Best street susp setup?

[GMachineDartGT]

Bilstein doesn't sell to the public either, in fact they had no idea what I was talking about. Thats how I got to RCD.

I will call your guys monday for sure.

 

[NWDave]

I just threw a tune up at the old 318, and found that 2 of my spark plug wires were nearly burnt through! Anyway, it runs much better now, but still rolls over like a lonely dog in the corners! I sure like the car though, despite its faults, and enjoy that it's far easier to work on than anything from built in the 80's to present! Thanks for all the great pointers, it gives me some good info to sort out, and to plan accordingly.

 

[abodyjoe]

Glad to here it's running better for ya. Take it slow, youll get the car exactly how ya want it

 

[lilcuda]

GLad you saw the cars. I have lots of hours in the both of them, but so do many others...

Race Car Dynamics is the supplier I used. They sold me direct which they normally don't do. I was supposed to be getting matched shocks for my t bars, but they aren't....

Do you have any connections?

Now I'm wondering if the shocks Frim Feel sells are just off the shelf from RCD or are they getting them custom valved?

What about using the RCD Bilsteins with 1.00 or .940 bars?

Can you explain what problems you are having with your setup? I'm an engine guy that's trying to learn more about suspension setup.

I currently have .870 bars in my car with KYB's front & rear, 1 1/8" front bar, 3/4" rear bar. I'm looking to get fatter t-bars when I do my big bolt pattern upgrade.

 

[NWDave]

What's a good rearend swap, to both replace the weak stock 7 1/4" rear, and move up to the 5 on 4.5" BP wheels? I might as well look at this, if I'm going to chang the leaf springs, and shocks.

I know a guy with a few older B body 8 3/4" rearends sitting around.

 

[needsaresto]

What's a good rearend swap, to both replace the weak stock 7 1/4" rear, and move up to the 5 on 4.5" BP wheels? I might as well look at this, if I'm going to chang the leaf springs, and shocks.

I know a guy with a few older B body 8 3/4" rearends sitting around.

The b body rears will have the 4.5 pattern. Not sure how wide they are,but I think it's close.
A body 8 /34 rears arent cheap. Ford 9"s are a common swap

I know some put in the 8 1/4,a bit less money but easily able to handle a small block.

I would keep the suspension stock and rebuild it using Moog. Thats what Im doing and Im also staying with rubber. Enough squeeks in these old mopars,lol..

 

[autoxcuda]

GLad you saw the cars. I have lots of hours in the both of them, but so do many others...

Race Car Dynamics is the supplier I used. They sold me direct which they normally don't do. I was supposed to be getting matched shocks for my t bars, but they aren't....

Do you have any connections?

I just looked the the Race Car Dynamics website in El Cajon, CA. They look to have an off road emphasis. -pass on that.

I have some bilsteins that I got at a swap meet that were supposedly special vavled for a road race setup in a 66 mustang. I don't know how to get them to fit my Barracuda, but they were $60 #-o: . I dyno'd them...

 

[GMachineDartGT]

Steve - Lets talk on Monday, because I'll take all 4 of mine out in a heartbeat to put on that dyno. I need to know what these things are really made for.

As far as what FFI is selling, I have no idea if he has even sold any, and who he his supplier is, it could be RCD but not sure.

The front shocks are far too soft to control my 1.04 bars (250in/lb). Rears seem closer to my 6 leaf springs, but if we're dynoing, it would be nice to know the real deal.

 

[lilcuda]

As far as what FFI is selling, I have no idea if he has even sold any, and who he his supplier is, it could be RCD but not sure.

The front shocks are far too soft to control my 1.04 bars (250in/lb). Rears seem closer to my 6 leaf springs, but if we're dynoing, it would be nice to know the real deal.

Yes, Firm Feel is selling shocks from RCD. I was just wondering if Firm Feel gets them calibrated differently or if they are just off the shelf. Here's a quote from the FF website:

"Firm Feel is proud to offer the RCD Classics line of Bilstein Shock Absorbers to complement your street or race setup."

 

[Rcuda2]

I've had a couple of Formula S cars and liked how they rode & handled. I suggest copy those suspensions (1965-1969). I'm not sure on the exact numbers but here are ballpark suggestions for street handling.
0.980"+ torsion bars, 7/8"+ front sway bar, 6 full leaf rear springs (XHD), 14" rally wheels and 205XR14 tires or larger.
7 1/4 rear should be OK until you start putting bown more horsepower with good traction. 8 1/4 rear is strong enough upgrade & 4 1/2" bolt pattern wheels have more custom wheel options.

 

[autoxcuda]

Steve - Lets talk on Monday, because I'll take all 4 of mine out in a heartbeat to put on that dyno. I need to know what these things are really made for.

As far as what FFI is selling, I have no idea if he has even sold any, and who he his supplier is, it could be RCD but not sure.

The front shocks are far too soft to control my 1.04 bars (250in/lb). Rears seem closer to my 6 leaf springs, but if we're dynoing, it would be nice to know the real deal.

Can't you just get them Dyno'd a work at XV ??

What numbers we're shooting for? What good is the dyno going to do if we don't know that.

Problem is the dyno is set for rod end to rod end shock. The clevis is very narrow just for that. I've never made adapters to mount Mopar stock shocks up to them. The maximum length clevis pin to clevis pin is about 19".

