Like your creative drive: PB won't sray out, The Hell With It I will punch a hole in the can and pour it out.
Mission Forward, Carry On !!!
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- Thread starter Princess Valiant
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Like your creative drive: PB won't sray out, The Hell With It I will punch a hole in the can and pour it out.
Mission Forward, Carry On !!!
So a week soaking in PB blaster but the engine still doesn't turn. I'm suspecting at this point that the pistons might be loose but something else in the bottom end might be preventing it from turning. I will need to get this back on the stand and turn it upside down. In the mean time I refilled the cylinders with ATF because it's going to be awhile until I get the engine on a stand and upside down.
We had a 50 gal drum with 25 gals of diesel /atf mixture.
That mix would free up everything after a week long dunk.
That mix would free up everything after a week long dunk.
Need to get a 3' pipe on that breaker bar to "Reef" on while one of your buddies goes around with an 18" long block of a 2 x 4 and a 3 lb. hammer to start breaking the rings free from the cylinder walls at each cylinder.
Rings are stuck to the cylinder walls, going to take a little persuasion to get them moving.
Rock the crank back and forth till you start to get some good movement.
Pour some ATF over the crank rods and mains when you have it upside down too. Good time to soak the bottom half of the cylinder walls to with ATF when it's upside down.
So almost two weeks soaking and the engine still won't turn so I suspected the mains could be rusted or some reason other than than the pistons locking the engine.
So today I got some help and got the engine back on the stand and turned it upside down to remove the oil pan.
I was expecting a dead possum in there or something really dumb and sure enough.....
So today I got some help and got the engine back on the stand and turned it upside down to remove the oil pan.
I was expecting a dead possum in there or something really dumb and sure enough.....
The mains all had oil although not the best oil you can get.
I found out the engine is still locked and the reason is 2 cylinders which I'm soaking from the bottom now that its upside down.
All in all, I think this engine is going to live. I think it made it as a builder despite being in the elements for several years.
I found out the engine is still locked and the reason is 2 cylinders which I'm soaking from the bottom now that its upside down.
All in all, I think this engine is going to live. I think it made it as a builder despite being in the elements for several years.
Ironracer
Gearhead
That's how we hand paint the old Galvanized eaves drip. Kill it w/ a vinegar wipe..
Scody21
Just send it
And Manhattan's with a good bourbon
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I'd give it a few days and get a piece of 2 x 4 and a BFH.....and frail on those 2 pistons to break em loose. It won't take much effort now that you have it narrowed down to the 2 culprits!
pishta
I know I'm right....
F yeah, take a 12" 2X2 piece and start hammering those pistons out the top. They will break free and leave a nasty rust scar on the wall but it will most likely wipe out with a dingle ball hone. 1/2 ATF and kerosene is cheap, as said the ATF will find any passage to leak. Biggs(?) penetrating oil said they needed a special spray nozzle as their oil would leak past a regular paint type aerosol nozzle. We had a 302 Ford Motor locked up good. We filled the cylinders with ATF/Kerosene and put a 5 foot piece of 1" galvanized on the breaker bar and hung 2 25 lb weights on the end. 2 days later the weights were on the ground and the pistons were broken free enough to work the crank 360 degrees. We pulled the pistons, freed up and cleaned the rings and put that thing back together. Ran with no smoke! High school auto shop motor rescue.
So you are going to take a torch to it next???
skep419
5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
I thought I read a thread a while back that said Sea Foam Deep Creep worked miracles.
Here is an interesting idea if you do heat the pistons with your rose bud torch. Know that the heat will transfer all the way through those Aluminum pistons 10 times faster than heat moving through that cast iron block.
Aluminum Conducts heat very well. So if you take a little time heating each one of those pistons they should come free for you. As you saw in the video they sprayed the penetrating oil into the cylinder wall gap when they were good and hot.
When the pistons cooled they easily turned the crank with the breaker bar.
That heat on the piston tops will transfer all the way down to the piston skirts, take your time they will heat up.
Don't want to dump too much heat too fast that it melts the piston tops, warm them up to temperature. Can check their temps with the infrared heat gun to know where you are at with the heat. Would guess 250° would do the trick, then hit them with the penetrating oil and let them cool.
Expansion and Contraction
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Panther Piss
50/50 ATF and acetone
DustyDuster
Imfamous member
He he he she said **** (sorry, couldn’t resist)
So a month and a half of soaking in a mixture of ATF and diesel with a side of PB blaster and nothing.
I hit the piston with a block and hammer and the bottom of the connecting rod and nothing. The stuck pistons have a very hard thud, unlike the ones that were removed which had a hallow knock.
The torch comes out this coming weekend.
This is going to be a new one on me but I'm trying me darnest to save this junker engine....... and mainly because it says "72" on the side of it. LOL
I hit the piston with a block and hammer and the bottom of the connecting rod and nothing. The stuck pistons have a very hard thud, unlike the ones that were removed which had a hallow knock.
The torch comes out this coming weekend.
This is going to be a new one on me but I'm trying me darnest to save this junker engine....... and mainly because it says "72" on the side of it. LOL
So the heat idea works.
I fired up the torch and I had my cousin working the hammer and he tried pounding it through as I worked the torch and infrared thermometer.
It started out with a solid knock at room temperature. Once it reached about 365 F the knock turned into a hollow thud. It still took a beating even when hot but at least it was moving. I was spraying pb blaster and the piston very slowly worked its way through till it was out.
When the first piston came out I grabbed it to prevent dropping it..... HOT HOT!!!!
But the last two pistons were freed and all pistons are out of the block with no damage to the walls or the pistons. One connecting rod cap got a little beat up by I'm thinking it will live?
I fired up the torch and I had my cousin working the hammer and he tried pounding it through as I worked the torch and infrared thermometer.
It started out with a solid knock at room temperature. Once it reached about 365 F the knock turned into a hollow thud. It still took a beating even when hot but at least it was moving. I was spraying pb blaster and the piston very slowly worked its way through till it was out.
When the first piston came out I grabbed it to prevent dropping it..... HOT HOT!!!!
But the last two pistons were freed and all pistons are out of the block with no damage to the walls or the pistons. One connecting rod cap got a little beat up by I'm thinking it will live?
Things normally get hot when you torch um. I guess you found that out. The hot way.
It was even a carburizing flame because i ran out of oxygen. The last time I used this torch was years ago.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Cool glad you got it free.
The first one took a long time because I was being conservative with the heat.
You can't be shy with this kind of thing because once I got aggressive with the heat, stuff started happening to the desired effect.
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