Assassin bars

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6pkScamp said:
Went out for a test run today. First gear was like a top fueled burnout. Back of the car jumped straight up and hopped a couple of times. Pedaled it a bit and hit second. Much better, car stayed straight and pulled hard. Less spinning. Third hit hard and also less spinning. Just have to play around with coming out of the hole.
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After adjusting,write down your adjustment...make a pass...write down your 60fts,1/8th&1/4 ET.....Repeat til satisfied.:D
 
pettybludart said:
After adjusting,write down your adjustment...make a pass...write down your 60fts,1/8th&1/4 ET.....Repeat til satisfied.:D
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott, I can't wait to get to the track. All the tuning I've been doing is on the street. I'm running out of test streets. Everything on the car is new. New motor, switched from four speed to a JW 727,Lenny's T/C. I put the bars on because 1st gear it a joke as far as any kind of traction. Probably hit Lakeland drag strip in the next week or two.
 
9 in. rear, 456 gears with home made Caltrac bars with stock leaf springs 315/60 M/T Drag Radials. All motor 394 ci pump gas (93 octane) small block driven 40 miles round trip to track and back. I upgraded fuel system from a stock mechanical pump with rubber 3/8 fuel line with a 950 to a MagnaFuel pump with -10 fuel lines and a ProSystems 1050 dominator. I have not made a good pass since the upgrade but my but dyno says it will be alot faster when I get back to track.
It has run 6.29 @ 109 with old fuel system, I am looking for some 6teens when I go back.
 
Thats even more impressive.
Guess I have to do something back there on mine then. I didnt used to care about the 2.0s, but, Ima thinking its time to do something about that.
How much different do you think that might be on the street( concrete mostly)?
 
What pinion angle are people running with these bars and monos?
 
Norm? Oh, youre in big trouble now. lol

The trick is to run near zero,when the power is running through it. If youre running slanty springs and no snubber this might require a ton of nose down.If youre running SS springs and a snubber 4 or 5 might do it. If youre running a stick car, coming off the line at 5000, and really hooking, you might need 7*. If you have 300hp, or 700 hp; new numbers. Auto or stick? new again. Street or track? new angle. Multi-link, ladder bar, snubber, slapper bars,change in ride height due to spring change,or,heaven forbid, air shocks? All could be different.
So where is normal?
And if your running a typical spring set-up, its not something you can just change at the drop of a hat.
Sorry. I just couldnt help myself.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Norm? Oh, youre in big trouble now. lol

The trick is to run near zero,when the power is running through it. If youre running slanty springs and no snubber this might require a ton of nose down.If youre running SS springs and a snubber 4 or 5 might do it. If youre running a stick car, coming off the line at 5000, and really hooking, you might need 7*. If you have 300hp, or 700 hp; new numbers. Auto or stick? new again. Street or track? new angle. Multi-link, ladder bar, snubber, slapper bars,change in ride height due to spring change,or,heaven forbid, air shocks? All could be different.
So where is normal?
And if your running a typical spring set-up, its not something you can just change at the drop of a hat.
Sorry. I just couldnt help myself.
Click to expand...

You must be snowed in. The norm in my response was be taken for what each car has as in your discription. Not a set angle just because of these bars.
 
MDVN15 Classic Industries 20% off 199 and up. Just ordered mine!!! Next are the monos
 
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