Anyone need a side job in Los Angeles CA?

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Sedanman

Sedanman

67-9 Valiant specialist
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chicago Il
I am purchasing a car there that has a flat lobe on the cam & needs to be changed so I can drive it back to chicago. I'm looking for a fellow Mopar member who may be out of work & could use some cash or someone that can fix it relatively cheap since transport is $1800. The cam is there but since the cam is out,I would like the cam bearings & T chain swapped out since your going to be in there & go over things that may be an issue for the drive. PM me if you can or know of someone that can do it. Thanks Chuck
 
Good luck finding someone with the correct tools to install cam bearings. Especially with it in the block in car.

If it lost a cam, there will be garbage EVERYWHERE inside the engine.
 
I am not on board with some of the other comments here.

If the bearings are there and not trash, leave them for now.

If it lost a lobe, depending on how much wiped off or how long it was ran there is a lil junk in the motor, but so?

Heres the reality...
80's chevys lost lobes all the time and we would just pour oil through it to rinse the pan and stick a new cam/lifters in and away it went w/no issues that caused failure/breakage afterwards.

I have seen motors run after being built where they were not cleaned after machining, and while the bearing were valley'd/grooved from the debris...it still held good psi and ran fine.
Back to reality, if it lost a lobe with the previous owner...chances are it was all run through the bearings already and run for a while till it really acted up, so whats a new cam/lifters and run it gonna hurt?
Stick a magnet on the bottom of the oil pan and oil filter to capture/contain the bits.

So unless you want to have to rebuild it 'just because' , stab a cam/lifters in it and go.

I'd do it.
 
It still runs & drives but he said it has a lump which seems to get worse after driving it for about 4 hours. He was actually the 1 who thinks it's a cam & purchased 1 for it. But Your probably right @ Turd. He did have the heads off & rebuilt & that may be why he figured it needs a cam since he was able to look down in it.
 
I just spoke to him again & he said a friend diagnosed it as either a bad lifter or bad lobe
 
I picked up a 64 Falcon 289 back in the '70's that had a wiped lobe on the cam. I went to a friends wrecking yard and pulled a cam out of another motor and stuck it in mine and ran it without problems for 2 years before I sold it. You need someone to really look at it and diagnose it all the way before doing anthing but then if it is the cam I would just put another stick in it and go.
 
I hear ya,but it's also a 2000 mile trip & don't want any issues. He is going to check around for a shop that will do it reasonable since he already has a cam & lifters for it. I don't feel like spending $1800 to ship it if it's a runner & was trying to help out a fellow member who needs a side job & save me a few bucks at the same time.
 
Sedanman said:
I hear ya,but it's also a 2000 mile trip & don't want any issues. He is going to check around for a shop that will do it reasonable since he already has a cam & lifters for it. I don't feel like spending $1800 to ship it if it's a runner & was trying to help out a fellow member who needs a side job & save me a few bucks at the same time.
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A bad lifter would tick from not pumping up/holding any oil psi.
I can change a cam without removing the intake, just by loosening some of the intake bolts for the long needle nose pliers I use to drop new ones in &/or disassembling & cleaning of a dirty old lifter that ticks.
The drive comes out through the distributor hole w/long needle nose pliers as well.
How much are you paying & when do you need it ready by?
 
I'd do it for you, But I'm all the way in Gilroy Ca, about 5 1/2 hours south from L.A...
 
TurdFerguson said:
A bad lifter would tick from not pumping up/holding any oil psi.
I can change a cam without removing the intake, just by loosening some of the intake bolts for the long needle nose pliers I use to drop new ones in &/or disassembling & cleaning of a dirty old lifter that ticks.
The drive comes out through the distributor hole w/long needle nose pliers as well.
How much are you paying & when do you need it ready by?
Click to expand...

Remember, these are mechanical lifters. There's really not much that can go wrong with them! I hope it's not a bent pushrod or something weird going on with one of the rockers (super worn ball ends)
 
cudavert said:
Remember, these are mechanical lifters. There's really not much that can go wrong with them! I hope it's not a bent pushrod or something weird going on with one of the rockers (super worn ball ends)
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exactly,lol

so when the guy said it may have a bad lifter...he should have said cam.

needle nose plier would find out.
 
Spoke to him again & he said the new cam & lifters he has are hydrolic. Do you have to change the pushrods when swapping from mech to hydro lifters? it's a bit more of an aggressive cam than factory that was gifted to him,but not too much.
 
Tune up?? closed electrode, miswired, after 4 hours of driving coil may get hot???

Idk good luck with the drive.:thumrigh:
 
Sedanman said:
Spoke to him again & he said the new cam & lifters he has are hydrolic. Do you have to change the pushrods when swapping from mech to hydro lifters? it's a bit more of an aggressive cam than factory that was gifted to him,but not too much.
Click to expand...

Yes, you DEFINITELY do!......no choice. Seems like from what I've ever seen, a flat lobe will make the engine have a "shake" as opposed to a full-blown "miss". I'm still a little skeptical if the diagnosis is correct.
 
It does shake & he had a friend come by today to inspect it & he also claims it's a lobe or lifter
 
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