A group of us rent the track every year, about 45 cars showed up. When they did the tech, they announced that you had to have a cage 11.49 or faster. Well first run was a 11.01 118mph. That didn't go over so well, I don't have a cage and just factory seatbelts, but I was happy.
At the track today
- Thread starter DART340
- Start date
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Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
16lbs boost on a stroker? Seems you would have at least 700 hp to the tires. Is it not hooking? Do you run any type of intercooler? Just saying cause NA strokers seem to have better times. That set up should be deep in the 9's!
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Oh I remember your set up now. Intercooler and meth injection.
Now you have me worried on my TT 410 stroker that I am doing now.
Something has to be out of wack on yours. Who tuned it? How much timing is getting pulled out on boost? What is your initial timing set at?
What do you RPM do you rev it to?
Now you have me worried on my TT 410 stroker that I am doing now.
Something has to be out of wack on yours. Who tuned it? How much timing is getting pulled out on boost? What is your initial timing set at?
What do you RPM do you rev it to?
I run a full 35 degrees not timing backed out, I have to leave at idle and slowly roll into it. I tried hitting it hard yesterday but it just spins, so its more like a controlled acceleration. One thing some of the racers said yesterday was that my converter never seemed like it was locking up. Its my old 10 turbo action converter, which they said might be getting too loose. I have never checked the stall but if you are rolling along at idle and hit it sorta hard, my tach goes to about 3800 before the car starts to accelerate. I really dont know that much about that stuff.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
So did you tune it yourself? I say fix your converter if that is an issue and take it to a Chassis Dyno to get it correctly dialed in. I believe there is alot more on the table with your set up.
I have been learning on the boost game is you should pull out timing as the boost increases.
Example: This car here has Twin Turbo's on it. I have been talking back and forth with the owner. He runs 20lbs of boost with the initial timing locked out at 38* NO VACUUM ADVANCE. He Progressively pulls out 15* of timing as the Boost increases. He has Dual Water/Air intercoolers and Meth Injection Running on PUMP FUEL. He has done a best of 8.8 in the 1/4 at over 158 MPH. He leaves the line at about 2500 RPM.
His car weighs 3850lbs, HEAVY...
I will be using this............ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/
with this......... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-23131/
to control my timing.
On the Dyno...........
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6VdAHJFh3Y"]YouTube - Mike's 1967 Ebay Twin Turbo Powered BBC[/ame]
At the track...........
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npwI7gJRTNw&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - 47 Street car Shoot-Out Edm[/ame]
Hey Mad Dart I thought it was better to run full timing unless I was getting spark knock. With timing set at 35 degrees there is no detonation so you are saying I would still be better to take timing out? I have a msd 6btm box, so its easy to pull timing out
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
I was just using that as an example. Having the car tuned on a chassis dyno by someone who know's what they are doing would be your best bet. I would for sure change your REV Chip to 7k Instead of 6k. I bet you will get a big increase in power just by doing that. I bet it makes power to 6800rpm or so.
64physhy
Well-Known Member
I always thought the same, but recently learned from Brian at IMM that it depends on the engine. You need to play with it a little. On the dyno, he started out with 34, but ended up making more power with a better curve at 31. You kind of need to play with it a little to see what works for your combo. I'd back it off a couple degrees at a time until you get the best time.
moper
Well-Known Member
You'll need a convertor made for use with boost... You're more than liekly gettnig some crazy slippage numbers in 2nd and third with a "normal" performance convertor that was meant for 400 feet of torque.
Edit: You should also need a fire jacket, the SFI dated belts, SFI balancer, SFI flexplate, and the cage, plus the usual "on/off" switch and the other standard regulations. As you go faster, the tech inspections get more in depth.
Edit: You should also need a fire jacket, the SFI dated belts, SFI balancer, SFI flexplate, and the cage, plus the usual "on/off" switch and the other standard regulations. As you go faster, the tech inspections get more in depth.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
You may want to call someone like The Converter Shop in Arizona. Tell them what you got and the intended use. They will custom make you one!
There is a guy on theturboforums.com in australia that has a 360ci single turbo car. Here is his set up!
The Video......It is in a Hornet, talk about a sleeper
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bCGIHGtk9M&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - hornet 9.7sec at willow bank[/ame]
Ok, I called Cope racing trans today and told them what I had. He suggested a 9.5 converter, with about 2800-3000 stall. He said by my numbers I definitly needed to tighten it up. Now I will wait patiently about 2 weeks for my early Christmas present
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Sounds good...........Santa Claus is comin to town!!
So can you tell us who tuned your car? Do you have plans to take it to the chassis dyno after the converter?
It has not been tuned by anyone, except the little bit I have done, out of the box quick fuel carb, once I get the converter done I hope to check on someone in my area to tune it. Everybody around here just seems to be into the fuel injected stuff or computer controlled stuff.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Once you get the converter in it and have someone tune it you are gunna have other problems! You better get stock in Fruit of the Loom! Gunna scare the shitttt out of yourself! I bet you could pick up 2 seconds in the quarter and drive it home when you are done!
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