pntastar69
Well-Known Member
What ARP head bolts and or studs are needed on a LA 360 w/Speedmaster Heads PCE281-2146? Recommendations bolts or studs? Street car only.
ARP Head Bolts and or Studs for LA 360 w/Speedmaster Heads.
- Thread starter pntastar69
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B3422w5
Well-Known Member
ARP 144-4005 is the stud kit that will work. Same as Eddie heads
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Got it, thanks. Would the bolt kit be 144-3601?
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
I think it’s 3602, but I won’t swear to it. Thought the 3601 was for W2 heads.
Might give ARP a call and ask which crosses to the stud kit.
Yes
Yes 144-3601 . Has the two additional long bolts required with the Speedmasters , Edelbrocks and W2s. This is what I used on my Speedmasters. The 3602 mentioned above is for stock stock heads.
dano
Evil Handy Man
I second the ARP bolt kit for Edelbrock heads is what I used with my Speedmaster heads.
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys!
Scody21
Just send it
Studs are better than bolts because of how they clamp the load.
But if you ever plan to pull the heads while in the car, you want to use bolts as the heads will not clear the brake booster or blower fan.
But if you ever plan to pull the heads while in the car, you want to use bolts as the heads will not clear the brake booster or blower fan.
furrystump
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I like the studs because of the clamping force, but also like the bigger nut to tighten instead of the very short hex on the bolt kit. Also I just back the studs out using an Allen. Never an issue.
Unscrew the studs and pull the head.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
That’s if the studs have the socket in them. I don’t think any of my studs have that, but most of those studs I own are at least 30 years old. Or a bit older.
Yours may not but the nwr ARP's have a 3.16" allen in the end so you can screw them in. Is there a specific torque for them? All I see is "finger tighten" them into the block. No reason you couldn't loosen the nut and unscrew the stud.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Scody21
Just send it
Most people don’t have this tool set. Just pulled about 100 studs the other day… even with this it sucked…
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
If you go with studs order the W2 kit. The upper row of the ARP kit for the edelbrock heads are to short. When I called ARP tech line about this issue they told me to back the stud out a few turns. I returned my kit to Summit and ordered the w2 kit. ARP could care less if their kit is correct or not.
www.summitracing.com
ARP 144-4002 ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Studs | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Studs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Cylinder Head Fasteners at Summit Racing.
StreetSleeper
Well-Known Member
No one needs hex head insert to remove ANY stud.
Simply screw on two nuts onto the top of the stud, lightly tighten them together, then unscrew the bottom nut, which will unscrew the stud itself.
Some nuts are thin when stud end play is short.
Working the bottom but against the top nut (stud removal)
Or
Tightening the top nut against the bottom nut (installation) screws the stud into the component/block
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More fun than double nutting. If you screw the studs in by hand they should come out easily. A pair of pliers on the threads in the middle of the stud should get them started. The threads at the top and bottom shouldn't be touched.
Scody21
Just send it
Yep. Depends on the application and where the studs are (ie exhaust side of head) and/or what metal they are in. (Steel stud in aluminum) Some I was pulling the other day are glued in, oh what pain… double nutting is not fun when your pulling a hundred or so studs at a crack.. this head has 44 studs, I did 4 heads the other day. Guess my math was a little off…
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