Anyone Here Ever Dyno Their Mild Built Small Block Car?

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Years ago I worked at a shop with a Mustang Dyno. I could spend hours ranting, but won't. 215 is a reasonable number for a mild 360. Mine made 205 or so depending on tune. Best way to look at it is as a baseline. You're at zero, how do you improve from here?
Remember also, that peak hp is great for bragging rights, but you might find the car runs better/quicker with a different setup. You're not testing the engine, but rather the whole car.
 
Post up the dyno sheet for us to see the torque and HP curve.

My bone stock 2bbl 318 on propane made 145hp on a chassis dyno few years ago.
 
My 72 Scamp has a 318, bored .030, 3 angle valve job, 4 barrel edelbrock carb and intake, and .454 lift comp cam. Exhaust manifolds. 7.25 rear with 2.76 gears and a 904 trans with 2800 stall and shift kit. I dyno'd 200 HP and 240 TQ. Ran 15.20s before the trans rebuild and stall. Runs 15.40s after the rebuild (even slower off the line with the stall, need some gears!).
 
Just watched a show they did a /6 worn out stock did 70 rwhp and after the build which was rebuild with basic slap on performance mods and did 130 rwhp.
 
jrc4y4 said:
My 72 Scamp has a 318, bored .030, 3 angle valve job, 4 barrel edelbrock carb and intake, and .454 lift comp cam. Exhaust manifolds. 7.25 rear with 2.76 gears and a 904 trans with 2800 stall and shift kit. I dyno'd 200 HP and 240 TQ. Ran 15.20s before the trans rebuild and stall. Runs 15.40s after the rebuild (even slower off the line with the stall, need some gears!).
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Sometimes with more stall you shoot yourself in the foot.The trick is to match to peak torque not just say you need more stall. Chassis dynos are ok for tuning dont go by the numbers they will all dissapoint you.
 
Yeah joec, I wish I had looked into things more. I was 18 at the time and just trusted the trans guy lol. But I did tell him I planned on 3.91s eventually (will likely end up 3.55s soon) so maybe that had something to do with his decision on the size stall. Wish I had done maybe like a 2200 or so.
 
Don't get caught up in numbers

I'm not gonna say what my 408 made but it was below 400 to the tire and I have a street car 26 in tall tires and 3:91 gear cruise 70mph 3000 rpms so it is t a nasty type of car at all and I run 11:20 117mph with a slipping trans. Just use the dyno to get a/f in a good starting point and go from there my street car kills a lot of high horsepower cars at the track .
Best advice is get it running great then add one thing at a time and see what happens . I call it chipping away
 
I remember on my 68 barracuda the 318 had enough to bark the tires as it shifted to second and it was bone stock...though the tires were pretty narrow. Still you will get loss. However don't forget you multiple your power so even modest gains can do a lot. Just remember all the big HP numbers new car manufacturers use is at the crank so it sounds like you are doing pretty good in my opinion.
 
dyno tests usually don't include water pump,fuel pump,alternator,fan and no exhaust
which can be 30 - 40 horsepower. If is accurate + or - 10 % then your engine that just
dyno'd a whopping 415 hp could be as low as 330.
That's a pretty big Grey area!
 
215 net = 290 gross hp give or take.:glasses7:Just add 75 every time.example...late 70 cars..180 net hp plus 75 =255 hp small block. 300 hp is a really nice motor.
 
Seems about right. I have a 360 (supposedly a 74) in a 72 dart, with headers, a carb, and intake, and it made 197rwhp.
 
ir3333 said:
you've been reading too many build posts that dyno'd a big number (dyno'd by the builder)
a stock early 340 was about 275 - 280 hp and those that lived through the era know how
well these engines pulled in an A body.
your numbers look good and your car should work great.
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There's good reason other builds will have more power. You'll probably note that most 400hp dyno'd builds that have timeslips that could make that plausible don't have things like a cam pretty close to the stock 360-LD's.

leblanc said:
Supposedly a stock 1979 4 bbl 360 had 265 HP .
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I believe one was rated for 225 (E58) and the other was rated for less than 180. This has a cam closer to the latter than the former. There was also a 2bbl (E55) with the bigger cam and I think that had more power than the 4bbl LD.

purpleheart0189 said:
Don't get caught up in numbers

I'm not gonna say what my 408 made but it was below 400 to the tire and I have a street car 26 in tall tires and 3:91 gear cruise 70mph 3000 rpms so it is t a nasty type of car at all and I run 11:20 117mph with a slipping trans. Just use the dyno to get a/f in a good starting point and go from there my street car kills a lot of high horsepower cars at the track .
Best advice is get it running great then add one thing at a time and see what happens . I call it chipping away
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Very much so. It's important in the street and a car that'll see track time. You have what power you do, and it working properly is the most important thing. Sure you can always go back through later and increase it but if the goal is street driving it, that's important. On the flip hand though people easily get worried that building a 318 or a 360 to a 340 or close to a 5.7's specs are going to make it unstreetable in some manner, but if you're not frequently rock-crawling or on the extreme end of medium duty truck usage- cams as small as a 360's or 318's are typically not best for anything.
 
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