Backhalving?

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Well i went to the drags today and saw a sweet 69 barracuda, it had huge tires under it but still was not backhalved. Guy said it has a shortened 8 3/4, coil overs and ladder bars. Very VERY tight fit. I still don't know what im going to do though.

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Probably had 13/31s under it. I think that is the largest tire you can get in there. The limiting factor is of course the frame rail unless you hack the wheel wells and stick the tire out of the body. You still have to massage the wheel opening to fit that tall of a tire though. It's a lot of work for not much tire, and again, not much adjustability either if you ask me.
 
I agree with guitar jones...fitting the biggest tire you can was what i was always taught as better...the more tire, the more traction, and hopefully a better hook...thats why small tire guys who run fast get respect get credit for it, because its harder to hook the power on the smaller tire...but if you can run as big as you can why not? a backhalfed car running 13's is goofed, but if your planning for 10's (even if you dont get there at first), youll definaty be planning for even faster in the future...do it once man, thats all i have to say...but then again, you really havent told us anything about your setup
 
Just out of curiosity I checked 440valiant's profile.

Time to inject some reality here. His car is currently 318 powered, he's 16 and works part time. Two more years until he can get a decent paying full time job, unless he wants to sacrifice his grades and his sleep and social life. So unless dad forks over alot of cash this 500 inch fully tubbed cuda won't be pulling low 10 second passes for quite a few years. Enjoy the wait.
 
All good things take time and since he's young, he has time. Time to work on it, time to save money for it and since he probably lives at home he doesn't have many bills to pay. It's the perfect time to do it.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Probably had 13/31s under it. I think that is the largest tire you can get in there. The limiting factor is of course the frame rail unless you hack the wheel wells and stick the tire out of the body. You still have to massage the wheel opening to fit that tall of a tire though. It's a lot of work for not much tire, and again, not much adjustability either if you ask me.
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ya, he had 13/31/15's under it
 
Remember the taller the tire the more rubber you put on the ground too, it's not just the width. As the car plants the rear the tire spreads out lengthwise, that's why all the 10.5 tire cars run 33 inch tall tires. For that you need to stretch the wheel opening and install full fledged wheel tubs, not just mini tubs.

Let's face it you are young, and I presume you don't have 3 screaming kids that need to be fed and clothed, nevermind no mortgage and no wife that's always complaining you don't spend enough time with her, or help out around the house and with the kids, and how you don't meet her emotional needs, etc., etc. You get the picture. If you build the car the right way now you'll have a car for many, many years to come that you can do engine upgrades and stuff to later, but the chassis will always be there for you. Unlike the wife. :)
 
Guitar Jones said:
Remember the taller the tire the more rubber you put on the ground too, it's not just the width. As the car plants the rear the tire spreads out lengthwise, that's why all the 10.5 tire cars run 33 inch tall tires. For that you need to stretch the wheel opening and install full fledged wheel tubs, not just mini tubs.

Let's face it you are young, and I presume you don't have 3 screaming kids that need to be fed and clothed, nevermind no mortgage and no wife that's always complaining you don't spend enough time with her, or help out around the house and with the kids, and how you don't meet her emotional needs, etc., etc. You get the picture. If you build the car the right way now you'll have a car for many, many years to come that you can do engine upgrades and stuff to later, but the chassis will always be there for you. Unlike the wife. :)
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Exactly, i also still live at home. Not many people would think but i rake in about $1000 bucks a month, about 50% from my part time job, and usually the other 50% from selling parts and body jobs! From that $1000 about $998 of it goes to the car.

:bootysha::glasses9::snakeman::bootysha::bootysha:
 
440valiant said:
Exactly, i also still live at home. Not many people would think but i rake in about $1000 bucks a month, about 50% from my part time job, and usually the other 50% from selling parts and body jobs! From that $1000 about $998 of it goes to the car.

:bootysha::glasses9::snakeman::bootysha::bootysha:
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I know what you mean, I'm 17... not that many people expect me to make that money either but I can pay off the rampage and paint it both this year if I spend my money right.

BUT, painting my car is different than back-halving a car... thats still a little much to try and pull off with 1000 a month man. But, at the same time, it can be done... so if you think you can keep with it, go for it!!!! I would just have to many distractions.
 
Is this something you are going to do yourself, or are you going to have a shop do it?
 
blown340 said:
Is this something you are going to do yourself, or are you going to have a shop do it?
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Im good friends with a guy who owns a welding shop, and they do very nice work. He just finished redoing a 67 rs/ss 396 4 speed camaro and it looks really nice. He said to redo my front frame, install a 12 point cage , and do the backhalf for $1500-$2000( If i help him)


:cheers:
 
It is your car so make it how you want it. You have gotten some excellent opinions both ways so you have to decide what fits you. I have never built a car with much concern for selling it. I get concerned with my enjoyment and the quality of the build. I have a full chassis Pro Street car. I am building a back-half Pro Street '65 Mustang for my daughter, Sarah. I am also building a back-half '33 Chevy 2-door sedan Pro Street for my wife. Personally, I like that look with wall to wall meats under the back and the only thing you see between them is a chrome Dana 60 cover! People are asking me all the time to light the tires on my Demon but I just don't do it. Like the man said, how often do you want to spend $600 plus for big Mickeys!
I helped a friend on the other hand with his Scamp. We moved the springs in and mini tubbed it. I narrowed an 8 3/4 for him with B-body brakes. We had Jamie Frankland shorten and respline stock axles. He now has 10" Cragars on the back. It looks really good too with the 295 50 15s under it! It hooks really great using just an adjustable pinion snubber and it's a 4-speed!
Back-halfing a car is serious work and requires special skills in fabrication, welding, tools/equipment and .......measurement!
Have fun making your car the way you want it to be.
Pat
 
If you have this friend help you with a backhalf, definitely spend the money for a good kit from one of the major drag race suspension shops. Don't try to save a few bucks fabricating some boxed up frame rails or brackets. These guys build fully engineered and track tested pieces, worth the extra money.

I like Chassis Engineering myself, they make really nice pieces.

http://chassisengineering.com/
 
Mate,
if you want to back half be prepared to spend more than you bargained for, its way more work than you think and Id say its easyer to find a car that some one else has started and givin up, lost interest or just plain run out of cash,
do it if you want but if I had my time again I would just go with SS springs moved inboard with deep dish weld wheels, guys are running 9s on that simple cost affective set up now days

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440valiant said:
Well.... I need to start doing some planning for my barracuda build, my goal for the car is to have a FAST drag car, and also manners for the street. My plan right now is to backhalf the car, but what I was wondering was is it worth it to backhalf the car, or just mini tub it and live with that? I really want that pro-street look with steam rollers.

thanks:snakeman:
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mini tub with front and back modified, stock back frame, inboard springs or ladder bar coil-over you can get a 10.5Wx31x15 in and still have clearance. you don't need to back half your hotrod, put your money in the ladder bar kit.
 
I was actually looking at the auto-weld kit. It included everything you need( rails, 4 link bars, coil overs, 9 inch rear, axles, and for extra disc brakes and interior sheet metal. All for around 3K:dontknow:
 
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