Axles-Gears-Powr-Lok setup

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OllieDemon45

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I plan on going through my 8.75 at the end of the season once i purchase everything needed.
So as far as i know, it is a stock 8.75 with a 489 "open" center section with stock 5x4 bolt pattern axles.
I already have the front swapped out to the BBP so i plan on doing the same in the rear.

Attached are the items i have found that i believe is what i want.

Has anyone else used this Powr-Lok unit and how do you think the 3.23 gears will be compared to the 3.91 that are in it now.

Anything else i am missing?

My Dad and i plan on going down to the Mopar Nats in Columbus this August so i might wait and purchase items there just to see what else might be available.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) Clutch Type Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok")
Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) Ring and Pinion for 741, 742, or 489 case
Mopar Axle Package 5 X 4 1/2" (5 X 4.5) Bolt Pattern 30/35 Spline
Mopar 8 3/4" Third Member Gasket
 
I've used several in Mopar, Chevy and Ford products. The PowerLock is the best limited slip unit, bar none. They are very strong. In a straight line, they are darn near a spool, especially under power, because the clutches "ramp up" and grab from the applied torque. They will even stay locked if you go around a turn under a decent amount of power. I would get it from Dr Diff. I think he offers a forum discount.
 
All depends on what you want to do with the car and what the car is. If it’s a driver and you want higher gears. Do you need the shire grip or just want one. Some times it’s a lot cheaper and easier to find a rear end that fits in the car that has the options you want. Maybe trading rear ends would be an option
 
All depends on what you want to do with the car and what the car is. If it’s a driver and you want higher gears. Do you need the shire grip or just want one. Some times it’s a lot cheaper and easier to find a rear end that fits in the car that has the options you want. Maybe trading rear ends would be an option
The car is just a cruiser for now. Someday i think it would be fun to run it down the strip for a test/tune day but nothing crazy.

I have thought about the complete rear end deal also, just figured for on extra $1000 or so i know what i would already have and everything would be fresh.

Just trying to make sure i make the best choices for my car buy the correct parts the first time.

Thanks for the reply!
 
RRR already got the powernloc. There is other info necessary for part of your question though. What transmission and cam are in your car/motor? Sometimes that much of a gear change with the wrong cam will make a your car a dog. I did the same thing, and sure as **** I was putting the 391 back in a few weeks later as the 323 were not happy with my cam…
 
RRR already got the powernloc. There is other info necessary for part of your question though. What transmission and cam are in your car/motor? Sometimes that much of a gear change with the wrong cam will make a your car a dog. I did the same thing, and sure as **** I was putting the 391 back in a few weeks later as the 323 were not happy with my cam…
The trans is a 727.. Not sure on the cam, i know the motor has been gone through many yrs ago. We were told it is .30 over, sounds like a mild cam, the car is nothing to radical. Motor was fresh when we got it back in the mid 90's, but the trans went out after only a few thousand miles of driving (if that) and the car pretty much sat for the next 25yrs until i got it from my dad about 4yrs ago.
I have been going through it slowly since then. It's time for the rear end/ axle change and also wheels/tires.

Thanks for the info, i would never have thought about that. Just learning as i go.
 
Your list covers the "go", but you forgot about the "whoa".
Your A body brake setup won't work with the large bolt pattern axles, even if you redrill the drums.
Easiest would be large bolt drums (and backing plates/hardware), then you won't have to mess around with different masters and proportioning valves- so as long as you've got an order going to Dr. Diff, you may as well add this to the list:
Mopar Drum Brake Assembly
 
Your list covers the "go", but you forgot about the "whoa".
Your A body brake setup won't work with the large bolt pattern axles, even if you redrill the drums.
Easiest would be large bolt drums (and backing plates/hardware), then you won't have to mess around with different masters and proportioning valves- and as long as you've got an order going to Dr. Diff, you may as well add this to the list:
Mopar Drum Brake Assembly
I just got the BBP drum brake assy from a fellow member on this site. Should be here Thursday. I just need to buy the drums.
The Dr.Diff setup has been out of stock for a year or so. Cass did say he might have more later this year.

Thanks for that info, i did forget to mention the rear brakes were taken care of.

[SOLD] - brake kits
 
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