The top of the bolt the clevis screws into is 3/4" down from the pin centerline. So you've got about 21 1/2" bolt thread end to bolt thread end.

Is there enough room to fit our mopar shock on there??

These clevis' are on top and bottom

 

[GMachineDartGT]

All of our shock work was done outside of my building, so no dyno where I work.

I suppose I can find a rod end to screw onto the stud side of the shock to get it to work. Not sure if the round side is too wide for that setup as well.

 

[NWDave]

What's a good source for an 8 1/4" rearend?

 

[autoxcuda]

All of our shock work was done outside of my building, so no dyno where I work.

I suppose I can find a rod end to screw onto the stud side of the shock to get it to work. Not sure if the round side is too wide for that setup as well.

Yes, it's too wide on the bottom.

Question is what numbers are we looking for?

 

[autoxcuda]

What's a good source for an 8 1/4" rearend?

73-76 A-body only will have the right width.

I've never seen one in a /6 but it could be possible, just not at all likely. All 340-4bbl and all 360-4bbl were 8 1/4". The heavier the optioned 318-2bbl the more likely the 8 1/4.

The 74-76 Dart S/E 318-2bbl with A/C would have a high probability. I've seen them in those, but I can't say every one of them has one.

 

[NWDave]

Well, I bought a set of SBP 14x5.5" Rally wheels last night, so I'm going for a more conservative, stock look. It's just a 4 door, I don't want to throw a bunch of money into it.

Just ordered a set of S/S rear leaf springs. I will see how tall it sits whit them installed, and do the front spring hanger reversal to lower it, if I don't like the way it looks.

 

[autoxcuda]

Well, I bought a set of SBP 14x5.5" Rally wheels last night, so I'm going for a more conservative, stock look. It's just a 4 door, I don't want to throw a bunch of money into it.

Just ordered a set of S/S rear leaf springs. I will see how tall it sits whit them installed, and do the front spring hanger reversal to lower it, if I don't like the way it looks.

If you are going low buck, why buy the SS leaf spings? I think the JC Whitney or ESPO's are cheaper.

 

[tyler_s18]

Shouldn't need 16" with rotors less that 12" diameter and a stock type calipers. There may be some 15" aftermarket rims that won't work. Mostly old 15" aftermarket rims from the '60's.

Stock 10.75" disk can be run on 14" rims.

Stock type 11.75" disk can be run on 15" rims.

dont wanna jack the thread but my 75 original disc brake car has 14" wheels stock. i got a set of 15" rallys (not rally design but close. but are originaly mopar 70s wheels or around there) and they hit my upper ball joint. to much backspacing. so be carefull if you get wheels and try to check them first. i will end up runnin spacers on the front even tho i dont like the idea but that will make it work pbly

 

[NWDave]

Are the ESPO springs really cheaper, with shipping to WA state? I had nothing but grief from JC Whitney in the '90's, when they messed up every order I ever made from them. Anyway, my stock springs are shot, as are the torsion bars, which will be my next acquisition.

 

[abodyjoe]

i think the jc whitney's were cheaper. not sure though. the espo's are supposed to be built to the same specs as the originals. but you can get them in +1 & 2"

 

[autoxcuda]

dont wanna jack the thread but my 75 original disc brake car has 14" wheels stock. i got a set of 15" rallys (not rally design but close. but are originaly mopar 70s wheels or around there) and they hit my upper ball joint. to much backspacing. so be carefull if you get wheels and try to check them first. i will end up runnin spacers on the front even tho i dont like the idea but that will make it work pbly

Pictures of the rims?

Original and repro Mopar 15x7 rallye, 70-71 15x7 solid painted steel steel rims, 15x7 cop rims with and without holes all have 4.25" backspacing. They will not hit the upper control arm. They cannot his the actual ball joint, that too high up.

I have 15x8 repro rallyes and they are 4.5" backspacing and they do not hit the upper control arm. I have a complete 73-76 A-body V-8 front end on my 68.

I think you might have a 15x6.5 C-body o 15x7 Jeep or something rim.

Here's my 15x8 rallyes with 4.5" backspacing that is .25 more than 15x7 ralley backspacing. I looks closer in this picture than it is. It got regular snap on wheel weights no rubbing.

 

[tyler_s18]

Pictures of the rims?

Original and repro Mopar 15x7 rallye, 70-71 15x7 solid painted steel steel rims, 15x7 cop rims with and without holes all have 4.25" backspacing. They will not hit the upper control arm. They cannot his the actual ball joint, that too high up.

I have 15x8 repro rallyes and they are 4.5" backspacing and they do not hit the upper control arm. I have a complete 73-76 A-body V-8 front end on my 68.

I think you might have a 15x6.5 C-body o 15x7 Jeep or something rim.

Here's my 15x8 rallyes with 4.5" backspacing that is .25 more than 15x7 ralley backspacing. I looks closer in this picture than it is. It got regular snap on wheel weights no rubbing.

these are wat i got. they hit at the bottom of the bead where the wheel is rounded into the middle of the wheel and hit the very edge of the ball joint. maby some grinding (1/8th inch maby) on the upper control arm and on the lip of the ball joint would fix it maby