B&M Converter is bad

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I really wish some of you guys where local to me. To teach me how to properly time a car. I do like all the input and knowledge that you guys offer and the patience that you have to put up with all my questions.
 
Do you know what distributor you have?.....stock ...aftermarket?
 
I had a W2 motor with a .638 lift and over 300 duration (roller) that I got to idle around 850-950.
And that was with a single plane M1 intake ! No way your motor should idle at 1200...

Listen to these guys, they are on the right track.
 
stock distributor...

know anyone who has a distributor machine...as that distributor will probably need springs and the mechanical advance slots inside the distributor will need to be weld up to limit the mechanical advance...

timing light aint going to do you any good until the distributor is fixed or replaced.
 
70aarcuda said:
stock distributor...

know anyone who has a distributor machine...as that distributor will probably need springs and the mechanical advance slots inside the distributor will need to be weld up to limit the mechanical advance...

timing light aint going to do you any good until the distributor is fixed or replaced.
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I don't know anyone that has a machine. I would rather buy a newer better distributor than try to fix the one I have. Any suggestions on a decent street distributor that won't break the bank and is easily tunable and reliable?
 
70aarcuda said:
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=76/prd76.htm

if you dont want to read the whole article ...read paragraph 5 and below
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I read that article and it is OK but doesnt really explain the "how to" for the layman... I have a great article here somewhere that explains the step by step procedure for tuning a 60s era engine and goes in depth on Chrysler distributor components. I believe I got it off the "Imperial Web Pages". Dont laugh.. That site has some great tech info !

I will try to find it and post.
 
MSD distributor with the black or blue bushing (black first), light silver and blue spring, time at 38 degrees total and it should run well!

Make sure it starts OK when hot. If it doesn't want to start because of dragging the starter, then put the blue bushing on it and retime to 38*

Don't need a machine to fix a mopar distributor. Weld the slots up to shorten (lengths for each degree are on the web)them on the inside edge, then get some lighter springs for the weights. Mr Gasket has some spring kits that work well.
 
70aarcuda said:
stock distributor...

know anyone who has a distributor machine...as that distributor will probably need springs and the mechanical advance slots inside the distributor will need to be weld up to limit the mechanical advance...

timing light aint going to do you any good until the distributor is fixed or replaced.
Click to expand...

I had a guy offer to give me an old Sun distributer machine years ago...I wated too long and he gave it to someone else.

STILL KICKING MYSELF!
 
When you were at the dyno,, I suspect you would have asked their opinion of the converter issues,, and high idle, - what was their opinion? ?
 
What type of timing gun should I get? Inductive or digital? I don't want to buy a cheap one but don't want to over spend
 
inertia said:
When you were at the dyno,, I suspect you would have asked their opinion of the converter issues,, and high idle, - what was their opinion? ?
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Actually the owner came to me after he pulled it onto the dyno and commented on how hard it ran and unhappy the car was when put into gear. I told them that is something that I wanted them to check out. After they readjusted the timing, he asked me what brand TC I had and when I told him it was a B&M 2000 stall he kinda of cringed and mentioned that he has seen those brand TC all over the board. When I asked what he meant he said that sometimes they are right on and are good converters other times he said he has seen them really loose or super tight as in my case. He suggested that I look into buying a good named brand converter (TCI, Turbo, Hughes, Coan) and all those issues would be gone and I could turn my idle back down.
 
go spend money and buy a new converter ...and see if you problems goes away....

it is your car and your money...do as you please....
 
70aarcuda said:
go spend money and buy a new converter ...and see if you problems goes away....

it is your car and your money...do as you please....
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I was just answering his question about what the dyno guy said and his opinion.

Since so many of you on here are leaning towards my timing and I value your opinion that is the route Im going to try first.

I went and looked a timing guns today an there seem to be two different types. Inductive (traditional) and Digital. What do you guys suggest I buy for a gun or brands to stay away from?
 
How did it run at idle before they monkeyed with the timing? Did it idle like a POS? Need to run at 1200 rpm? If not you should be able to deduce where the problem lies.

I use an ages old inductive timing light that doesn't have a dial back on it. Works on everything I've ever hooked it up to.

