Basic 318 Mods

-
Nothing like a good strong runner in the street!

I had an318-3spd manual trans Duster w/3.23’s that I loved to whip my buddy in his 350 GM. He couldn’t understand how a smaller 318 would whip him so bad.

It starts with a well tuned and optimized engine and a stupid kid that held his foot to the floor on gear shifts while the left foot was down all the way, it would move to the left and allow the pedal to slam up on shifts.

Redline? We don’t need no stinkin REDLINES!!!!

Go until it noses over and then change a gear!

Ahhhhhhh the good old days of stupidity and carelessness while not having a concern in the world. The biggest problem was, where the next concert was and with what chick am I going with? Biggest bummer in life was the cost of insurance or that dang hang over while driving to work.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Nothing like a good strong runner in the street!

I had an318-3spd manual trans Duster w/3.23’s that I loved to whip my buddy in his 350 GM. He couldn’t understand how a smaller 318 would whip him so bad.

It starts with a well tuned and optimized engine and a stupid kid that held his foot to the floor on gear shifts while the left foot was down all the way, it would move to the left and allow the pedal to slam up on shifts.

Redline? We don’t need no stinkin REDLINES!!!!

Go until it noses over and then change a gear!

Ahhhhhhh the good old days of stupidity and carelessness while not having a concern in the world. The biggest problem was, where the next concert was and with what chick am I going with? Biggest bummer in life was the cost of insurance or that dang hang over while driving to work.
Click to expand...
Back in the day when I drove a manual transmission, once I got rolling I never touched the clutch pedal again until I slowed down
 
Dan the man said:
Back in the day when I drove a manual transmission, once I got rolling I never touched the clutch pedal again until I slowed down
Click to expand...
In normal, regular driving, that’s me mostly. For sure, just slip it in and out.

I can shift quicker when pressing in the clutch. Way back when…..
I had guys asking me what shift kit I used. I’d tell them it’s a “Left foot express.” Then have to show them not only the third pedal but prove it is actually a manual trans. That was a lot of time getting it down to that degree behind the wheel.
 
rumblefish360 said:
In normal, regular driving, that’s me mostly. For sure, just slip it in and out.

I can shift quicker when pressing in the clutch. Way back when…..
I had guys asking me what shift kit I used. I’d tell them it’s a “Left foot express.” Then have to show them not only the third pedal but prove it is actually a manual trans. That was a lot of time getting it down to that degree behind the wheel.
Click to expand...
I also always use my left foot. Don't like fixing transmissions. No tack, just a good ear. A tight seat belt also helps. LOL
 
Dan the man said:
Where would you start?
Click to expand...
What is your goal?

Seen ya start a ton of threads on 318 mods.
Looks like you want a mild torque engine aka idle to 4500 rpm.

First torque is mainly a product of displacement it generally ranges from low of 1 to max 1.67 lbs-ft per cid a mild engine is generally gonna fall in the 1.1-1.19 lbs-ft = 350-380 lbs-ft for a mild 318.


I like the 318 and think it has far more potential than most but that ability comes with rpm's, hp what moves drives accelerates your car and is a percentage of torque at different rpm's. In the range we care about here, hp is 50% - 100% of torque from 2626-5252 rpm's a 1.9% gain for every 100 rpm's. If your ok with those limitations fine but if you really want better idle-4500/5000 rpm power add displacement. Through cid and or blower/turbo etc..
 
Swinger 340 said:
I also always use my left foot. Don't like fixing transmissions. No tack, just a good ear. A tight seat belt also helps. LOL
Click to expand...
The above description was a good, 35 years ago of back street alley racing days.

In a normal driving condition, the stick should change the gears nice and easy without a grinding noise. If I miss a gear shift change, clutch pedal goes in.
 
1. Recurved distributor, properly set up vacuum advance.

2. Headers and decent exhaust. This is the true zero compromise mod. Even the most mild setup will benefit from headers. And contrary to old school train of thought, long tube headers will ADD low/mid range torque.

3. Cam. A modern, MILD cam, will give you more power above 4000 rpm, without sacrificing much on the bottom.

4. Good intake and carb. Just a modern dual plane and something like a Holley 650.

5. Heads. Lots of info and opinions on this one. But just about any 360 heads, or if you want to get fancy you can adapt the magnum heads, it's not a big change.

Do 1-4 and you should be able to easily break 300 hp, without destroying the streetable manners of the vehicle. Do no. 5 and it's probably around 350. Still very mild and street friendly.

I'm going to copy this post and repaste it from now on when the 318 with mild mods question pops up. :lol:
 
273 said:
What is your goal?

