Axial play, how much is normal?

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67cuda360

67cuda360

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I noticed when i put my car on jackstands that the 8.25 rear has some axial play (wheel moves in and out a bit when pushed or pulled). How much play is normal for a 8.25 rear?

Is it possible to tighten it up by adjusting something..?

Rearend comes from a 74 a body, and is now under my 67 barracuda.
(There is no radial movement, only axial).
 
The axles on the 8 1/4 are held in with C clips, and there can be a certain amount of play. The spider gears can move a tiny amount in/ out against the center cross pin, the axles can move in/ out a little, and there can be a tiny amount of play in the C clip groove ALL THIS adds up.
 
I just measured it and it is only 2mm per side of movement, so just over 1/16 of an inch.
sure felt like it was more than that ha ha. (sometimes when i go around a corner slowely i hear a small "thunk" this must be the axle moving i guess since i have checked everything else) So is 1/16th too much or is that within spec?
Thanks, Wilco.
 
There is no adjustment of the 8 1/4 axle bearings like there is on the 8 3/4". But I'm thinking that 1/16" is a lot, .010 - .015" would be better, and would recommend popping the cover and have a look for face wear of the axle C locks.
 
What exactly would i be looking for? You mention face wear of the axle C-locks, would this be obvious for a axle novice like myself to spot?

I've never taken the cover off of a rearend before (axle that is LOL) so this might be a stupid question, if i take the cover off, all the fluid will come out, how do you refill it when the cover is back on, i assume there is a filler hole at the top or something?

When the cover has come off, is there a gasket that needs to be replaced?
 
there is a filler / level plug on the rear, it should fit a 3/8 drive breaker bar or ratchet, put a drain pan under the rear to catch the fluid when you remove the cover, you can use silicone gasket sealer when you put the cover back on, you fill it up to the level of the fill plug with diff oil
 
Some are better than others for this particular application, but any one will do. The important part is the way you do it: Not too much (1/8"- 3/16" bead max). Any excess will just squeeze out and go to waste. Let it set up overnight lightly snugged down finger tight before you finish tighten and re-fill. Mopar used to have a type of silicone they labelled "gear sealant" which is a grey or red/orange-colored variant that cures a little harder and is supposed to be more compatible with gear oils. But like I said, any one will do as long as it's applied properly. Permatex probably still sells the same stuff. Black would be my 2nd choice.
 
Here's a complete write up on the 8 1/4" that covers the complete disassemble of the rear end. About half through it talks (with pictures also) about the removal of the C locks. Unless you intend to overhaul the entire rear end be careful not to disturb the adjustment rings on the case support bearings.

http://www.mopar1.us/axle/
 
You might want to look at the axle retainer nuts, to make sure they aren't loose. They are accessible through the large hole in the flange that holds the wheel studs. Those nuts should be tightened to 35 lb/ft.
 
Thanks for the response guys, i guess i found my winter project lol.
That article is great "demon seed", the pictures help a lot. I'll take the cover off when i have some time, and when i run into any problems or have any questions i'll let you guys know :)
Thanks, again for the help.
 
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