If that dyno was free that's one thing, if you paid for it, I'd be less than happy. Wish I could do work like that, mess up one end of the way an engine runs, and have people pay me for it. :)
 
crackedback said:
How did it run at idle before they monkeyed with the timing? Did it idle like a POS? Need to run at 1200 rpm? If not you should be able to deduce where the problem lies.

I use an ages old inductive timing light that doesn't have a dial back on it. Works on everything I've ever hooked it up to.

If that dyno was free that's one thing, if you paid for it, I'd be less than happy. Wish I could do work like that, mess up one end of the way an engine runs, and have people pay me for it. :)
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Before I brought it to them, the car would idle at 600-800, but once put into gear it died immediately. So I turned up the idle to get it to stay running once it was in gear.

I can tell you this. I did find a box that I got when I bought the car. The last owner had a new pickup and spring kit in there, that was opened. So something was changed in the distributor. I just dont know what yet.

I was planning on just picking up a basic gun. I think its about $40.

No, unfortunately that dyno cost some good money. It does have much better mid to high range now, just the low side sucks butt.

I found a good article on how to set up Mopar distributors that breaks it down pretty well for people like me. Although its breaking it down to adjusting the vacuum advance also. From the sounds of it I only need to worry about initial and mechanical.
 
crackedback said:
I use an ages old inductive timing light that doesn't have a dial back on it. Works on everything I've ever hooked it up to.
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I agree, my Sun is close to 40yrs old.....just wish I had something to use it on...:D.

As far as the value on your dyno session, it looks like they were just trying to get you a hp/tq number and not really giving you a good tune, which in my opinion is all a good chassis session is good for.
 
I have an olddd Craftman inductive, and a newer dial back inductive,, and now a digital inductive, which I really like, has tach, etc,, and makes it so easy to map timing curves..
 
Now sort out the low side.

Make darn sure you don't have a vacumm leak. Even a small one will cause havoc with idle settings.

I wouldn't drive it, I'd grab the distributor and twist in CCW a bit, readjust idle speed and see how it goes. Find the point that the car has difficulty starting while hot, then turn it slightly cw to get it so it starts easily. That's where you want it for initial. Put timing light on it and subtract that number from 38 and that's what you need for mechanical advance. I mentioned 16-22 before and that's usually where that style cam will likely end up.

Have a vacuum gauge handy, set idle at 800, mix screws at 1.5 turns out and then find the leanest (in) idle with highest vacuum reading. Then back them out another ~1/8-1/4 turn. The RPM drop should not be excessive. Make sure the distributor is not dropping timing out when it goes in gear. Will take two people, drop it in gear and make sure the timing remains where you set it. If it's less you have an issue and dist weights need a stiffer spring set on them.

Same set up in a 360, XE268H and a 750 DP... 16 initial 36 total.
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~800 in p/n, ~700 in gear
 
timing lights....have an old craftsman dial back....works on all msd and mopar ignitions....

and got a 29.95 harbor freight dial back that works the same...
 
just start first on getting the car to idle in park at a normal 800rpm + or -50rpm, start by capping off your pvc valve and power brake booster to eliminate a possible large vacuum leak, see how it runs, if no change spray base of carb and intake with carb cleaner and listen for a change of rpm, if all looks ok tune your idle with timing and vacuum readings.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
just start first on getting the car to idle in park at a normal 800rpm + or -50rpm, start by capping off your pvc valve and power brake booster to eliminate a possible large vacuum leak, see how it runs, if no change spray base of carb and intake with carb cleaner and listen for a change of rpm, if all looks ok tune your idle with timing and vacuum readings.
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FTW :cheers:
 
I bought a used but like new Snap-on dial back light that has all the bells and whistles for a super deal considering what they charge for them. Guess what? It's the most temperamental light I've had. If the engine misfires it scrambles the T light's brain box and I have to unhook it from power and re-hook it back up to reset it. Been tempted to see how far I can throw it a few times. Don't get me wrong, the options it has are great, when it works right... Get yourself a decent regular inductive light and mark your balancer and it'll work just fine.
 
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