ax15 ?

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schwinger said:
My clutch pedal setup is not that great looking, and mine was not a manual car to begin with. I wanted to install a stock clutch pedal setup but everybody at the time wanted an arm and a leg for it soo I just went to the junk yard and found a clutch pedal out of a vw golf mark 3 and made it work. Its obviously not professional but worked out for me and after 2 years its still holding up even after a lot of abuse! There are several other members that used the stock clutch style setup with better results, I just went my way because I was on a budget but hear are the pics of it.
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Bad thing tho the E brake is removed which I have no E brake which im gonna set that up pretty soon! Just giving you an idea on my setup but I would LIke to see some pics of kenneygene's setup!
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Now that's HOT RODDIN'!!!! How did you connect the speedo gear? Stock pinion?

Greg
 
In older Dakotas, the speedo was cable drive along with a sensor. You can connect the a body cable to the earlier sensor assembly fairly easily.
 
Yeah my Trans is a 98 so I'm gonna have to run a aftermarket Speedo. I wanted a custom garage cluster anyway lol
 
Sweet Did you just take the top of the torsion bar member out? And how did you do the Trans mount?
 
turbomopar said:
Sweet Did you just take the top of the torsion bar member out? And how did you do the Trans mount?
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Yes, I removed the top. I actually built the cross member using 2 cross members and welding them together and then modifying them accordingly. I didn't worry too much about the top of the cross member since the bottom is twice as strong as original.
 
cool Where did you mount your clutch master? The rod looks really angled in the pic like the factory clutch linkage rod would be
 
kennygene said:
Yes, I removed the top. I actually built the cross member using 2 cross members and welding them together and then modifying them accordingly. I didn't worry too much about the top of the cross member since the bottom is twice as strong as original.
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That's a nice Cross member setup and good idea too! Yea I just worried about that top part of the cross member messing up something if I took it completely out but if it worked out for you im gonna definetly re-modify mine.! I didn't have pics to go by when I was doing my setup so thanks for showing your pics :thumleft::thumleft:
 
I'll eventually run frame connectors too. I'm hoping to get this car to the track in the coming years.
The s10 master cylinder is angled and works well with this setup.
 
kennygene said:
I don't remember what year s10 I got it from.
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I'm guessing first gen ('93 and older). The 2000 S10 I looked up had a straight MC while the '93 had an angled one that would match the firewall better.

Did you have to clearance the inner fender to get the MC to fit?

There is massive thread on Moparts where Buschi340 did an R154 swap which is the same basic trans as the AX15 but with different ratios. He used the later Dakota MC and had to pound the inner fend back to get it to fit. Be nice to find an MC that is short enough that you don't have to do that.
 
I'm pretty sure I used the existing hole with a homemade bushing to make it smaller. The slave is from a dodge cummins truck but not sure of the year. However, I'm pretty sure the slave was for a nv4500 transmission.
 
Cool, so maybe the S10 MC is shorter and would save having to beat the inner fender in some.

Thanks for the info!

Last question. I am assuming you used the factory 143T flywheel and bell housing (looks like a magnum motor, too) and exhaust manifolds rather than headers. Buschi did the same thing with his R154 (143T flywheel and Dakota bell) but had to modify his headers because the starter was located farther out due to the larger flywheel. Any issues with exhaust at the starter? Did you have enough room to get the exhaust between the TB and starter?
 
Yes, it's a magnum engine with a stock magnum mini starter. The bell housing is stock Dakota with a v8 flywheel just in case I ever wanted to run factory fuel injection. I use shorty block hugger headers with no clearance problems. I can't remember the brand name but I had them jet hot coated before I installed them. I know for sure I didn't have to modify them at all. The only modification with the headers was grinding a little off the bottom of the heads. There was a chunk of steal in the casting that made the header leak.
 
kennygene said:
I use shorty block hugger headers with no clearance problems. I can't remember the brand name but I had them jet hot coated before I installed them. I know for sure I didn't have to modify them at all. The only modification with the headers was grinding a little off the bottom of the heads. There was a chunk of steal in the casting that made the header leak.
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Sorry, missed the headers in the engine shot.

I know I'm pushing it, but any chance you could snap a picture of the driver's side header arrangement? I didn't think a block hugger fit on a Duster, good to know.

kennygene said:
I did NOT have to modify the inner fender in any way.
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Right, no confusion there.

Thanks for the responses, appreciate the input.
 
Did you have to change the length of you're drive shaft? I got the yoke from the Dakota I knew I needed that
 
I am running a 8.25 rear diff from a 1974 valiant. I reused the same driveshaft that I ran with my 833 4 speed. I just had to change the transmission yoke. The u joint was the same size if I remember correctly so it was an easy swop.
 
Block huggers fit easily. As a matter of fact, my welding skills suck and I was able to fabricate the pipes all the way to the collectors using a cut off saw and pie cuts/welds. It doesn't look real good but it works.
 
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