best way to repair twin scoops

-
This would be my approach.
BLOWN DUSTER.jpg
 
I agree with @72bluNblu that any decent filler will work.
If the pits are no worse than what I see in the picture, I would just use a good quality glazing putty (some call it a spot putty. It usually comes in a tube. It is a bit thinner than regular filler; it would probably spread on easier and fill the pits easier, and it sands easier than regular filler.
 
I agree with @72bluNblu that any decent filler will work.
If the pits are no worse than what I see in the picture, I would just use a good quality glazing putty (some call it a spot putty. It usually comes in a tube. It is a bit thinner than regular filler; it would probably spread on easier and fill the pits easier, and it sands easier than regular filler.
thats is what I went with, the spot putty, thanks.
 
what glue is used for the stud kits on the scoops? jB WELD?

Glue? The studs screw in.

Screenshot 2024-11-18 at 9.46.15 AM.png


If the scoop is damaged there or the threads are loose in the scoop it would basically be a fiberglass repair, so, anything compatible with fiberglass would work.
 
now to figure out how to cut the reliefs without tearing up the hood. I want to make the scoops functional just for the cool factor. I've read somewhere that they don't really work like a regular scoop because of the opening being to close to the hood.
Keep in mind the cutouts in the hood brace are larger than the holes. The reference tells you the size of the holes, but not the size of the cutout. Someone here can probably tell you the size of the cutout in the hood brace if you want to make it exact. There was a plastic rub part on the inside of the hole and there needed to be room for it to mount. I had them factory on my Demon back in the day.

A lot of the aftermarket scoops are one piece so the bezel is black. I think there are a couple made that are two piece with the chrome. On some of the other Mopars the scoops are functional, so I suspect they will push in some cooler air even though they are close to the hood.
 
The scoops are also good at letting heat OUT when parked or in stop & go city driving.
Demonx2, funny you should say that. Just last week I had a vapor lock on my 69 340 Swinger after filling up. Never happened before, so I did a little research. Winterized fuel could cause a vapor lock, if used in a warm Climent, as in South Florida, where I am. I went back to the gas station and asked about if they were using it. I was told no. I opened the hood for about an hour, and it started up, so I would say those holes in the hood do have a purpose, other than cool air induction. As long as the car was running, I had no issue. Only when I restarted after a long, heated run did I have the vapor lock.
 
The scoops are also good at letting heat OUT when parked or in stop & go city driving.

That’s about all they do.

They’re not tall enough to get out of the boundary layer of air flow going over the hood so there’s not really any air moving at speed going through them.

Plus the air would have to make a 90° turn from the inflow. If they caught any significant amount of air they’d cause more lift than anything else.
 
That’s about all they do.

They’re not tall enough to get out of the boundary layer of air flow going over the hood so there’s not really any air moving at speed going through them.

Plus the air would have to make a 90° turn from the inflow. If they caught any significant amount of air they’d cause more lift than anything else.
Hey - you're forgetting one of their main functions: they're just cool!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Demonx2, funny you should say that. Just last week I had a vapor lock on my 69 340 Swinger after filling up. Never happened before, so I did a little research. Winterized fuel could cause a vapor lock, if used in a warm Climent, as in South Florida, where I am. I went back to the gas station and asked about if they were using it. I was told no. I opened the hood for about an hour, and it started up, so I would say those holes in the hood do have a purpose, other than cool air induction. As long as the car was running, I had no issue. Only when I restarted after a long, heated run did I have the vapor lock.
Well...we should have cleared the "shoulder" season on fuel RVP. It usually starts around mid-September when the producers switch to the higher RvP winter fuel.

But consider that for the warm weather States, we need the low RVP stuff a lot longer. So if they don't have any, I know sometimes, we'll, er, sometimes you get the high RVP stuff (winter fuel) sent to the wrong place. Used to catch Valero in Texas causing quite a few warranty problems now and then with fuel RVP.
 
-
Back
Top