A great dream to haveIf he's was gonna swap to larger engine might as well buy one with the larger engine in the 1st place. For some reason his dream seems to mildly hop up a 318 A Body.
A great dream to haveIf he's was gonna swap to larger engine might as well buy one with the larger engine in the 1st place. For some reason his dream seems to mildly hop up a 318 A Body.
IMO, for your stated usage;Wish me luck as I'm going to be checking out a couple of duster's next week. I'm only asking these questions as a quide, both are 318 cars but one is a 2 barrel. Once the car is home I'm going to check it out completely and if everything checks out okay I'd like to do a 4 barrel swap and was wondering what size carb and intake manifold to use. I thought about a better coil and module. A curve kit and a good dual exhaust system. The car will be a cruiser only and probably the engine will never see more than 4500 rpm's. I'm open to a stall converter and a different gear ratio. Maybe even a mild cam.
Car is totally stock. Probably a good dual exhaust system would be first thingIMO, for your stated usage;
The best cam for this application is the stock one.
Any other cam, with no other changes, is pretty much a waste of money/time.
If it doesn't already have a 4bbl, but does have the typical 2.76 gears, and a stock stall, then installing a 4bbl is for your stated usage, a waste. The reason is that with say a 26.5"tire, 2000rpm in 2.45 low gear, is gonna be about 21 mph. Your 2bbl is not gonna roll off the power until maybe 3000 rpm, which would then be 30ish mph.This is about the time a 4bbl will begin, I said begin, to make power over the 2bbl.
Are you willing to wait?
By far the best bang for the buck for your your 318 Duster is a 2800 stall.
And next best is, 4-series gears; But, I don't suggest that lol. With a 2800TC, 3.23s would be adequate in your combo, and you can still hit the hiway.
The higher stall will allow the engine to spool up and find at least 20/25 horsepower over a sub-2000 stall. The 4bbl will not even begin to touch that at 2000 stall. nor will any streetable gears at zero mph. Nor will a cam until say 4500 rpm or more.
Only after the Convertor and gears are in, would I think about a 4bbl, and at no time, for your combo, would I consider a cam with a later closing intake. If you install a 4bbl, then more than likely you will need dual exhaust, but the iron log manifolds may still be a choke-point.
These are my opinions based on 50 years experience.
Lets say you put a 4bbl on it and it makes plus 15hp at 4400rpm which with 2.76 gears will be about 45mph. and it didn't START making power until 30/35 mph When you stuff it into Second at say 4600, the rpm will plummet to 2700, and that takes care of performance. tuck tail and slink off the track. Cuz at 2700, the 4bbl is not making any hp over the 2bbl, unless it's like maybe 2hp, lol.
Lets say you are a lil disappointed and install 3.91 gears. Now the 4bbl will START making power at 22mph, going to 38 mph. When you shift, the Rs will again fall to about 2700, and so now, yur done 7 mph sooner.
So now yur really ticked
And finally, you install a convertor, unlocking your 318 from it's drudgery of lack of footpounds, the engine spools up, finds a bunch of more footpounds and begins it's Rapid Transit to shift rpm.
Since I already told you this would happen, just do it first. Maybe you will be satisfied with what you get, and postpone the other mods. I mean, you said it was a cruiser; right?
Ok one more; Say you are idling down the road with those 26.5 tires and a 2000 stall, doing 35mph at 1200rpm, in top gear. Let's say you wanna impress the raging-hormones teenager in the POS tuner-car in the next lane, who is incessantly burping his throttle to keep his tiny dick hard. So then, as soon as you floor it, your engine spools up to around 2000, well not much power there yet, so the trans calls for a downshift, and hits oh say 2000 at 35mph, now in Second gear, Hmmm. So the trans goes to First gear and at WOT, the Rs jump to 3600, there ya go but, the tuner-creep is long gone.
Next, lets install a 2800 TC and 3.23s
Ok so, at 35mph, yur cruising at 1400 in Drive. On the downshift into First at WOT, the rpm jumps to 4200, oh chit, yur just about at shift rpm, but screaming at or near peak power, none the less; so you are kicking that tuner-boy, at least for a second, lol, as the engine races to shift rpm. But hey, the smile on your face is hard to ignore.
