup
 
Without seeing it all (like you said) that sounds about right.
As long as you changed the springs as instructed.

ALV's way is for much firmer shifts (especially drilling the dam and leaving the ball out of the 2nd gear passage.)

We used to add half of another governor spring in with the original to get the shift timing up at high throttle.
(just screwed the half into the original and was simpler than grinding the gov valve, and could be changed or undone)

You never really know until you run it, and I have pulled a VB 5 times to get things where the person wanted it.
No matter what anyone says it's a trial and error thing unless you just settle for what you end up with.
 
Thanks guys- I guess I'll see what happens. I mean I didnt seem tweak it much so hopefully it will be good to go. Just a basic street cruiser.

I also read somewhere about the kickdown spacer sleeve thing could be put in wrong? That thing happened to fall out on me and I didnt really see how it could be directional?

Thanks again!
 
Ok I see now the plunger sleeve is directional and it goes in the seemingly obvious way...flush to the casing.

One more question. What does the PR valve spring adjuster do? (the one with the shim and lock and new inner outer springs installed)

More spring tension = ?

Thanks!
 
crj1968 said:
Ok I see now the plunger sleeve is directional and it goes in the seemingly obvious way...flush to the casing.

One more question. What does the PR valve spring adjuster do? (the one with the shim and lock and new inner outer springs installed)

More spring tension = ?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Higher line pressure and higher hold pressures on the bands and clutches.
If you just changed shift springs and not line pressure it would throw everything out of sync.
The other way around too, so if you change the working pressure and not the shift and governor springs, that would also throw everything out of sync.
The shift valve springs have to work with (be balanced) with line pressure for them to do what they do at the right times vs driveline speeds.
 
Thanks- makes sense as the kit has you back out the PR all the way with the heavier springs... thanks!!
 
Those kits work great. The 2 to 3 shift is much improved over stock.
 
crj1968 said:
Thanks- makes sense as the kit has you back out the PR all the way with the heavier springs... thanks!!
Click to expand...

LOL. I messed that explanation up a bit by saying the same thing.
What I meant was change the pressure and you have to change the springs.
Change the springs and you have to change the pressure.
 
crj1968 said:
So I bought this Transgo shift kit for a 727 Valve Body. (TF SC kit, which is generic across a bunch of applications)

The instructions are kind of weird...although it's understandable as there are different versions of valve bodies. Mine has no "L" hole no "R" hole, no poppet, no bypass...Seems like I must have the most basic VB there is.

If your valve body is from a 70 or older trans. they didn't have the L or R hole or bypass like the later VB's had
Click to expand...

All I did was file a notch across the manual valve bore, replace the manual valve with the one in the kit and drill 3 holes in the plate where it instructed.

I hope you also replaced the Pressure regulator and throttle pressure springs. If not you may have shift timing issues.
Click to expand...

I know it's hard to say unless you have it all in your hands but for people that have maybe done a bunch of them...does this sound right?
Click to expand...

I've used the TF-2 kit on numerous torqueflite's with real good luck. Their isn't a lot to them but they work. In fact they work much better than some kits that supply a modified spacer plate. I have seen those kits cause shift overlap.
 
Bringing this back from the dead because I have a question...

How do you correctly set the gap between the TV valve plunger and the TV valve cam arm after the TV valve is ground down? On a stock VB plunger is pushed in to stop, tool inserted between the plunger and cam arm and adjusting screw is adjusted.

With the TV valve ground there is no positive stop as the plunger goes in below the VB case and hard stop is non existent??

Edit: Think I figured it out. With the plunger against the spring but not compressing it, measurement between it and the cam arm is .200".
 
Last edited:
threewood said:
Bringing this back from the dead because I have a question...

How do you correctly set the gap between the TV valve plunger and the TV valve cam arm after the TV valve is ground down? On a stock VB plunger is pushed in to stop, tool inserted between the plunger and cam arm and adjusting screw is adjusted.

With the TV valve ground there is no positive stop as the plunger goes in below the VB case and hard stop is non existent??

Edit: Think I figured it out. With the plunger against the spring but not compressing it, measurement between it and the cam arm is .200".
Click to expand...

You push the plunger in like you said, but don't compress the spring. Then you can use a properly sized drill bit as a gauge. I don't recall the size off the top of my head though. It should be in the instructions.
 
mopowers said:
You push the plunger in like you said, but don't compress the spring. Then you can use a properly sized drill bit as a gauge. I don't recall the size off the top of my head though. It should be in the instructions.
Click to expand...

It should be in the instructions but is not. It's the weekend so Transgo is closed or I would have called them. .200" is the number that pops up in searches and it was very close to what the setting was on my TB before adjustment.
 
The TF-SC kit is NOT THE SAME as either the TF-2 or the TF-3. It is not, unless in the hands of a transmission builder ( a real good one with Torqueflites) a performance kit.
 
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