Arizona Swinger

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WELL...placed an order this morning for an AAR fiberglass bolt on hood with the six pak scoop for the Swinger. I questioned them about what to do with the factory hood springs; they recommended they be removed or modified. Seems there is a man in Arkansas (Herb Beer)that modifies the original springs to work with a fiberglass hood for 50.00 dollars, including shipping. Anyone had this done? Ben.
 
Two shots, one from the backside and one of the roughed in metal work on the passenger side lower quarter panel.
Also some shots of the preliminary work being done on the left side lower quarter panel. Was hoping not to have to do any repair on the inner trunk drop off, but too many little holes with daylight shining through to ignore it!
Will upload more pictures as work progresses. Ben
 
A few more pictures of the inner trunk drop repair. The silver covering in the last picture is 'zinc rich weld through primer'. It works well in covering bare metal, but does not inhibit future welding. Ben.
 
We decided to work on the left fender today. Actually in very good condition, no rust or serious damage! Since I have decided to install a tail stripe, I have no need for the holes in the side of the body for the side molding. I've found the best way to take care of the holes is to weld them up with a mig welder, rather than using any other type of filler which always cracks or falls out. The best way to weld the hole shut is with a backing behind the hole, which minimizes the time you spend welding, and also reduces the chance of 'blowing' the hole bigger, or warping the metal any more than necessary. A 'welders helper' like the one pictured is good, but I also have made use of a copper penny and a small plastic coated strip magnet to put behind holes. The heat melts the plastic on the magnet and retains the penny to the magnet, which in turn holds it in place behind the fender. Then you weld up the hole, and since the welding wire does not stick to the copper penny, you're pretty much done, except for minimal grinding( I know this might be too basic, but I like to learn little shortcuts to speed things up!) Ben.
 
The left fender roughed in so little time, decided to move on to the right side fender. It presents a few more problems, as it is not the original one for the car. It has additional holes in the fender for the 'Dart Swinger' emblems, that are located on the quarter panel on the 70 2dr. Swinger, but must be located on the fender on a 71-72 model (?). Also the side molding clips mount on studs, rather than holes, which actually makes the job somewhat easier, since the studs can be cut off and ground smooth. One picture shows the 'welders helper' (two of them), on the back side of the fender. Also a couple of tears that had to be repaired, but nothing too bad. Ben.
 
Decided to do some hole repairs on the dash panel. Seems someone felt it necessary to install a toggle switch on the left end of the dash for some purpose. Also some extra holes for something under the dash, that are not needed. Then onward to the right side door. Ben.
 
.....and a couple of more. Side molding holes filled, and basic hammer and dolly work to rough in damage. Ben
 
greendart72 said:
You do nice work. I like your home made brake.
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Thanks for the compliment! I work with several guys, who have never been able to afford a lot of new equipment, and have out of necessity made tools to tackle a job. A lot of parts that most people would scrap, they bring back to life! Ben.
 
ef8340 said:
hey ben i see your thinking about replacing your hood if so what are your plans with it i need the mounting areas where the hinges go mine are rusted out and i pop riveted sections of a 73 hood there so if you decide to throw that old hood out helpa brother out
Thanks
Terry
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Terry: Let me know which way you want the hood cut, Ben.

(For those of you wondering, 'what in the world are you going to do to that scooped hood!!', the front has been bent in, the inner structure is buckled and bent back, and the outer skin is separated from the inner structure!)
 
Right door is pretty well roughed in--will need to have stretched metal in two spots heated and shrunken. Left door presents other difficulties as the handle area is cracked, with metal missing; here are some before shots. Ben.
 
i like the 2nd pic ben but we can narrow it up abit say along the side where the scoop would lay and i wont need the outer skin just the inner structure
i think that would make it alittle cheaper on shipping
thanks Ben
Terry
 
I spent two years looking for a rust free 70 Dart and found mine as you did out west. The car was born in Toronto and spent its whole life in Nevada, So Cal, And Arizona. It truly was rust free(had factory under coat) and had the HD front with discs and sway bar and I have yet to find ANY rust on it. The interior less the front seat including the original headliner is in excellent shape. The best part was that I got it for 3500 and drove it from Reno to Orlando with no problems. Good luck with your project . Good things do come to those who wait. Love those Darts!!!
 
A few more pictures of the roughed in left side door. On to a quarter panel or maybe the broken door striker. Ben
 
Decided to repair the holes (2) in the front fiberglass extensions. Simple grind out for good adhesion, and fiberglass mat and resin. Ben.
 
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