The 2bbl is still on it, as is/are the single exhaust and factory cam.
because 318 cars are cheaper than 340/360/stroker carsIf he's was gonna swap to larger engine might as well buy one with the larger engine in the 1st place. For some reason his dream seems to mildly hop up a 318 A Body.
not if it was mine.Car is totally stock. Probably a good dual exhaust system would be first thing
dual exhaust is the forerunner to the 4bbl he wants to add. Also, just for the conversation (and not argument), our '77 van with a stock 318 2bbl dropped 3 tenths and gained 2 mph in the 1/8 mile by going from a true dual exhaust to headers and duals. So 318 2bbls do appreciate more flow too......not if it was mine.
your stock 318 will not outrun the single exhaust with 2.76 gears, until screaming in top gear at/or near the torque peak, which translates to 77 mph or so..... unless it has been crushed, or the Y-pipe was welded up poorly.
But, if that's where you want to start, I've said my piece.
Where would you start?not if it was mine.
your stock 318 will not outrun the single exhaust with 2.76 gears, until screaming in top gear at/or near the torque peak, which translates to 77 mph or so..... unless it has been crushed, or the Y-pipe was welded up poorly.
But, if that's where you want to start, I've said my piece.
I think, at least the way I read it, he wouldn’t.Where would you start?
True but seems the OP wants to science out a 200-250 hp 318.That’s a small Comp Cam, I wouldn’t bother with a custom cut at such a low performance level. Just add 1.6 rockers and Rhodes lifters on the intake only.
already said it.Where would you start?
Yep. I remember AJ being the naysayer , didn't align with his math.How about follow 318willrun’s 318 car that performs somehow even though some say you can’t add a cam carb etc.. to no stall and gears and get results.
Ouch! LMAO!If you really want street friendly power add replacement magnum heads and beer barrel intake with headers and duals.
Yep! 318 hater. For good reason. It ain’t easy waking up a low compression 318 and even worse when it’s a smog era 318. They will perform good for what they are but they’ll never perform well. Not until you change the pistons and heads to something much nicer.Yep. I remember AJ being the naysayer , didn't align with his math.
I’m surprised you have to ask.What's this comment suppose to mean?
I forgot, there is a lot of silly stuff that goes on here that's for sure.I’m surprised you have to ask.
I have to agree here for sure but then again in general I think the question was beyond that point in an assumption the engine and car are good to go.318WR hit the nail on the head: if you're starting with dog ****, no amount of sugar is gonna make it ice cream. comprehensive diagnostic to start. always.
FWIW - The 340 cam is a good bit bigger and any compression loose is only going to make the already (possible) 7.9-1 ratio seem even worse. The 340 cam also uses “340” cam” valve springs. I think it to insure more rpm. Personally I think the factory did well to equip the 340 engine with the minimum of 3.23 gears.from there, i personally think that a dual plane with a reasonable 4bbl carb and headers is a viable path-- despite some naysayers. is it a world beater with the 2bbl cam? no. but it's a reasonably priced path to something that's decent and all of that will directly attribute to any build going forward.
if you're going small cam, get the 340 repop. you're not building a race motor, it won't suck out too much compression, it doesn't have enough lift to need special springs or machine work, it doesn't have enough duration to need a converter or gears.
even with a 2bbl it makes for a ripper. 340 repop cam in a 318 is a solid combo and it's cheap as chips. i'll say it till i'm blue in the face
100% dead nuts ball crackin on.everybody is really over thinking it. it doens't need to be perfectly optimized, it just has to be a decent cruiser.
yeah i should've made the caveat of maybe not a smogger, but a early 318 would be fine. but the reasonable assumption of running a 340 cam with stock springs is that either you're not revving the **** out of it, the valve's will float, or it just won't get there because it doesn't have enough carb or head. but more along the lines of you don't need anything out of the ordinary to run it.FWIW - The 340 cam is a good bit bigger and any compression loose is only going to make the already (possible) 7.9-1 ratio seem even worse. The 340 cam also uses “340” cam” valve springs. I think it to insure more rpm. Personally I think the factory did well to equip the 340 engine with the minimum of 3.23 gears.