Arthur’s Duster
- Thread starter go-fish
- Start date
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DionR
Well-Known Member
1973 was the best year for Duster styling. Prove me wrong.
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I sure like them!
Very cool.
DionR
Well-Known Member
That picture you posted (and I reposted) looks like a dead ringer for the '73 I just did a deal on. JY6 Gold, same stripe, same half vinyl roof. I think I even still have those same hubcaps. Not near as nice of a condition though. It's a /6 car so I am going to do my G3/T56 swap into that one and leave my 360/4 speed car alone.
Legendary has the snakeskin for the top.
Did a bumper tuck when fitting up the Frodee front spoiler. I simply circled the bolt with a paint pen as the bumper was bolted up and aligned in stock configuration.
I took the bumper/bracket assembly off and measured 1” forward. Drilled a pilot hole then 9/16 then opened it a little more with a die grinder for adjustability. Should have just drilled them 3/4 to to start.
This is one of those mods that I guess you don’t expect anyone to notice. I don’t. The difference is subtle but maybe it will impress some late-A nerd like me.
For information on the spoiler and install visit:
Frodee Built Front Spoiler - 1973+ A-body
I took the bumper/bracket assembly off and measured 1” forward. Drilled a pilot hole then 9/16 then opened it a little more with a die grinder for adjustability. Should have just drilled them 3/4 to to start.
This is one of those mods that I guess you don’t expect anyone to notice. I don’t. The difference is subtle but maybe it will impress some late-A nerd like me.
For information on the spoiler and install visit:
Frodee Built Front Spoiler - 1973+ A-body
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It was finally nice outside. Got some glamour shots down at the lake. The ducktail spoiler is just mocked up. Haven’t figured out how I want to mount it.
The front spoiler made its debut on the streets and held up well. It’s very well made and sturdy. It felt more stable at highway speed up to 85-90 mph blasts.
The ducktail is something I’m trying to figure out. If I can get it perfect I wouldn’t mind putting holes n the trunk. However, this spoiler from Showcars on EBay is rough. I was thinking of a temporary mounting idea like magnets or 3M double sided tape. It’s a project in the infant stage. But it looks good mocked up!
I’m planning on getting an OER reproduction sport scoop from Summit.
The front spoiler made its debut on the streets and held up well. It’s very well made and sturdy. It felt more stable at highway speed up to 85-90 mph blasts.
The ducktail is something I’m trying to figure out. If I can get it perfect I wouldn’t mind putting holes n the trunk. However, this spoiler from Showcars on EBay is rough. I was thinking of a temporary mounting idea like magnets or 3M double sided tape. It’s a project in the infant stage. But it looks good mocked up!
I’m planning on getting an OER reproduction sport scoop from Summit.
Brake diameter upgrade time! Shock upgrade time! Master cylinder upgrade!
Arthur’s Duster has about 3800 miles on the restoration. I was seriously contemplating putting my Viper brake kit and 18’s on but recommitted to the Day Two vibe. I decided I want to keep the look with Rallye wheels so I bought the biggest brakes that would fit. Mopar 11.75" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 2) A 15/16” master will replace all OEM power brake parts.
Also installed are Fox shocks I picked up from Al and Theresa.
Up next is the 8-3/4 build. I bought a 8.75 housing from @coloradohill to replace my 8.25. Plans are to buy 383 Dart 130lb/in springs, 11x2.5” drum rebuild kit, and install a Tru-Trac equipped 3rd member I bought from Peter Bergman.
I have most everything but a driveshaft and leaves, as far as big parts anyway.
I’ve also got a modified z-bar on the way and thinking about putting my TTI step headers on this car.
Arthur’s Duster has about 3800 miles on the restoration. I was seriously contemplating putting my Viper brake kit and 18’s on but recommitted to the Day Two vibe. I decided I want to keep the look with Rallye wheels so I bought the biggest brakes that would fit. Mopar 11.75" Front Disc Brake Kit (Stage 2) A 15/16” master will replace all OEM power brake parts.
Also installed are Fox shocks I picked up from Al and Theresa.
Up next is the 8-3/4 build. I bought a 8.75 housing from @coloradohill to replace my 8.25. Plans are to buy 383 Dart 130lb/in springs, 11x2.5” drum rebuild kit, and install a Tru-Trac equipped 3rd member I bought from Peter Bergman.
I have most everything but a driveshaft and leaves, as far as big parts anyway.
I’ve also got a modified z-bar on the way and thinking about putting my TTI step headers on this car.
Time for an update. Sitting at like 4,500 miles on the full restoration and it’s only been about a year?
I recently added SPC upper control arms, Hotchkis/ Fox shocks, QA1 lower control arms, and QA1 adjustable stru rods. New lower ball joints were replaced. They were new, as was the full steering and suspension from the restoration, but they got boogered up in disassembly.
@72bluNblu , even with the 1.03” torsion bars this thing way outperforms the factory seats ability to hold your body in one place.
I’m saving all the big ball joint control arms for a future SBP car. I also have the LBP rotors, ‘73 calipers, caliper brackets, and spindles. Coming soon for that conversion is the Duster’s 8.25” rearend with new brakes
Next project is going to be an 8.75 swap to 2.91 gears with Eaton Trutrac. Currently is a 3.21.!
At the same time I am going to change the A833 gearing to a Commando gearset to get a lot more gear reduction in my starting gear. Right now it is VERY tame in 1st gear, starting out. I could fix first gear take off by putting 3.73’s in it or go to the 2.91 8-3/4 and get better fuel maileage and a better starting gear. It seems like most people have advised to just put steeper gears in to overcome the wimpy 1st gear ratio. 4th gear is still 1:1 so when you get to 4th your cruise speed is lower and rpm higher. I don’t want that.
I recently added SPC upper control arms, Hotchkis/ Fox shocks, QA1 lower control arms, and QA1 adjustable stru rods. New lower ball joints were replaced. They were new, as was the full steering and suspension from the restoration, but they got boogered up in disassembly.
@72bluNblu , even with the 1.03” torsion bars this thing way outperforms the factory seats ability to hold your body in one place.
I’m saving all the big ball joint control arms for a future SBP car. I also have the LBP rotors, ‘73 calipers, caliper brackets, and spindles. Coming soon for that conversion is the Duster’s 8.25” rearend with new brakes
Next project is going to be an 8.75 swap to 2.91 gears with Eaton Trutrac. Currently is a 3.21.!
At the same time I am going to change the A833 gearing to a Commando gearset to get a lot more gear reduction in my starting gear. Right now it is VERY tame in 1st gear, starting out. I could fix first gear take off by putting 3.73’s in it or go to the 2.91 8-3/4 and get better fuel maileage and a better starting gear. It seems like most people have advised to just put steeper gears in to overcome the wimpy 1st gear ratio. 4th gear is still 1:1 so when you get to 4th your cruise speed is lower and rpm higher. I don’t want that.
Saturday, my son and I went on the Reliability Run which is a 100 mile cruise. Plenty of cool Mopars. It was the farthest I’ve driven the Duster yet. Ended up about 200 miles getting to and from the starting point.
Just after exiting the interstate to head the last 5 miles home this happened.
Sheered off the water pump pulley!
Never heard of this happening.
Just after exiting the interstate to head the last 5 miles home this happened.
Sheered off the water pump pulley!
Never heard of this happening.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Yikes!
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Does the water pump impeller run true? Were the belts in perfect alignment? All I can think is that there was some runout that caused it to fatigue over time.
Metal fatigue, my brother's SS454 Chevelle split the power steering pulley in a similar fashion last fall.
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