Base timing. Really ?

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ok, so when we were talking about the FBO plate working against me, is it because the vacuum advance can get the advance as high as it needs to be under light throttle with the plate? Im assuming thats why being the full advance under WOT is normally around 34-38 with a decent cam nd all..or am i totally wrong..? In other words, the FBO plate is not hurting anything UNLESS using the vacuum advance? AND, if using the vacuum advance, you would want a spring tight enough to keep it from passing 34-38 total under WOT?
 
The plate should have no effect on the Vacuum advance. If it does I would mod it or throw it away.
Most of our hotrods will run very nice with 20 to 18* in the mechanical advance. That is to say:
at 34* power-timing. The idle-timing will be 18 to 20 degrees less or 14 to 16 degrees. This gives you a 2* window either way: you can set the power timing in the range of 32 to 36, and the idle-timing will follow along, plus minus 2 degrees.

The big deal is setting the rate of advance to not have it come in too early and cause detonation problems, yet fast enough to tap into as much power as your engine is capable of giving, at the all-in point, that you have selected. Since your engine is rarely if ever held at WOT at one particular rpm in the range of 3200 to 3600, I see no good reason to seek perfection in that range, this early in the tuning game. So just keep throwing springs at it until the all-in occurs in the range of 3200 to 3600, and go drive it.... with the V-can disconnected. Get the post 3800 power-timing figured, then the Part Throttle acceleration from stall to all-in, with various medium to heavy throttle settings, and finally WOT.
After you are sure the engine is detonation free under these conditions, then
you can start playing with the Vcan.

Ok, I see I misunderstood your post. Hang on; answers are inside the quote, Click to expand. answers in blue

>ok, so when we were talking about the FBO plate working against me, This is where I went off track.
The plate is used to limit the working range of the flyweights It is NOT needed on ALL distributors, but is useful perhaps in most factory ones. If your D has a working range of more than 18 or 20 degrees, then the plate can be a quick fix, to get it down to less than 18/20 which is often/usually a good thing. After the working range has been established,it should not be doing anything else. It is a useful tuning aid to help you meet your engines needs, without doing a bunch of welding and grinding.

is it because the vacuum advance can get the advance as high as it needs to be under light throttle with the plate?
Yes, the Vcan adds it's timing, as it is signaled to do, which could be at any time, from PT (PartThrottle) to perhaps 40/50% primary opening. But it does not begin until the vacuum is high enough to BEGIN bringing it in, which may not be until 1600rpm (an arbitrary number I pulled from a hat), or later . If you look into your passenger side primary bore you will see the advance port on the front somewhere, that is not mirrored on the drivers side.
On my Holley with my timing curve (14-idle/ 28*@2800), the Vcan brings 22* to the party, to cruise at 28+22=50*. But as I start to feed it throttle, the V-can timing starts to decrease. Somewhere just before the secondaries begin to open, the V-can timing has dropped to zero, and she is back to 28*@2800. From there the timing increases to a max of 32/34* all-in, in the range of 3200 to 3400. This is nice and safe, as to detonation, and makes plenty enough power for me, at 3200=38mph in second gear. Opening the secondaries gets me tirespin every time.

Im assuming thats why being the full advance under WOT is normally around 34-38 with a decent cam nd all..or am i totally wrong..?
Yes and no. 4 or 50 decades of testing has shown that HP MOPAR small blocks, on the dyno, like 34 to 38 degrees Power-Timing after about 3600rpm, depending of how efficient the chambers are.
But like I say, on the street you will never feel the difference of 3* less than perfection; but the engine will begin detonating with just 1* too much. Unabated detonation usually breaks stuff, so ALWAYS err on the safe side.

In other words, the FBO plate is not hurting anything UNLESS using the vacuum advance?
The plate should have nothing to do with the Vcan. They are separate and distinct, and each is tuned separately. The thing is this, in the life of your engine, maybe 1% of it is gonna be at WOT. The cast majority of time, time, the engine will be loafing along at less than 3600rpm. So, IMO, you wanna concentrate on getting your PT right, even if you have to sacrfice some sub-all-in timing (not PowerTiming) to get it. So if, to get the PT timing optimized, you have to delay the all-in rpm, or reduce the PowerTiming a couple of degrees, that's what I would do.
AND, if using the vacuum advance, you would want a spring tight enough to keep it from passing 34-38 total under WOT?
I guess yes. This is really two questions. Yes, the PowerTiming should fall in the zone of 32 to 38 depending on the efficiency of the chamber.
and this is achieved by the combination of flyweight mass and spring selection. BUT once again, the Vacuum Advance is a separate system and should not affect or be affected by the centrifugal system. One has nothing to do with the other.

Does that help?
 