Seen ya start a ton of threads on 318 mods.
Looks like you want a mild torque engine aka idle to 4500 rpm.

First torque is mainly a product of displacement it generally ranges from low of 1 to max 1.67 lbs-ft per cid a mild engine is generally gonna fall in the 1.1-1.19 lbs-ft = 350-380 lbs-ft for a mild 318.


I like the 318 and think it has far more potential than most but that ability comes with rpm's, hp what moves drives accelerates your car and is a percentage of torque at different rpm's. In the range we care about here, hp is 50% - 100% of torque from 2626-5252 rpm's a 1.9% gain for every 100 rpm's. If your ok with those limitations fine but if you really want better idle-4500/5000 rpm power add displacement. Through cid and or blower/turbo etc..
Click to expand...
I do want a mild torque engine for the street. Good throttle response and street manners. I don't need a 400+ engine
 
273 said:
What is your goal?

Seen ya start a ton of threads on 318 mods.
Looks like you want a mild torque engine aka idle to 4500 rpm.

First torque is mainly a product of displacement it generally ranges from low of 1 to max 1.67 lbs-ft per cid a mild engine is generally gonna fall in the 1.1-1.19 lbs-ft = 350-380 lbs-ft for a mild 318.


I like the 318 and think it has far more potential than most but that ability comes with rpm's, hp what moves drives accelerates your car and is a percentage of torque at different rpm's. In the range we care about here, hp is 50% - 100% of torque from 2626-5252 rpm's a 1.9% gain for every 100 rpm's. If your ok with those limitations fine but if you really want better idle-4500/5000 rpm power add displacement. Through cid and or blower/turbo etc..
Click to expand...
My main goal is to have a car that has good throttle response and low to midrange torque, have the ability to get out of its own way and to have some stop light to stop light fun once in awhile. Idle quality is not a issue but to have a good torque cam means a smooth Idle, I wouldn't mind a little rumble at the pipes. From the research I've done looks like the engine will mainly be off Idle to like 4,500 - 4,800 rpm's. I may be wrong here but aren't most torque cams have a max duration at 0.050" of 204* / 216*?
 
Dan the man said:
I do want a mild torque engine for the street.
Click to expand...
Your goal is to try to build a 318 to what a 360 already is which is fine. But it's up to you how far you want to take it. Basics 4bbl exhaust tune, then there's cam gears stall OD heads beer barrel intake coatings low restriction rings roller cam and rockers etc.. Tons of little gains to spend $$$$ on. Just say when. You should come up with a combo from engine to wheels and ask for critiques these open ended questions don't really zero anything in.
Dan the man said:
Good throttle response and street manners.
Click to expand...
It's up to you to figure out those compromises, obviously some are gonna say stay stock and others think you can go a fair bit with mods.
Dan the man said:
I don't need a 400+ engine
Click to expand...
I understand that
 
Dan the man said:
My main goal is to have a car that has good throttle response and low to midrange torque,
Click to expand...
It's basically gonna be where it is stock might be minor gains here.
Dan the man said:
have the ability to get out of its own way and to have some stop light to stop light fun once in awhile.
Click to expand...
The trick is how far can you take it without majorly sacrificing the first goal
Dan the man said:
Idle quality is not a issue but to have a good torque cam means a smooth Idle, I wouldn't mind a little rumble at the pipes. From the research I've done looks like the engine will mainly be off Idle to like 4,500 - 4,800 rpm's. I may be wrong here but aren't most torque cams have a max duration at 0.050" of 204* / 216*?
Click to expand...
This is the main thing everything hangs on, bad choices on 4bbl headers even heads isn't overly gonna ruin driveability compared to what a wrong cam can. But really everything you want is on the mild side less chance of going severely wrong. I'd pick a cam on at least 110 lsa in the 205-210 duration .450-.500 lift. But if you want more pep than that go with heads not more cam. The less stall and gear the less cam you should go if 3.55+ (taller tires more gear) and 2800+ stall is in the cards you could go with more cam, a deep first gear can also work.

Problem is these are your compromises to figure out you might have to try a few different cams carbs etc.. To figure it out. There's a big difference between AJ and 318willrun idea how to make a 318 go and each works for them. Your gonna have to find yours.
 
