been opened up awhile

-
barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
20,463
Reaction score
10,047
Location
Shepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
I got a 65 cuda, 273 engine, the PO had removed the intake , heads, front of engine..... it sat outside last winter with tarp over it ( or was it piece of plywood??)... was supposedly running engine...... small amount of rust in cylionders, I see some rust on cam.. cyl ring not bad....
I don't have clean room to take it apart, don't want to rebuild a 273.....
question. can I hone the cyl with pistons there? can I lube the can and not have problem????? OR should I add to the garage and take the sucker apart!????? thanks
 
Some pics would be helpful.

If it is light surface corrosion in the cylinders ("flash" rust) you could polish the corrosion off with some scotch bright pads, just be sure there is no pitting when you are done.

As for the cam - I would not run any cam that has rust on the lobes, this is a perfect time and excuse for you to do a cam swap and perhaps put something hotter in.

My 2 cents
 
Be careful with scotch brite when you use it on internal engine parts (cylinders). I've heard and read that when you rub scotch brite on a metal surface it leaves behind microscopic abrasive particles. You can't see the microscopic particles but they are there. They also float in the air and land on other parts inside the engine. So be sure and clean the block thoroughly after using scotch brite. The same materials in the scotch brite that make it a good cleaning/scrubbing tool is also bad for engines (engine wear). I'm not saying to "not" to use it, just be sure and clean everything completely afterwards.
PS - maybe some other members can chime in about this issue......
treblig
 
I have to add on to my car shed ( Ozark garage), for the last car i painted, but I really need a "clean" room for engine, ( with concrete)! for teardown... LOL
hey, any bankers on here, OR gov't officials that give out "free" money. etc!!! LOL
i'm pretty much retired so I have to be frugal. I know I have more project cars than I should have, but I don't like not having things to piddle with, but then again with old cars and piddlin, it still costs $$$$! LOL
 
Sounds like the motor might not be that bad, if you want to "tinker" with it may work.
I would scuff them with scotch bite soaked in oil, this would absorb, the rust and most of the residue. Change the pad a lot, and cut them down to smaller sizes.
You really need to figure out why the heads were removed in the first place, I don't think many people tear a good motor apart.
 
why ask why!??? so many people take stuff apart and there it sits!!!! you have a point.
I got it from buddy that got it from PO. when he got it, car had been taken apart, sanded down to bare metal and there it sits. engine half apart. new carpet, seat covers, paint and materials. there it sat! LOL
my buddy gets it and sells of front clip, r ebuilt 4 speed, and THERE it sits till I get it. NOW, body/paint is done. interior back in, and then there's the engine... THERE it sits! for now! LOL
some pics attached. looks like some rust piting in some cylinders.
just lookin for this to be driver. i'm sure the best thing to do is find decent runnin SB, thanks for the help....
 
barbee6043 said:
I have to add on to my car shed ( Ozark garage), for the last car i painted, but I really need a "clean" room for engine, ( with concrete)! for teardown... LOL
hey, any bankers on here, OR gov't officials that give out "free" money. etc!!! LOL
i'm pretty much retired so I have to be frugal. I know I have more project cars than I should have, but I don't like not having things to piddle with, but then again with old cars and piddlin, it still costs $$$$! LOL
Click to expand...

My thoughts are, the motor is mostly apart any way so why not clean everything up, install some new rings and bearings if needed then you will have a better chance that it will survive. Otherwise I like your comment about finding a decent running 318 and using it instead.
 
I might suggest using quad 0 steel wool to polish the bores. Be sure to clean the cylinders meticulously afterwards. Either that or tear it down and clean it properly with new rings - at least. For the cost of a set of rings and a gasket set, that would be my path..my .02.
 
barbee6043, this is some shady stuff that I'm telling you!!!!! but it works! have done it many times!

My first mechanic job was working for a Japanese wrecking yard. he would sell motors and i would install then for the customers.

What the customer didn't know was that a lot of these motors were frozen up from siting all winter with out a carb or a air cleaner and they were rust welded.

we would pull the head, spray the head and sook the cyl with atf, pry the motor back and forth until it was free.


Used 36 grit sand paper and hand build a new cross hatch in the cyl, removing the rust. It worked every time except the time that i decide that 80 grit would be a little bit less harsh on the cylinders.
It came back a week latter smoking pretty bad.

when you have the rust removed, even if its pitted, you simply just keep adding oil to the cylinder and wiping it out when the piston is at bottom dead center, until the oil stays clean.

What you got to loose, but a set of gaskets.

The cam.........i have no trick for that, just replace it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top