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The plate should have no effect on the Vacuum advance. If it does I would mod it or throw it away.
Most of our hotrods will run very nice with 20 to 18* in the mechanical advance. That is to say:
at 34* power-timing. The idle-timing will be 18 to 20 degrees less or 14 to 16. This gives you a 2* window either way: you set the power timing in the range of 32 to 36, and the idle-timing will follow along, plus minus 2 degrees.
well im not sure why on the above posts it was stated that the limiter plate was hurting it..?
 
well im not sure why on the above posts it was stated that the limiter plate was hurting it..?
If you're talking generally, then generally
Don's plate stops the advance. To then get the initial and maximum where they should be, the distributor has to be rotatated. That shifts whole curve up. Alternatively the springs can be messed with and thats not easy for most folks. The secondary spring is the most critical and hardest to find for an advance that's been stopped early.

Welding up the inside of slots it cuts off the bottom of the timing curve. For most electronic distributors, that's it, all done. Curve is still correct when the initial is set like a pre-CAP engine (or higher initial if its hot cam).
360 Tune Up

Try this.
Sketch out a timing curve using a factory initial timing and rpm.
Then take the same curve and but start it with a higher initial timing. Just like if the distributor was rotated to get higher initial.
Sketch that out.
Where does the rest of timing ending up?
What happens when vacuum advance is added at normal driving speeds?

Now go back to the first timing curve you sketched.
Draw a line across where you want the initial to be.
Now where does timing end up when vacuum advance is added at normal driving speeds?
 
Nice example of plotting out the timing curve and making adjustments.
Timing Curve
He's using an MSD distributor so a two stage is difficult, but its still a good example.
 
The plate should have no effect on the Vacuum advance. If it does I would mod it or throw it away.
Most of our hotrods will run very nice with 20 to 18* in the mechanical advance. That is to say:
at 34* power-timing. The idle-timing will be 18 to 20 degrees less or 14 to 16 degrees. This gives you a 2* window either way: you can set the power timing in the range of 32 to 36, and the idle-timing will follow along, plus minus 2 degrees.

The big deal is setting the rate of advance to not have it come in too early and cause detonation problems, yet fast enough to tap into as much power as your engine is capable of giving, at the all-in point, that you have selected. Since your engine is rarely if ever held at WOT at one particular rpm in the range of 3200 to 3600, I see no good reason to seek perfection in that range, this early in the tuning game. So just keep throwing springs at it until the all-in occurs in the range of 3200 to 3600, and go drive it.... with the V-can disconnected. Get the post 3800 power-timing figured, then the Part Throttle acceleration from stall to all-in, with various medium to heavy throttle settings, and finally WOT.
After you are sure the engine is detonation free under these conditions, then
you can start playing with the Vcan.

Ok, I see I misunderstood your post. Hang on; answers are inside the quote, Click to expand. answers in blue



Does that help?

Great info. !
 
Think you guys may be missing why the plate often affects the use of vacuum advance.
Its not the plate.
Its the timing curve when the initial is changed.
 
When take the distributor apart enough to get to the advance plate you can see how much advance is in there. The plate (aka governer) will be stamped with the approx degrees. Also take all the measurments with a caliper so you have your own reference.
Measure the distance between the slots as well as the length of each slot. That way you'll have a complete reference.
upload_2020-12-16_21-48-34.png
 
Know you have me confused about how the plate could effect Vacuum Adv ?
The springs and weights alter the rotor movement .
The vacuum can move the reluctor plate.
They are 2 seperate parts
 
Know you have me confused about how the plate could effect Vacuum Adv ?
The springs and weights alter the rotor movement .
The vacuum can move the reluctor plate.
They are 2 seperate parts
I'll try to explain. If this is wrong then someone can delete this.
If we have 2 plates one with short slots and one with long slots. In both cases we want 34 deg at wide open throttle for best power.
Long slot = 10 deg at Idle and 34 deg wide open.
Short slot = 20 deg at idle and 34deg. wide open.
Long slot (10 deg)+ vac adv (?) = just right amount of timing at cruise rpm.
Short slot (20 deg) + vac adv (?) = too much timing at cruise rpm.
? represents the amount of timing your vac. adv. adds.
 
I'll try to explain. If this is wrong then someone can delete this.
If we have 2 plates one with short slots and one with long slots. In both cases we want 34 deg at wide open throttle for best power.
Long slot = 10 deg at Idle and 34 deg wide open.
Short slot = 20 deg at idle and 34deg. wide open.
Long slot (10 deg)+ vac adv (?) = just right amount of timing at cruise rpm.
Short slot (20 deg) + vac adv (?) = too much timing at cruise rpm.
? represents the amount of timing your vac. adv. adds.
You're getting closer.

Lets compare using the advance I measured on a parts store distributor (that I might have changed the spring).
With the inital timing set at 9° the max is 34°
So this distributor effectively has 25° in the slots.
What is the timing at 1500, 2000 and 2500 rpm?
upload_2020-12-18_10-45-35.png


Now lets take this same distributor and set the initial at 18° and limit the maximum advance to 34° using a plate or welding the outer end of the slots.
So this distributor effectively has 16° in the slots.
What is the timing at 1500, 2000 and 2500 rpm?
upload_2020-12-18_11-10-17.png

Now what happens when we add vacuum advance for most efficient/powerful lean fuel operation?
The vacuum advance that came with this distributor adds 22° with 16"Hg and higher.


