Big Block Conversion, do it again?

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I have 2 big block barracudas i might consider saling one or both one of which is a H code 4 speed car both are 68 notchs
 
I used to own and race Barracudas with every variation of small block back in the day. I wanted something different for this car, so I went with a 400, which morphed into the current 500 (same block). I would do it again in a heartbeat. Yes it's more complicated, but it's also way more fun, and does get more attention at the track or at car shows. Of course then again I left the 383 Commando air cleaner on it and now it runs 11.50's with 3.55 gears with closed exhaust.
 

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I've got a 400 bb dart and a 360 cuda. The dart shreds the tires cause of the small wheel wells. Gotta think of the full picture before you decide. Best of luck.
 
Hell yes I would do it again but you haven't lived until you put a hemi in a a-body I did mine 67 convertible 15 years ago before you could get the nice k-frames and headers and yes it was a pain it the a** sometimes. There is lots of trial and error with things like headers, engine mounts, steering linkage, steering column, heater box you can't think of everything you need to change, but nothing beats displacement or eye candy when you open the hood and they can't believe it. I have won more races by just starting it. My engine has aluminum heads, water pump housing and the 70 lbs battery is in the trunk so the hp to weight ratio is very good. I ran 11:30 at 129 mph and totaled a set of used drag radials in 2 passes but it was fun. (the tech guy told me i was done for the day / on a rented track with some friends) I also had a factory 383 Formula S that was a great car, fun to drive, it was a special order car so it had 383 automatic, 3:55 rear, P/S, light package a clock but no tach, AM/FM radio I added the wheels it came with the wire hub caps that said Plymouth in the center. And before anyone says anything about the hood the first owner had the dealership install the Cuda hood scoops on the stock hood when it was new and they put them on in the wrong place so the strip doesn't line up with the Plymouth letters on the header panel. Again I would do it in a heart beat and you wouldn't go wrong with a mild 440. Good Luck what ever you decide
 

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You don't need fenderwell headers, you don't need ANY headers. Every build we've done used B-body HP iron manifolds. The next one will, too. Now, when my son's Barracuda goes back together with the stroked 400 it will probably get some custom headers...
 
Whats the diff? Fenderwells headers is fenderwell headers!
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I think it depends on the power level your after, 350 hp and lower small would be easy choice, 350-450 hp you could go either way 450 hp plus I be definitely thinking big block especially in a street car.
 
273 said:
I think it depends on the power level your after, 350 hp and lower small would be easy choice, 350-450 hp you could go either way 450 hp plus I be definitely thinking big block especially in a street car.
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yes, but don`t use a 440 block w/ raised port heads. it`ll be just as bad as putting a hemi in one, w/ exception of pass. side fenderwell clearance---ask me how I know!
 
69conv said:
I've got a 400 bb dart and a 360 cuda. The dart shreds the tires cause of the small wheel wells. Gotta think of the full picture before you decide. Best of luck.
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If your dart shreds the tires something is wrong with your setup. A 10.50 tire fits in the stock well on a 67+ dart. Have you ever seen the times people run on 10.50 tires?

My car is a small tire car and goes 11.70's on tubeless street tires with street pressure.
 
roccodart440 said:
If your dart shreds the tires something is wrong with your setup. A 10.50 tire fits in the stock well on a 67+ dart. Have you ever seen the times people run on 10.50 tires?

My car is a small tire car and goes 11.70's on tubeless street tires with street pressure.
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A-bodies have room for plenty of tire. My '67 cuda with mild 440 dead hooked on the street with a 9 x 28 tire to high 11s, and that was 20+ years ago. With today's tires and suspension there's no problem at all.
 
Been an interesting thread so far. It started off as pro small block and now it's pro big block. Since I've been considering the same thing as the OP, this has been very interesting.

Right now my Duster is sitting transmission and engineless. I just got my 4 speed (23 spline input non-overdrive) transmission rebuilt. I have a 360 sitting in the garage that needs rebuilding, or I can go big block.

But going with a big block I'd need, complete engine (oil pan to intake), bell housing, clutch, accessory brackets (alternator and power steering), headers, engine mounts, etc. Seems like tons of money, but I guess I can sell off my small block stuff to offset the cost.

I want to keep both my power steering and power brakes. Will have I have a problem with my z-bar? I also don't want fender well headers. Is this all possible with say a 383 or 400? Also, would it be advisable for a daily driver?

I'm hoping that answers to these questions would help the OP as well.
 
Power steering is possible with Schumacher headers. I think the z-bar needs to be modified though.
 
JoesEdge said:
It started off as pro small block and now it's pro big block.

You'll find many of those opposed have never actually built one. Many of those pro, have, especially those that have built one more recently as it has become very easy with OTC stuff.

You'll also hear some stuff about weight andother pure mythological lies etc

I guess I can sell off my small block stuff to offset the cost.

I sold my 340 and trans for 1500 12 years ago.

I want to keep both my power steering and power brakes. Will have I have a problem with my z-bar? I also don't want fender well headers. Is this all possible with say a 383 or 400? Also, would it be advisable for a daily driver?

I don't know about power steering. You don't need power brakes. With the right master cylinder it feels and acts just like power brakes. (hint (7/8" piston)
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Z-bar just needs to be modified. Instructons are available on TTI's website.

You don't need (nor want) fenderwell headers. TTI has what you need.
 
dropping a big block of any size is a bolt in affair these days. you can do it with zero fab work these days. they sell off the shelf headers that will fit/clear/ work with nearly every combo you can think of. I hear about the cost of headers all the time. TTI headers are expensive no matter what engine they fit. you can get schumacker headers for $575 now. you can go the cheap route and use hp b-body manifolds even. then i hear about weight problems. well an aluminum water pump/housing and intake take you near the same weight of a stock iron small block. the big problem as i see it is the handling. these cars handle like shopping carts right off the show room floor. age then 40+ years and drop any motor in there and its going to be a sloppy pig. everyone of these cars needs a front end re-build and stiffer tortion bars no matter what you intend to power it with. then i hear the crying about brakes. anything more then flintstone power needs a disc brake upgrade. hell even your 300k mile slant six running on 2 cylinders can gather enough steam to make a panic stop with factory drums a pants soiling experience. its all about what you got and what you want. any engine can be built to perform to a desired goal. i just think its all about personal preference.
 
JoesEdge a big block would make a great daily driver.
Big displacement will make a lot more low end power compared to a similar built small displacement engine is which you want especially on the streets , that's why factories went bigger displacement in the first place when searching for more power. As for gas mileage, N/A engine of a certain performance (E.T.) will get similar mileage (depending how it's built and driven).
 
I ran fender well headers in my 68 Dart and it was miserable. The floor board would roast and you have to hack gaping holes in the inner fenders like a hillbilly. You also have to run skinny front runners other wise standard size tires will rub the the headers.

I lucked out and found a hardcore numbers matching weirdo that was converting a big block a body back to stock. He sold me the standard ceramic coated headers for only $200! I am going to put them on my 440 68 dart.
 
younggun2.0 said:
the big problem as i see it is the handling. these cars handle like shopping carts right off the show room floor. age then 40+ years and drop any motor in there and its going to be a sloppy pig. everyone of these cars needs a front end re-build and stiffer tortion bars no matter what you intend to power it with. then i hear the crying about brakes. anything more then flintstone power needs a disc brake upgrade. hell even your 300k mile slant six running on 2 cylinders can gather enough steam to make a panic stop with factory drums a pants soiling experience.
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Yup. Since the beginning there has always been guys putting a lot of work into "Look Good Drive Bad". Go all the way with suspension and serious braking upgrades or don't go at all.
 
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