Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
What are your plans for this engine? I love that photo.
Best cocktail
- Thread starter Princess Valiant
- Start date
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This weekend power wash it.
Then measure and maybe run the dingle ball hone on it, measure..... and maybe eventually make it run again.
If I can save it and make it run again then my cousin has a crew cab dart that this engine would be a perfect match for.
We shall see, but it's been fun so far trying to save a junkyard engine that's been outside without a hood for a couple decades. Even if I can't save it, it's been worth the effort because I got it for free and now I have more experience freeing stuck engines lol.
And now for the next problem..... the stuck camshaft
Push it out the front with a Port-to-Power on the back and a Wheel Puller on the front. If the cam bearings come with it that's OK.
Yea, the cam turned out to not be as stubborn as I thought and pushed out with a bit of motivation (hammer and I heated it up a bit since I have the torch out still) only the rear most cam bearing was rusted. Now to remove the cam bearings (i have the tool)
Just got done with power washer round one and got it cleaned up a lot.
The cylinders that were stuck don't look so bad now but this just shows how little it takes to prevent the piston from moving.
Just got done with power washer round one and got it cleaned up a lot.
The cylinders that were stuck don't look so bad now but this just shows how little it takes to prevent the piston from moving.
I was thinking of running the hone through it to clean it up a lot, then measure it with the bore gauge for taper. Might be putting the cart before the horse but it makes sense right now to get a more accurate reading??
It does have a ridge but it's barely stopping my fingernail.
This is fun
It does have a ridge but it's barely stopping my fingernail.
This is fun
So, @George Jets Question??
I have a set of 68 318 pistons that I saved from a junk engine that had a cracked block.
This engine here is a 72 dated for a 73 model year car, so the question is can I use the 68 pistons with these 72 connecting rods?? The 68 connecting rods were destroyed so I only have the rods from the 72.
I have a set of 68 318 pistons that I saved from a junk engine that had a cracked block.
This engine here is a 72 dated for a 73 model year car, so the question is can I use the 68 pistons with these 72 connecting rods?? The 68 connecting rods were destroyed so I only have the rods from the 72.
OK the '68 (&'69) 318 pistons are the 9.2:1 c.r. valve relief flat top pistons that came with the Full Floating Rods.
The '72 rods are more than likely the pressed on pistons. The '89 to '91 318s had the full floating rods that will work though, as an alternative source.
Full Floating Rods: pistons install with the snap rings.
'69 318 factory 9.2:1 pistons pictured here:
'90 318 9.2:1 full floating pistons/rods pictured here on this roller engine:
The '72 rods are more than likely the pressed on pistons. The '89 to '91 318s had the full floating rods that will work though, as an alternative source.
Full Floating Rods: pistons install with the snap rings.
'69 318 factory 9.2:1 pistons pictured here:
'90 318 9.2:1 full floating pistons/rods pictured here on this roller engine:
Ran the hone through and it's going to need a LOT more work and better cross hatch.
Its a lot smoother to the feel than it looks, in fact it feels really smooth.
I need to get a new stone hone, its really worn from other builds.
I think I'm going to measure it now and see the massive taper going on before I waste too much time on this.
This is one of the cylinders that had a stuck piston and at one time this was full of water
Its a lot smoother to the feel than it looks, in fact it feels really smooth.
I need to get a new stone hone, its really worn from other builds.
I think I'm going to measure it now and see the massive taper going on before I waste too much time on this.
This is one of the cylinders that had a stuck piston and at one time this was full of water
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Dang....that cylinder will push it to clean up at .030. Might have to sleeve it if it's the only one that rough.
If I did it right, this is the reading I got from this cylinder.
I don't know the specs on the book yet, I'm going to dig around the internet and interpret the readings.
@MOPAROFFICIAL
@318willrun
What do you think?
I don't know the specs on the book yet, I'm going to dig around the internet and interpret the readings.
@MOPAROFFICIAL
@318willrun
What do you think?
I had to read the thread after I was summand. First, 318 must be tough to get there?? that was a lot of work to get where you are..... Ok, you have some taper, and by the looks of the pitting in the cylinder(s), you might be .040 getting them to clean up.
Ok, so your opinion is to bore it out?
318s are not really that hard to find its just I have this one here so why not. This one is already in my possession and I don't have any hot dates anytime soon so I don't mind putting the elbow grease in just to do it. If it's junk, I accept that but if I can make it run again then that's what I'm fixin to to do.
I stopped honing when I did because my stone hone ran out of stone before I finished, or at least before I got a far as I wanted to.
Remember the last 1" of the upper Cylinder is where the real compression work takes place.
Will it run, yes.
A set of factory '72 lower compression pistons may be a better choice on this used block.
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A picture is worth a 1000 words.... but in this case, without being able to see it in person, it for sure looks like it needs to be bored, and I'm guessing at least .040 to clean it all up. And, I wouldn't put 10 cents in it till I had it magnafluxed for cracks.
Kinda crazy that there is never any ridge at the bottom, I doubt the rings go all the way to bottom, yet, nada
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Were your numbers repeatable?
I did each number a few times and at times got different numbers but they were always close.
Its kinda a job to do this because it's really hard to know if the telescoping gauge is in the right place.
It's good practice because I have not done this in a long time.
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Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
They are tapered slightly but the looks like the maximum difference is .01 I would have that block bored just from the way they look. My taper on my 360 was alot worse than that it took .060 over to get the taper out of 1 and 8 on mine the bores cleaned up at .40 but there was still a ridge on the top of 1 and 8 iirc
That is cause the rings are not doing any compression work down there, they are just along for the ride wiping the excess oil off the cylinder walls.
Well this was really fun.
Where's the next junk engine to mess with?
I'm going to bore this one out this summer, I gotta save up some money to do it, but I'm gonna. I like this block and it's already here, I kinda want to hear it run again.
Next up, I have a 74 dated 318 that turns freely and was running up to last summer. Any luck and I'll find an engine I can overhaul without having to over bore.
When I finally get to the stage of having it bored out, that's going to be an adventure, I'm looking forward to it.
Where's the next junk engine to mess with?
I'm going to bore this one out this summer, I gotta save up some money to do it, but I'm gonna. I like this block and it's already here, I kinda want to hear it run again.
Next up, I have a 74 dated 318 that turns freely and was running up to last summer. Any luck and I'll find an engine I can overhaul without having to over bore.
When I finally get to the stage of having it bored out, that's going to be an adventure, I'm looking forward to it.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I want get a couple spare 318s to put back for later builds. Believe it or not any la engine is getting more difficult to find in my area. And when you do find them people want alot for them. I got lucky last year and found 2 360s really cheap and bought them both. And I have a 360 mag Id like to work on my 318 inventory now.
In my opinion, they are rare enough to not waste them but not so rare that you couldn't find one in a pinch or if you really pursued one.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Yea I agree. If you absolutely want one and are willing to pay 750 for a core you can buy them. The 150-200 dollar pick and pull days are gone unfortunately
Get in friendly with some wrecking yards. I know most of the local towing companies by name so a lot of times they tell me about stuff and stuff comes down the alley cheap this way. You never know when an abandoned dodge ram will come through or one that was seized.
My last 360 came in a 90 dodge ram that was involved in a crime and when the cops were done with it, they left it at the wrecking yard and I got the whole truck for the tow fees, under the condition I have to use it for parts only. I can't try to register it or drive it as is. That's OK with me, it's already parted out and the engine is in a duster.
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