For drag racing or even street its possible to get away with 30° at 1800 rpm because the converter/clutch is not fully loading the engine, and its moving through that rpm quickly. Even more so with drag racing because the engine isn't fully heat soaked. Probably couldn't get away with it lugging a trailer up a long steep hill unless the gearing was very low.
So without vac advance this curve is OK, and may in fact be an advantage at the strip (ignoring the slew loss at the high rpms).
 
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Timing added by Vacuum advance with the initial set at 9°BTDC.
upload_2020-12-18_11-51-38.png


Timing added by vacuum with the initial set at 18°BTDC.
upload_2020-12-18_11-59-37.png


Compare the timing at 1500, 2000 and 2500 rpm with moderate to light loads.

Big difference?

Can they both be providing the most efficiency and power for the load and fuel mixture?

Could one of them be advanced so much that it causes pinging in that rpm range?
 
But your vacuum advance can is seperate from the mechnical advance parts.
Your correct. The vacuum and mechanical adv. are not directly connected mechanically. They are connected because each contributes to the total amount of timing the engine sees at each RPM. As in initial + vacuum + mechanical = total
 
Correct ... but somewhere in this thread it was stated that the FBO limiter plate might effect the vacuum advance.
Maybe what he meant was : by using the limiter plate it could lower your total available combined advance .... I took it as it would mechanically interfere with the vacuum advance .
 
Correct ... but somewhere in this thread it was stated that the FBO limiter plate might effect the vacuum advance.
Maybe what he meant was : by using the limiter plate it could lower your total available combined advance .... I took it as it would mechanically interfere with the vacuum advance .
 
OK, Halifax, so what should i do in my situation? I know 18 initial works nice and from reading a lot of cammed up engines, it will probably like somewhere between 34-36 total..SO, should i just ad a second lightweight spring to slow down the advance or? Also, i am interested in trying the vacuum advance but im afraid that when i am at a cruise and the vacuum advance is working it most and that split second when i tromp down on it, im afraid it will ping that split second it takes for the vacuum to drop off and release the vacuum advance..Wish i could pay you to put this thing on your distributor machine and set it up how it needs to be..
 
Call me I can probably walk you through it way easier than back and forth here.
 
OK, Halifax, so what should i do in my situation? I know 18 initial works nice and from reading a lot of cammed up engines, it will probably like somewhere between 34-36 total..SO, should i just ad a second lightweight spring to slow down the advance or? Also, i am interested in trying the vacuum advance but im afraid that when i am at a cruise and the vacuum advance is working it most and that split second when i tromp down on it, im afraid it will ping that split second it takes for the vacuum to drop off and release the vacuum advance..Wish i could pay you to put this thing on your distributor machine and set it up how it needs to be..

When you stomp it the vac goes away .
Will it ping for that split second it takes for the vcan to react to the vacuum going away ?
Or will it be such a fraction of time it cannot be noticed ?
thanks,
 
Timing added by Vacuum advance with the initial set at 9°BTDC.
View attachment 1715651716

Timing added by vacuum with the initial set at 18°BTDC.
View attachment 1715651722

Compare the timing at 1500, 2000 and 2500 rpm with moderate to light loads.

Big difference?

Can they both be providing the most efficiency and power for the load and fuel mixture?

Could one of them be advanced so much that it causes pinging in that rpm range?

Mattax,
thanks for the info. I just caught on to the graphs. cool
 
So im trying to figure out how to start using the vacuum advance.Ok, like i said, it likes 20 intial and around 34-36 total.. So, being that the vacuum advance starts working as soon as the engine fires up, im assuming i can no loger set the initial at 20 because when the engine starts and the vacuum kicks in, it will jump WAY up to whatever the vacuum advance gives PLUS the initial? so, im assuming this..if the vacuum gives 15 degrees of advance at idle, then i should set the inital for 5 degrees so when it fires up and the vacuum advances kicks in at idle, it will have 20 like its supposed to? OR am i all wrong and it actually needs to be set 20 initially to even get her fired up easily?
 
So im trying to figure out how to start using the vacuum advance.Ok, like i said, it likes 20 intial and around 34-36 total.. So, being that the vacuum advance starts working as soon as the engine fires up, im assuming i can no loger set the initial at 20 because when the engine starts and the vacuum kicks in, it will jump WAY up to whatever the vacuum advance gives PLUS the initial? so, im assuming this..if the vacuum gives 15 degrees of advance at idle, then i should set the inital for 5 degrees so when it fires up and the vacuum advances kicks in at idle, it will have 20 like its supposed to? OR am i all wrong and it actually needs to be set 20 initially to even get her fired up easily?


You should have the VA hooked to ported (timed) vacuum. It should not pull timing at idle
 
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