BBP conversion

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63Tigerlily

63Tigerlily

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I'm looking to change my wife's 63 Dart to BBP so I can: 1- Run a bigger brake and 2- Run BBP Astro Slots that I got from a buddy.
I have a stock booster for a 63. I am not necessarily wanting to change to disc brakes.

My question is, has anyone ever gone from SBP drums to the bigger Drums, and what would I need to do that? A whole spindle setup off a later year? A whole rear end off a later year?
As far as an aftermarket disc kit goes, this adds a buch of complexity that I don't think I need in a little cruiser with a /6, and a bigger set of drums would suit me fine (my 58 F1 runs drums all around and they work great).

Am I money ahead by just going with a kit and risking all the nonsense involved with aftermarket systems? Can someone point me to a thread regarding 4 wheel conversions to BBP on an early A-body? I couldn't find one. The car is my avatar.
 
they never made BBP front drums for a bodies. if you wanted bigger drums, some cars came with 10" brakes vs the 9's which would entail grabbing a whole spindle set up.

which gives you okay stopping power and a parts supply that is rapidly drying up. i mean, the consumables are still available, but if you need a hub you're searching the net or scouring swaps, yards or looking for take offs.

a 73~76 factory disc set up gives you BBP and is no more complicated than a drum system, and has TONS of parts availability.

out back, you can call up doctor diff and he can provide BBP axles for your 7.25
www.doctordiff.com

Mopar Axle Pkg 7 1/4" A-Body 5X4 1/2" Bolt Pattern (pair)

DoctorDiff 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern conversion axles fit '62-'72 A-body 7.25" rearends.
www.doctordiff.com www.doctordiff.com

honestly though, you'd probably be better off upgrading to a different rear end that is not only stronger but has better parts availability. 8 1/4, 8.75, or a ford 8.8 out of a ranger for drums or out of an explorer if you want discs.

upfront the swap is fairly straight forward, i'd say no more difficult than upgrading to larger drums, and there's lots of options for upgrades in suspension components and in the braking components as well.

the one thing i would do, if it hasn't been done already is 100% upgrade to a dual master instead of the factory single pot.
 
junkyardhero said:
they never made BBP front drums for a bodies. if you wanted bigger drums, some cars came with 10" brakes vs the 9's which would entail grabbing a whole spindle set up.

which gives you okay stopping power and a parts supply that is rapidly drying up. i mean, the consumables are still available, but if you need a hub you're searching the net or scouring swaps, yards or looking for take offs.

a 73~76 factory disc set up gives you BBP and is no more complicated than a drum system, and has TONS of parts availability.

out back, you can call up doctor diff and he can provide BBP axles for your 7.25
[/URL]

honestly though, you'd probably be better off upgrading to a different rear end that is not only stronger but has better parts availability. 8 1/4, 8.75, or a ford 8.8 out of a ranger for drums or out of an explorer if you want discs.

upfront the swap is fairly straight forward, i'd say no more difficult than upgrading to larger drums, and there's lots of options for upgrades in suspension components and in the braking components as well.

the one thing i would do, if it hasn't been done already is 100% upgrade to a dual master instead of the factory single pot.
Click to expand...
This all came about because I scored the original boster and was planning to upgrade her to the dual pot. But, the 13" wheels look stupid, and since I found the 14" 4.5 circle Astro Slots which require a bolt pattern upgrade.
OEM engineers got alot of stuff right, and after going through some aftermarket parts performance issues on my 39 ford, I don't want to reinvent the wheel.
The wife is also not super interested in changing anything. She just wants to drive it.
 
junkyardhero said:
they never made BBP front drums for a bodies. if you wanted bigger drums, some cars came with 10" brakes vs the 9's which would entail grabbing a whole spindle set up.

which gives you okay stopping power and a parts supply that is rapidly drying up. i mean, the consumables are still available, but if you need a hub you're searching the net or scouring swaps, yards or looking for take offs.

a 73~76 factory disc set up gives you BBP and is no more complicated than a drum system, and has TONS of parts availability.

out back, you can call up doctor diff and he can provide BBP axles for your 7.25
[/URL]

honestly though, you'd probably be better off upgrading to a different rear end that is not only stronger but has better parts availability. 8 1/4, 8.75, or a ford 8.8 out of a ranger for drums or out of an explorer if you want discs.

upfront the swap is fairly straight forward, i'd say no more difficult than upgrading to larger drums, and there's lots of options for upgrades in suspension components and in the braking components as well.

the one thing i would do, if it hasn't been done already is 100% upgrade to a dual master instead of the factory single pot.
Click to expand...
Hey just help but yea they did make a 10” front drum for a bodies in 73-76. Given ma mopars propensity to repurpose parts I’m sure one of those would work.
Now I start down a new discussion that will light this thread up. The B Body 10” drum spindle is the same spindle as the later A. So a B body lower ball joint and spindle should work.
Upper control arm you would use a 73-76 upper control arm.
The control arm change is mandatory to change to big bolt pattern.
Now that we’ve discussed what has to actually change on the suspension, I would strongly recommend buying the front disc conversion. All the parts I just said that need to be changed will come new. The rear you can swap the axles in the 7 1/4 or find a later 7 1/4 complete.
Your location is So Cal mine is as well. PM me I have a 7 1/4 I’m willing to give to the first taker.
 
