Best way to tackle this job?

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demon322

demon322

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After months of saving, research, and orders I am going to attempt a pretty big job over the long weekend. I do have a little help but we are down a man as my Dad has been in the hospital for a month and a half.

71 Demon.

Replacing cheapo headers with a set of Doug’s.
Switching from power to manual steering with a new box and adapter from pst.
Swapping out stock style master cylinder for newer style aluminum MC with an adjustable push rod from dr diff and also installing line lock.

Am I crazy to attempt all of this at once? Anything I might be forgetting? My thinking was the steering pieces have to be disconnected since they go through the old headers and having the manual box will hopefully save some space for the dougs. I already run a mini starter.

I think I have most of the tools. I do not have a lift in my shop. Just jacks/stands and a set of oil change ramps.

Thanks in advance.
 
You have to take steering down for headers so do the box.

TTI headers go in from the bottom. Not sure about Dougs
 
fklskv said:
You have to take steering down for headers so do the box.

TTI headers go in from the bottom. Not sure about Dougs
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nope, you dont

but then again, i put my dougs in from the top, then dropped the engine in between them
 
I must be old because I would never get rid of my power steering unless it's a drag car. Parking lots suck without it.
 
fklskv said:
So if the engine is out should I still put the tti headers in from the bottom?
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if they are the same as dougs, then you drop the headers in from the top and tie them off so there is room for the engine to go in between them
drop the engine in, bolt everything down and done
 
Definitely do not try all of them at once . Planning is 90% of the job . Do what you can completely before you tackle the next phase . This give you a sense of completion . I would do the steering first . the headers second and the master last . good luck
 
I understand where Scampman is coming from, and I understand doing things a little at a time so you make sure to finish them. In this case though, I would at least do the headers and steering box at the same time. You will likely have to raise the motor for both jobs, so why not do those two things at the same time and only have to raise the motor once.

I would put the car up on the ramps, separate the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft, unbolt the motor mounts (and probably just loosen the trans mount so you don't tear it). You may have to disconnect the trans linkages so you don't bend anything. Find some way to block it up though so it doesn't slip and fall on you while you are in there working. Then jack up the motor and drop the driver side header out. Swap out the steering box and put the new header in, then change out the passenger side header.

If you can get away with only pulling one motor mount bolt, so it can pivot on the other, do that so the motor is more stable while you are working. Don't know what engine you have, but when we put the fast ratio steering box in my Barracuda (with a 400 in it), we had to undo both motor mounts (and remove the driver side header) to raise the motor enough to get the old steering box out and the new one in.
 
fklskv said:
:poke:

:poke:
I was being a little sarcastic:lol:
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then i guess i should apologize for thinking you were slow

stir.gif
 
383Scampman said:
Definitely do not try all of them at once . Planning is 90% of the job . Do what you can completely before you tackle the next phase . This give you a sense of completion . I would do the steering first . the headers second and the master last . good luck
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Thanks. This makes sense. I just need to get as much done this weekend as possible but agree that planning is the most important.
 
Frnknsteen said:
I understand where Scampman is coming from, and I understand doing things a little at a time so you make sure to finish them. In this case though, I would at least do the headers and steering box at the same time. You will likely have to raise the motor for both jobs, so why not do those two things at the same time and only have to raise the motor once.

I would put the car up on the ramps, separate the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft, unbolt the motor mounts (and probably just loosen the trans mount so you don't tear it). You may have to disconnect the trans linkages so you don't bend anything. Find some way to block it up though so it doesn't slip and fall on you while you are in there working. Then jack up the motor and drop the driver side header out. Swap out the steering box and put the new header in, then change out the passenger side header.

If you can get away with only pulling one motor mount bolt, so it can pivot on the other, do that so the motor is more stable while you are working. Don't know what engine you have, but when we put the fast ratio steering box in my Barracuda (with a 400 in it), we had to undo both motor mounts (and remove the driver side header) to raise the motor enough to get the old steering box out and the new one in.
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Thanks. This seems very doable and like you said makes sense to try to tackle together first. It’s a 340 so I could try to only jack up one side as you mentioned. I have a fork style remover. Will that work for the pitman or I see autozone loans a puller style?
 
It's probably faster if you just drop the k with steering and everything, and do your box swap and headers from there.

Certainly less work.

Spray ya k bolts with penetrating oil now.
 
demon322 said:
I have a fork style remover. Will that work for the pitman or I see autozone loans a puller style?
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I'd rent the pitman puller if you can get one so you don't damage the pitman arm or the boot. I bought one of these.

Z2w6L-hcpIx_.jpg
 
jos51700 said:
It's probably faster if you just drop the k with steering and everything, and do your box swap and headers from there.

Certainly less work.

Spray ya k bolts with penetrating oil now.
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Thanks but I don’t have a way to get the car up off the k member if I did it this way. I don’t mind crawling under it I just was unsure about the order to go about it.
 
Frnknsteen said:
I'd rent the pitman puller if you can get one so you don't damage the pitman arm or the boot. I bought one of these.

View attachment 1715217243
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Yeah there is an AZ pretty close so I don’t mind to drive over there to rent one if it’ll make the job easier. Should I pick up an oil change while I’m there — will the passenger header be easier without the oil filter in the way? I don’t run the 90 oil filter adapter, just screw it straight to the block.
 
demon322 said:
Thanks but I don’t have a way to get the car up off the k member if I did it this way. I don’t mind crawling under it I just was unsure about the order to go about it.
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All you need is a Jack.

It's not about crawling under the car, is about making enough room to untangle the header-steering knot.

The old school method works, this was just a suggestion
 
Sorry if my reply sounded rude. I did appreciate the suggestion.
 
Can I get down to a one belt setup when I lose the p/s pump? Would it involve just a deeper water pump pulley? It looks like maybe if I had a deeper pulley there the same belt could run fan and alt.

D6770973-E60D-45D0-9B90-5903A2464F19.jpeg
 
You need a pulley set. Your Alt. Should wrap around the water pump and crank.

I’m a bit late on your weekend for this job but here’s two worthless cents;

Remove the stock exhaust in full.
Remove the P/S box (& pump) and finish the swap in full.
Resume header installation.
Do not touch the braking system until the header swap and exhaust if done.

Follow Doug’s instructions on installation. If you can not lift the car very high, I have found advantages in an engine hoists use for lifting/tilting the engine.

Best of luck with the car, best wishes on Dad.
 
demon322 said:
Can I get down to a one belt setup when I lose the p/s pump? Would it involve just a deeper water pump pulley? It looks like maybe if I had a deeper pulley there the same belt could run fan and alt.

View attachment 1715219225
Click to expand...

that mess of a pulley set up is all wrong to begin with..

yes you can get down to one belt with the right pulleys and alt bracket...
 
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the alt bracket below can be bought new for like $35. pulleys can be bought used but are getting harder and harder to find.. use the measurements in the pics below to buy what you need...




proper alt bracket.
pulley1-1.jpg


proper wp pulley

pulley3.jpg


proper crank pulley

nonpspulley.jpg
 
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