ARP Studs: Torque?Lock-Tite?

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FASTBACK340

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Should I lock-tite the suckers into the block, how tight DO they get installed, and what torque value should I use on the nuts? The FSM spec, or is there a different method when using studs on the heads & mains?

Please, advice guys. I'm locking myself in the garage tomorrow with 6 cold bottles of seltzer and 3 packs of gum. This is serious..... :tongue:
 
just run the studs in by had all the way and then use the moly lube on the nuts and washers. Make sure the washers are on right, then torque them down. i think I cant remember for sure but i think its torque to 90LBS for moly lube its higer if you use oil. Just check the arp spec
 
fastbackcuda said:
Doe the new bolt you got have threads on it ? :D
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Studs smart-***!! :tongue:

Yes, ARP sent me one of every stud for use on a S/B Mopar, just covering all bases to advoid confusion I guess. Good customer service!
 
Using A Torque Wrench
If the stretch method cannot be used in a particular installation, and the fasteners must be installed by torque alone, there are certain factors that should be taken into account. ARP® research has verified the following “rules” pertaining to use of a torque wrench:

1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP® lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing.

2. The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

3. Surface finish is also important. For example, black oxide behaves differently than a polished fastener. It is therefore important to observe the torque recommendations supplied with each fastener.

NOTE: It is possible for even the most expensive of torque wrenches to loose accuracy. We have seen fluctuations of as much as ten (10) foot pounds of torque from wrench to wrench. Please have your torque wrench checked periodically for accuracy
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Got all dat?
 
this is from the ARP instructions, i can fax them to you if you want.

this is for 1/2 diameter studs with 190,000 PSI

Hand tighten studs only, Lock tight may be used but torq must be completed prior to the lock tight set up.

With Moly lube 90LBS
with 30 wt Motor oil 130LBS

Be prepared also that the studs may throw out you thruste bearing clearance so you may have to take the bearing down a bit make sure you pay close attention to that area trust me. you will need about .006 on both sides so make sure you check.
 
chad72duster said:
Be prepared also that the studs may throw out you thruste bearing clearance so you may have to take the bearing down a bit make sure you pay close attention to that area trust me. you will need about .006 on both sides so make sure you check.
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I beleive the factory spec is .0015 end play, which is exactly where I'm at. The .006 you refer to, is that on either side of the bearing against the crank? Let me know..... I just buttoned up the lower end tonight :roll:
 
between the the thrust bearing and the crank should be .006 or about there this is not a big a factor for an auto car but a big deal on a 4 speed carits how much play the crank in the thrust bearing.
 
take a mallet and know the crank forward check the gap between the crank and the the thrust should be .006 - .008 then knock it back and check the other side should be the same .
 
chad72duster said:
take a mallet and know the crank forward check the gap between the crank and the the thrust should be .006 - .008 then knock it back and check the other side should be the same .
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I'll check it tomorrow night. Thanks Chad!
 
FASTBACK340 said:
chad72duster said:
take a mallet and know the crank forward check the gap between the crank and the the thrust should be .006 - .008 then knock it back and check the other side should be the same .
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I'll check it tomorrow night. Thanks Chad!
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Wow, good advice! I checked the clearance and it was .003 !!! After about 7 times of installing & removing them I finally got it. I was using a plate of glass & some fine sandpaper and I carefully knocked it down square.

All those years of model building paid off :wink:
 
cool glad I could help, i used a machine flat table at the machine shop and some fine paper to take mine down to fit.
those studs make it tough as hell but they are a pain in the butt until you get them straight. i think you have her beat now.
 
chad72duster said:
cool glad I could help, i used a machine flat table at the machine shop and some fine paper to take mine down to fit.
those studs make it tough as hell but they are a pain in the butt until you get them straight. i think you have her beat now.
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Now for the final dumb-*** question on the lower end: What sealant should I use to install #5 bearing cap on either side of the rear main? I know it has to get glued together..... :? But what?

With that done, it's time to move upstairs and install the heads & valve train. Now THAT should be an intestine-twister! :eye:
 
just that black gasket sealant it comes in a small white bottle. they sell it at just about any auto parts store just brush it all along the chanel where the rear main seal goes in bothe the block and the cap and put the seal in. check to see and mock up your pan gasket because you may have to notch out the pan gasket to accept the rear main seal ears.. Make sure you tap the crank forward and then back after the seal is in and torqued down to set the seal.

The top half shouldnt be to bad. Just check your timing gear MoparDude said he had to set his gear with the dots at 12 and 12 . I have never seen this as afar as i know it should be 6 and 12 for the timing dots with number 1@ TDC.

Whats your top half going to look like???
 
chad72duster said:
Whats your top half going to look like???
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Well, I'm planning on using a set of mildly ported `68 X heads, Comp Cams dual valve springs, teflon seals, Crane 1.6:1 roller rockers, Comp Cams pushrods, ARP head studs, and the .509" /292 duration MP cam topped off with a six barrel set up. I have a Centerforce diaphram clutch, Lakewood scattersheild, re-built A833, 4.10 SG, and Hooker super comps w/ 2.5" pipes & 2 chamber Flowmasters..... Hopefully it'll run OK :twisted:

Thanks for the recommendation on the sealant. I promise the next time I'm at the garage I'll snap a few pix.
 
should run like a bat out of hell. I always liked the look of a 6 pack set up. I stayed with a single 4 and mine has more juice than you would believe.
 
HawaiiDuster said:
That sounds like a sweet setup Fastback340 :thumrigh:
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Yeah..... If I don't burn the $#@!@#$ garage down and walk away first! :x

I had to "modify" the windage tray some more this afternoon..... as in removing about 1" from either side since the stock 340 tray sits on the 360 different, and the edges hit the Milodon pan.

This is more fun that giving a pitbull a prostate exam..... :D

Oh well.... off to B-B-Q some meat. That always makes me feel better. Thanks for the feedback guys :thumrigh:
 
you will get it, I dont know about a bull dawgs Axx but i know those windage trays can be a pain in the aXX. Once thats done the hard part is over setting the top half is not that bad. The only mager problem i had on the top half was that the intake hade to ceut .030 to sit right on my heads, without it I had way to much gap on the ends.
 
chad72duster said:
The only mager problem i had on the top half was that the intake hade to ceut .030 to sit right on my heads, without it I had way to much gap on the ends.
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That's a thought that make's the hair stand on the back of my neck: Having my six-pack manifold cut to fit the motor! :pale:

I guess I'll find out tomorrow :D
 
it should be no big deal. if it bolts on true you are good to go, Mine was to big and would not sit. i just had it cut down .010 at a time untill it set right.
 
FINALLY !!!!!

The lower end is done. Finished.... Over with..... Crank spins without touching the tray, the pick-up is about 1/8" off the bottom, and everything fits.

Tomorrow night we crank in the studs, slip in the cam, and drop the heads on, assemble the valve train, and put it in the car and drive.


.......right :tongue:
 
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