Can the '73-76 BBP disc parts be used on an early A?
 
AbodyBB said:
I believe so. You need to use the later upper control arm as well
Click to expand...
there is also adapters for the upper ball joint taper to take them from small joint to large joint. so you don't *need* later arms, but if you they're in poor shape and the bushings & joints need replaced it's more economical to go to the later arm.
 
63Tigerlily said:
This all came about because I scored the original boster and was planning to upgrade her to the dual pot. But, the 13" wheels look stupid, and since I found the 14" 4.5 circle Astro Slots which require a bolt pattern upgrade.
OEM engineers got alot of stuff right, and after going through some aftermarket parts performance issues on my 39 ford, I don't want to reinvent the wheel.
The wife is also not super interested in changing anything. She just wants to drive it.
Click to expand...
oh, i understand completely.

to me the planned upgrade to a dual pot is a must no matter which braking choice to make. if you stick with factory bits, the upgrade is really not all that involved. the parts are out there, and you can put together the correct combo of components pretty reasonably.

one benefit that a lot of people over look is the ability to walk into a parts store and say in need [blank] brake part for [this huge production swath of cars] vs. i need [blank] brake part for a 63 dart and then be told it's NLA, doesn't exist on their computer or is special order only and ships from the mfgr on the 2nd full moon of the spring quarter.
 
AbodyBB said:
Hey just help but yea they did make a 10” front drum for a bodies in 73-76. Given ma mopars propensity to repurpose parts I’m sure one of those would work.
Now I start down a new discussion that will light this thread up. The B Body 10” drum spindle is the same spindle as the later A. So a B body lower ball joint and spindle should work.
Upper control arm you would use a 73-76 upper control arm.
The control arm change is mandatory to change to big bolt pattern.
Now that we’ve discussed what has to actually change on the suspension, I would strongly recommend buying the front disc conversion. All the parts I just said that need to be changed will come new. The rear you can swap the axles in the 7 1/4 or find a later 7 1/4 complete.
Your location is So Cal mine is as well. PM me I have a 7 1/4 I’m willing to give to the first taker.
Click to expand...
yes, they did make a 10" drum for 73~76. however it is small bolt pattern AND it requires a different spindle, which is the same as the disc spindle in the attachment of the upper ball joint so you need UCA's or the adapter sleeve. back to square one of having to source parts that are NLA, and will likely need to be rebuilt with parts that are, or can be difficult to come by.
 
63Tigerlily said:
My question is, has anyone ever gone from SBP drums to the bigger Drums, and what would I need to do that?
Click to expand...
friend of mine used his road runner drum brakes on his scamp. need the spindle and drum assemble and the large ball joint upers if i remember correctly..
 
So I have a spindle from a 73 10” a body set up. I don’t offer it because it uses an oddball wheel bearing.
I’m suggesting the B body spindle because it uses the most common wheel bearing as well as the BBP drum.
They all use the same lower ball joint. And yes you need to use the later style “big upper balljoint”. I don’t recommend the adaptors because they seem to be a one and done solution. No separating the ball joint without replacing the adaptor.
 
Now on to the parts availability. Spindles rotors and calipers are all available new. Search eBay or go to Dr Diff. The kits are everywhere and not that expensive. Upper control arm can be sourced new and used.
 
Find big ball joint upper control arms from a 73-76 A body and put new ball joints and bushings that match THOSE year control arms, not your car year model. Then find spindles with drum brakes from a 70-71 B or E body and rebuild them with new brake stuff and new lower ball joints that would go on whatever car the spindles came from. Bolt all that mess into your 63 Dart, bleed and adjust the brakes and go down the road! You will need a brake distribution block from whatever car the front brake setup comes from too.
 
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I think if I can source the right OEM components, I'll go that route, depending on shipping needs. I might call a couple aftermarket mfgs and see what they say, as well.
 
