best antifreeze for old cars

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Chryslers new antifreeze flavor is GO5(HOAT), it's kind of a gold color. I use it on any car with aluminum components as it reduces electrolysis, because I'm too lazy to drain it every couple years. They sell additive packages so you don't have to replace the coolant but I don't know if that stops electrolysis.
I would NEVER run the low silicate stuff in a cast iron block. Those silicates are there to scrub rust and deposits from the internal passages of the cooling system. I haven't really figured out what the push is for low silicate formulas. Seems like fixing something that ain't broke.
 
I tell you what I have trouble with regarding antifreeze. Finding someone to accept used antifreeze. No one around here does and I mean NO ONE.
 
Go Green.

Don’t be this guy...

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I made that observation about Dexcool years ago that the problems that people had with it were not a defect of Dexcool itself, but that people had mixed other types of antifreeze with it.
 
And I have the manufacturer (Cold Case) of my new aluminum radiator telling me to run IAOT (Old style green antifreeze) because they have fewer complaints of corrosion than OAT or HOAT...
 
And I have the manufacturer (Cold Case) of my new aluminum radiator telling me to run IAOT (Old style green antifreeze) because they have fewer complaints of corrosion than OAT or HOAT...
I've run green in the aluminum radiator I removed from Vixen almost two solid years and it's still clean as new on the inside.
 
OAT's and 'Universal' with 2-EHA work best with no air in the system. Also can soften some plastics (Motor magazine Aug 2004 p. 26)
Phosphates are good to quickly recoat aluminum, esp water pumps and also helpful with protecting solder. Found in conventional (IAT) coolants.
Silicates also protect quickly.
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Motor magazine Aug 2010 pp.24-5
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what a marketing genius. Selling 50/50 antifreeze for 90% of the cost of 100%. And is sells like hotcakes!

Do the math folks. Can you pour liquid into a container? It’s not that hard to do yourself.

I use concentrated Prestone. The cheap stuff around here smells like alcohol.
Yes but the premixed stuff contains Holy Water.
 
Ahh for the days when you just bought Prestone, it was green, and there were no choices. Now that we have a rainbow of antifreeze types, and those colors don't even seem to be standard anymore. What is the best type and brand of antifreeze? I'm putting in a new Cold Case aluminum Radiator in a dry freshly rebuilt motor, so the past is irrelevant. Cold Case says "use the green stuff" but as I read the descriptions on line it is clear that all green anti freeze is not the same. I'm leaning toward Zerex Original Green?
Prestone with a anti-rust water pump lubricant.
 
Damn. I didn’t catch that. Well let’s hope he will make that a sticky here. That was a great link, and the information is definitely worth a sticky IMO.
I agree and to me it says "if you caint afford Evans, just run the good old green stuff".
 
That's one part of a 5-part article I wrote about cooling systems. There are links to previous/next chapter at the bottom of each part. Unfortunately, I cannot give permission, as I am not the copyright holder. I wrote that for Allpar before that site's founder sold the site to a media company I have a very dim opinion of, called VerticalScope, who turned Allpar into a zombie undead shell of its former self.
 
That's one part of a 5-part article I wrote about cooling systems. There are links to previous/next chapter at the bottom of each part. Unfortunately, I cannot give permission, as I am not the copyright holder. I wrote that for Allpar before that site's founder sold the site to a media company I have a very dim opinion of, called VerticalScope, who turned Allpar into a zombie undead shell of its former self.
So that's what happened. I've wondered for a long time. It's certainly nothing compared to what it was.
 
That's one part of a 5-part article I wrote about cooling systems. There are links to previous/next chapter at the bottom of each part. Unfortunately, I cannot give permission, as I am not the copyright holder. I wrote that for Allpar before that site's founder sold the site to a media company I have a very dim opinion of, called VerticalScope, who turned Allpar into a zombie undead shell of its former self.

Any chance you could write it again and change it a bit so you don’t violate any copyright laws???

What a shame.
 
I use Evans Waterless Coolant in 6 of my 7 vehicles. In my 1984 & 85 M-B, the temperature gage might creep to 90 C, above the normal 82 C T-stat nominal under max thermal stress, which is climbing the I-5 South grade over the Tehachapi Mtns (to L.A.) on a 110 F day, driving uphill at 65 mph (redline at 120 C). The T-stat may still be controlling (not full open) since to open farther requires higher coolant temperature (engineers term "proportional droop"). Since the innards should never corrode, the cooling ability should never degrade, so "good enough". Ditto for my 2002 Chrysler T&C 3.8L minivan. Can't comment on my 3 old Mopars since haven't stressed them such yet.

My sole vehicle still on regular coolant is the 1996 Plymouth mininvan, and is instructive. I made the common mistake of refilling with "Extended life, 10 year" coolant ~6 years ago. I totally flushed it with house water (low minerals here) and ran a few days on straight water, flushing each time. But perhaps there was still some green coolant in the system since I later noticed brown particles floating at the top of the radiator for several years and finally overheating slightly when idling at long lights. A new flush and more green stuff (w/ distilled water) fixed that for a while, but returned a year later. In flushing, I got much more brownish stuff (nonmagnetic, but not gooky like oil) plus a lot of rust and iron particles (magnetic). I pulled out the radiator (pain in a minivan) and backflushed it upside down, catching the water. More brownish stuff came out, and even chunkier stuff when flushing the block (T-stat out). I'll install a new radiator (only $100) since it had possible rust streaks on the fins and not right anyway (a few bolt holes off, appeared warp, cheap on ebay perhaps factory reject). I recall the extended-life coolant was Autozone store brand and didn't say Dexcool (maybe just "for GM"), plus not sure I was aware of Death-cool at that time.

I noticed at the auto parts that normal green coolant says good for 2 years and even Dexcool now says only 5 years. That makes one-time Evans Coolant ($45/gal) more economical, especially if you value your time. It theoretically doesn't cool as well as 50/50 coolant, but if your vehicle doesn't overheat under worst conditions, it is fine and should stay that way. If cheap, you might roll-your-own since it is now 70% propylene glycol and 30% ethylene glycol (or vice-versa, check MSDS). You can buy the former as "pet-safe" Sierra coolant and the later is regular green coolant. But, most spec say "up to 5% water". You might boil the water off, as I did outdoors on a propane stove. Stay far from flammables since the vapors can catch fire, and have a steel pan to cover the pot and extinguish. Boiling point is high (400 F?) so when the coolant starts boiling, you can be pretty sure most trace water has already boiled away. I stuck paper in the vapors and it caught fire (propylene I recall). In another pass (ethylene I recall), it caught fire and burned violently, overflowing the pot onto the propane burner until I go the steel cover on. Not-advised and watch constantly if you do, but much effort to save maybe half price over just buying Evans.
 
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