HemiMark
Well-Known Member
If its a power steering car be careful of you choice. (did I miss where you said its power steering?)
He's got an automatic as one of his posts said.
And, yes the Doug's tri-Y design are equally as nice in their own way but try to get them in without pulling the engine out-it's not happening. The big difference in the TTI's is that the tubes start their bend immediately at the flange yielding a slimmer design. Doug's headers are still made the same way they were making headers 60 years ago so they're big and bulky. I still say the ONLY headers for an A-body are TTI's.
What's all this TTi talk?
I thought this was settled long ago....
Doug's 453 FTW with a 20% autozone discount..
This. :sign3:
I'd take the Doug's 453's over TTI's any day. Not only on price, but fit and finish as well. They also give an extra 3/8" or so of ground clearance compared to the TTI long tube's.
Also, if you have a 4-speed you need to modify the Z-bar. That goes for both Doug's AND TTI's.
Doug's and TTI's are (imo) the two best options for his application. I just wanted him to know the differences. Doug's actually are bulkier coming off the head flange as your photo clearly shows. This is due to their old bending process. With Doug's the tubes come STRAIGHT off the flange before starting to bend vs. TTI's that come off the head flange into an immediate bend which results in a more compact design for easier installation and more space between header and inner fender. The second big difference is the TTI's are step headers and the Doug's are not. Again, the Doug's are great and I've had them on other vehicles but I prefer the TTI's when it comes to A-bodies.
Actually, I don't mind pulling the engine.
Never done a Mopar but plenty of Chevy's.....
I can clean and paint it...change the pan gasket, etc.....
I'm not super fast, but I can have it out in 4 hours....
:burnout:
Sorry, I thought your op said "EASIEST". My bad. Nevermind.
Just got my D453 ceramic coated for my 72 Duster 340. I got them for 500 with delivery....WOW Thank you Autozone .I am tired of bottoming out those dang hookers!
Tips for pulling a small block mopar, I can usaully do it in 1 hour. Tip 1). You don't have to pull the hood off to pull the motor if ya remove the carb and keep the chain close to the intake. Tip 2). You don't have to pull the starter either if your only pulling the motor. Tip 3) If you pull the engine and change the pan gasket, be sure to throw in a new rear main seal.. these can be kind of common to leak. And if you pull the engine, I'd also tap in the front transmission seal behind the converter. Save ya from leav'n a few drips when ya park if both rear main seal and front tranny seal are newActually, I don't mind pulling the engine.
Never done a Mopar but plenty of Chevy's.....
I can clean and paint it...change the pan gasket, etc.....
I'm not super fast, but I can have it out in 4 hours....
:burnout:
Tips for pulling a small block mopar, I can usaully do it in 1 hour. Tip 1). You don't have to pull the hood off to pull the motor if ya remove the carb and keep the chain close to the intake. Tip 2). You don't have to pull the starter either if your only pulling the motor. Tip 3) If you pull the engine and change the pan gasket, be sure to throw in a new rear main seal.. these can be kind of common to leak. And if you pull the engine, I'd also tap in the front transmission seal behind the converter. Save ya from leav'n a few drips when ya park if both rear main seal and front tranny seal are new
Doug's actually are bulkier coming off the head flange as your photo clearly shows. This is due to their old bending process. With Doug's the tubes come STRAIGHT off the flange before starting to bend vs. TTI's that come off the head flange into an immediate bend which results in a more compact design for easier installation and more space between header and inner fender.
Asking for easy fitting headers on an a-body is like saying "military intelligence"...
There is just no such thing in this world....
I just put the TTI shorty's on my 74 Dart Sport with a 360 and they fit very well.
I also have their full 2 1/2" exhaust and it went in without too many problems.
The only thing that I would recommend is check that the driver side tubes don't come in contact with the cylinder head. I have edelbrock aluminum heads and the 2 center tubes hit the head at the bottom edge. I had to grind the head for clearance. I only noticed it when I had to take the headers out and saw that they flange wasn't contacting the gasket on the bottom of the ports. I don't know if it will be the same on iron heads or not.