63Tigerlily said:
I think if I can source the right OEM components, I'll go that route, depending on shipping needs. I might call a couple aftermarket mfgs and see what they say, as well.
Click to expand...
the right BBP disc OEM stuff?

cuz if so that's easy-peasy lemon sqeezey.
(i'm happy to help, i'm in LA, shoot me a PM)

if you're still on the drum line, this might work for you

1968 Dodge Coronet Used Auto Parts | Sun Valley

1968 Dodge Coronet used auto parts available. Get a great deal on parts for your 1968 Dodge Coronet at LKQ Pick Your Part - Sun Valley
www.lkqpickyourpart.com www.lkqpickyourpart.com
 
I must say that I am pretty excited to slap everything together soon. I have a set of disc brakes/spindles/UCA's from @themoparman73 and the 7 1/4 rear from @AbodyBB.
I had planned on popping in a set of 1.03" T-bars, but now I'm worried they'll be too stiff with the slant.

It's the wife's car, and she doesn't seem to even comprehend the mushiness of the suspension, BUT she does notice the bump-stop hit because the car is lowered.
I'm more concerned about keeping it low without bottoming out than I am with the cornering characteristics since it's a mild-custom cruiser for a lady.

Who has put the 1.03s in a /6 A and how did you like them? I was on the Slant 6 forums and the opinions are all over the place. Most everyone here is upgrading for a V8 swap, which I am not doing, but a slant isn't much lighter than the small V8s anyway.
 
63Tigerlily said:
I must say that I am pretty excited to slap everything together soon. I have a set of disc brakes/spindles/UCA's from @themoparman73 and the 7 1/4 rear from @AbodyBB.
I had planned on popping in a set of 1.03" T-bars, but now I'm worried they'll be too stiff with the slant.

It's the wife's car, and she doesn't seem to even comprehend the mushiness of the suspension, BUT she does notice the bump-stop hit because the car is lowered.
I'm more concerned about keeping it low without bottoming out than I am with the cornering characteristics since it's a mild-custom cruiser for a lady.

Who has put the 1.03s in a /6 A and how did you like them? I was on the Slant 6 forums and the opinions are all over the place. Most everyone here is upgrading for a V8 swap, which I am not doing, but a slant isn't much lighter than the small V8s anyway.
Click to expand...

The 1.03’s won’t be too stiff. If the car is bottoming the suspension now it may very well ride better with the 1.03’s than it does with whatever it has now.

The only “trick” to larger bars is a good set of shocks- RCD Bilsteins, RideTech, Hotchkis etc. Just stay away from KYB and you should be fine.
 
63Tigerlily said:
I must say that I am pretty excited to slap everything together soon. I have a set of disc brakes/spindles/UCA's from @themoparman73 and the 7 1/4 rear from @AbodyBB.
I had planned on popping in a set of 1.03" T-bars, but now I'm worried they'll be too stiff with the slant.

It's the wife's car, and she doesn't seem to even comprehend the mushiness of the suspension, BUT she does notice the bump-stop hit because the car is lowered.
I'm more concerned about keeping it low without bottoming out than I am with the cornering characteristics since it's a mild-custom cruiser for a lady.

Who has put the 1.03s in a /6 A and how did you like them? I was on the Slant 6 forums and the opinions are all over the place. Most everyone here is upgrading for a V8 swap, which I am not doing, but a slant isn't much lighter than the small V8s anyway.
Click to expand...
for what it's worth I'm extremely satisfied with my suspension rebuild which included .92" torsion bars and 6 leaf HD rear springs over my stock .85"/5 leaf springs in my slant 6 duster. work well with KYB's,not harsh at all.

upped the wheel rate to 150 lb/in in the front/130 rear from the original 100/85
 
michiganpat said:
for what it's worth I'm extremely satisfied with my suspension rebuild which included .92" torsion bars and 6 leaf HD rear springs over my stock .85"/5 leaf springs in my slant 6 duster. work well with KYB's,not harsh at all.

upped the wheel rate to 150 lb/in in the front/130 rear from the original 100/85
Click to expand...

But with any significant lowering those aren’t big enough to keep you from bottoming the suspension.
 
i agree. the 1.03 will be awesome with the slant. but like @72bluNblu said. the trick is in the shocks.

i just went from kyb that were on the car for years and i thought they rode ok to a set of bilstein shocks all the way around. the difference is incredible. actually smoothed the car out and it reacts so much nicer over bumps. they aren't cheap but worth every cent in my opinion.
 
Did a 186 mile turnaround to Ventura Nationals this weekend while I wait for parts to arrive to do the swap.
I was originally going to call Pirate Jacks about a pwer brake master kit, but I have a stock 63 power brake booster, so all I would need is a 74 master and combination valve.
Has anyone used Pirate Jakc's kit in an early A? There are a couple of connector busses on the firewall right next to the master, and the stock booster utilizes a stand-off bracket to accomodate them. No tsure aout Jack's kit.
 
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