Dan the man said:
My main goal is to have a car that has good throttle response and low to midrange torque, have the ability to get out of its own way and to have some stop light to stop light fun once in awhile. Idle quality is not a issue but to have a good torque cam means a smooth Idle, I wouldn't mind a little rumble at the pipes. From the research I've done looks like the engine will mainly be off Idle to like 4,500 - 4,800 rpm's. I may be wrong here but aren't most torque cams have a max duration at 0.050" of 204* / 216*?
Click to expand...
Things to consider:
  • Opinions vary on what is "spunky". It's hard for us to ration what is spunky to you. You have to determine what is spunky for you.
  • I ran 15.9's with a stock 318 2bbl in a b-body. It would fry the tire through any intersection if I wanted it to. It was not my fastest 318 2bbl either, I had one in a Demon that was faster but I never took it to the track. If that would make you happy, then you may not need anything but an up-to-snuff 318 2bbl.
  • I think you should decide if you are happy after you buy the car and drive it. If a car feels really lazy, slow, and you are unsatisfied, then a simple 4 bbl will NOT fix that.
 
318willrun said:
Things to consider:
  • Opinions vary on what is "spunky". It's hard for us to ration what is spunky to you. You have to determine what is spunky for you.
  • I ran 15.9's with a stock 318 2bbl in a b-body. It would fry the tire through any intersection if I wanted it to. It was not my fastest 318 2bbl either, I had one in a Demon that was faster but I never took it to the track. If that would make you happy, then you may not need anything but an up-to-snuff 318 2bbl.
  • I think you should decide if you are happy after you buy the car and drive it. If a car feels really lazy, slow, and you are unsatisfied, then a simple 4 bbl will NOT fix that.
Click to expand...
Once it's home I'm going to drive it for awhile. Who knows, I may very well be satisfied with it being a 2 barrel and dual exhaust. First thing is going to be double sure that it has good suspension and brakes
 
Dan the man said:
Once it's home I'm going to drive it for awhile. Who knows, I may very well be satisfied with it being a 2 barrel and dual exhaust. First thing is going to be double sure that it has good suspension and brakes
Click to expand...
Like I mentioned, mine is just fine for how I drive it.
 
Dan the man said:
Wish me luck as I'm going to be checking out a couple of duster's next week. I'm only asking these questions as a quide, both are 318 cars but one is a 2 barrel. Once the car is home I'm going to check it out completely and if everything checks out okay I'd like to do a 4 barrel swap and was wondering what size carb and intake manifold to use. I thought about a better coil and module. A curve kit and a good dual exhaust system. The car will be a cruiser only and probably the engine will never see more than 4500 rpm's. I'm open to a stall converter and a different gear ratio. Maybe even a mild cam.
Click to expand...
Considering you state cruiser and 4500RPM, I like the Edelbrock RPM Airgap manifold. One area to pay attention to before purchasing an Airgap, is hood clearance. The Airgap is a bit taller and could cause interference problems. A performer RPM should clear in that case. Bite the bullet and purchase the real McCoy Edelbrock insread of the cheap knockoffs. With that the 500CFM AVS2 carb that comes with annular primary boosters would be a good choice. The 650 AVS2 would also work well.
These days with fuel costs likely only to increase, I would determine what gears are installed now. 3.23 or 3.55 work well with an OD transmission.
 
Last edited:
What I've learned to preach to myself and others is:

"YOU WILL PAY"

In other words, there really aren't any shortcuts to this hobby. You can start with a "cheap" project and restore it, or you can start out with something already nice and enjoy it. Either way the actual cost is close. In fact it favors the already nice car because you usually will spend more restoring than buying.
 
Dan the man said:
Wish me luck as I'm going to be checking out a couple of duster's next week. I'm only asking these questions as a quide, both are 318 cars but one is a 2 barrel. Once the car is home I'm going to check it out completely and if everything checks out okay I'd like to do a 4 barrel swap and was wondering what size carb and intake manifold to use. I thought about a better coil and module. A curve kit and a good dual exhaust system. The car will be a cruiser only and probably the engine will never see more than 4500 rpm's. I'm open to a stall converter and a different gear ratio. Maybe even a mild cam.
Click to expand...
If you need a spare reasonable
sandiego.craigslist.org

1971 plymouth duster for sale by owner - Oceanside, CA - craigslist

71 duster. Mom bought it new in 71. 225 slant 6 automatic, power steering, bench seat, radio, heater. Unmolested car. Been sitting for 10 years. Some very minor rust. Ran great when parked. Will...
sandiego.craigslist.org
 
good artical bout bolt ons for a already solid running engine...
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0312-318-long-block-bolt-ons/#:~:text=Our 318 now produced 282 hp at 5,000,hp by an intake, carb, and cam change

good artical for building a spunky 318 basic low down parts book bolt together no machining, nothing exotic, rare, unusual, or excessively expensive parts. ect ect..
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0409-318-engine-build/

both of these are just basic hotrodding 101 and can be duplicated by just bout any body with a open mind and a lil desire! ...DWB
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top