Anyone use a Rollmaster timing chain?

-
78kitcar

78kitcar

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2008
Messages
1,135
Reaction score
152
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Engine builder has recommended a Rollmaster timing chair for my Magnum 360 build. I've never heard of them. Obviously I'm no engine builder but I've flipped through a few summit magazines to know who the popular manufacturers are. Anyone know about these? Good/Bad? I'm building a Magnum 360. Nothing special .30 over street/strip cam EQ heads. I got everything from Hughes. Probably should call them as well. Thanks
 
I have heard good things about Rollmaster, but I have not used them before. I have the Comp Cams "hi-tech" timing chain in my 408....its a nice thick chain, works well.
 
I have. They are a good chain....the bottom sprocket has a lot of degree choices which is nice. The only negative is I have found the bottom sprocket to be a bit tighter than it should (ID). It goes on hard and comes off hard....you need a very good puller to get it off. It's really too tight...I'd consider honing the bore a little to make it fit 'properly'.
 
I just had issue with one on my long rod 225 slant six build. The crank gear was marked wrong. No way in heck the dots were lining up. It was really not a huge issue. I was going to remark it. But when I went to remove it, it would not budge. I even have a correct puller and it began to bend before the gear would come off. I "COULD" have simply left it on at this point, but I did not want to. So, 20 minutes later, the gear was laying on the floor, suffering massive injuries from a Snap On air chisel. Everything was in order, too. The crank snout was clean and free of burrs. The inside of the gear was the same. I installed it with a large socket and lubed the crank snout up good with vasoline. I even emailed the seller I got the Rollmaster set from letting them know the crank gear was not marked correctly......not expecting anything of course, since I did mutilate the gear. He responded and said that an entire run of them were not marked correctly. applications all across the board, so be warned. Look at my avatar now. That's what I'm going to run now, but I am modifying the gear drive to be a fixed single idler, as it will be more accurate.
 
Pretty sure they are an Australian made piece, used one on a slant six build quite a few years ago, “appeared” of high quality. Installed it and forgot about it. You might want to search on slantsix.org (or .com) and search there for issues about quality as that’s where I got my info, more known there, and decided to go with one.
 
12many said:
Pretty sure they are an Australian made piece, used one on a slant six build quite a few years ago, “appeared” of high quality. Installed it and forgot about it. You might want to search on slantsix.org (or .com) and search there for issues about quality as that’s where I got my info, more known there, and decided to go with one.
Click to expand...

I `ve got one on my 440/505 , was perfect in every way , and holding up very well, been on for about 10ish yrs-----------------
 
I just put one on the slant I'm assembling for the Valiant. It was a quality piece, and went on nicely. Like gregcon said, it has many timing choices to get it degreed as you wish.
 
This is the puller I made for the Rollmaster lower gear. It allows you to use some threaded studs to pull the gear off evenly and without damage. I made this after I installed the Rollmaster and needed to pull it back off for degreeing and found it was even harder coming off than it was going on. After I pulled it, I honed the ID to make it a looser fit, so the puller is still used but it's not doing much work.
lower gear puller .jpg
 
gregcon said:
This is the puller I made for the Rollmaster lower gear. It allows you to use some threaded studs to pull the gear off evenly and without damage. I made this after I installed the Rollmaster and needed to pull it back off for degreeing and found it was even harder coming off than it was going on. After I pulled it, I honed the ID to make it a looser fit, so the puller is still used but it's not doing much work.View attachment 1715599277
Click to expand...

Mine is similar, but a one piece with a U shaped hole in it. It would budge the crank gear. But I got it off. lol
 
gregcon said:
I have. They are a good chain....the bottom sprocket has a lot of degree choices which is nice. The only negative is I have found the bottom sprocket to be a bit tighter than it should (ID). It goes on hard and comes off hard....you need a very good puller to get it off. It's really too tight...I'd consider honing the bore a little to make it fit 'properly'.
Click to expand...

I used one on my 360, and found the bottom sprocket was loose, otherwise I thought it was a good set.
 
I run one, held up much better than the previous one, a no name one. I guess the chain is really important. They are an IWIS? Chain?
 
They use an iwis chain which is very high quality.

Competition Products sells them and also have a nice chain with their Howard's name on it
 
gregcon said:
I have. They are a good chain....the bottom sprocket has a lot of degree choices which is nice. The only negative is I have found the bottom sprocket to be a bit tighter than it should (ID). It goes on hard and comes off hard....you need a very good puller to get it off. It's really too tight...I'd consider honing the bore a little to make it fit 'properly'.
Click to expand...
Heat the crank gear, leave it in the sun.
I agree, its tight, I beat mine on. Lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
I just had issue with one on my long rod 225 slant six build. The crank gear was marked wrong. No way in heck the dots were lining up. It was really not a huge issue. I was going to remark it. But when I went to remove it, it would not budge. I even have a correct puller and it began to bend before the gear would come off. I "COULD" have simply left it on at this point, but I did not want to. So, 20 minutes later, the gear was laying on the floor, suffering massive injuries from a Snap On air chisel. Everything was in order, too. The crank snout was clean and free of burrs. The inside of the gear was the same. I installed it with a large socket and lubed the crank snout up good with vasoline. I even emailed the seller I got the Rollmaster set from letting them know the crank gear was not marked correctly......not expecting anything of course, since I did mutilate the gear. He responded and said that an entire run of them were not marked correctly. applications all across the board, so be warned. Look at my avatar now. That's what I'm going to run now, but I am modifying the gear drive to be a fixed single idler, as it will be more accurate.
Click to expand...
wonder if that had anything to with folks saying the mp cams were off 5-8 degrees...
 
Whats 5 or 10 degrees here or there? There's 360 of 'em...
 
austrailan made ? 1-cloyes 2 edelbrock 3 elgin. the best true double rollers are .250" pin diameter. midrange units are .225" and low budget rollers are .200"
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
wonder if that had anything to with folks saying the mp cams were off 5-8 degrees...
Click to expand...

I don't know. I have a Hughes cam. I could line the cam gear up on either side of the crank gear but never dot to dot. It's really a trivial thing, I know. I could have easily remarked the gear, but it NEEDED to come back off. ....and it did. LOL
 
I've had good luck with the cloyes true roller chain with the reynold chain which is a french made quality chain.
 
IIRC there are red blue and gold levels. IWIS is the chain manufacturer. Not sure what the levels denote but the Gold is 2X the price of the reds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top