Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Weird. Every time I start reading that link it jumps to a Netflix ad. WTH?
Big Block Gear Drive On A Slant?
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Weird. Every time I start reading that link it jumps to a Netflix ad. WTH?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
What’s wrong with that???? That looks about as good as it gets right there.
As long as the bearing in the idler can get lubrication I’d send that so fast your head would fall off.
That turned out very well.
As for cam thrust I think you’ll need a cam button of sorts to control it.
I’m excited for this thing to run. It will hurt some feelings.
It doesn't have a bearing. It rides right on the pinion.......which was one HARD SOB. I had to take it a friend who works at an industrial machine shop to do it and he broke the first bit and then had to step up to some kind of special badass bit they use for industrial irrigation pumps and that did it.
So you think it'll be ok without a bearing there? That's how all the dual idler sets are that I've seen. I guess I could bore the gear out and press a bushing in it. I'm not sure that's necessary.
Badvert65
Long Time Mopar Nut
I would want to know that oil was getting in there. That looks like it spins at the crank RPM.
jus' sayin'....
jus' sayin'....
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I think you’re golden. You’re putting pressurized oil out there. I’d send it like it is.
I also plan on putting the chamfer on that front main bearing, too. Although that stream will miss the crank gear, it will plow into the timing cover and splatter more oil on the bottom gear.
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
Go ahead and use RED Loctite, the myths about disassembly are exaggerated. Looks fantastic!!!
QUINN FORBES
Greendemon
I like the idea of this!
It makes more sense than trying to get 318hp from a 318 2 bbl. But still… just for shoots and giggles.
I have friends that will be interested in this project.
It makes more sense than trying to get 318hp from a 318 2 bbl. But still… just for shoots and giggles.
I have friends that will be interested in this project.
Ok, sorry for the long quietus on this. But here it is, in all its glory. This is the finished product, sans getting the degree wheel on it, finding true TDC on the crank and cam and remarking the gears. I also need to take the crank gear to my friend Freddie and get him to machine a chamfer, on the front side of the crank gear, which is now the back side. But other than those loose ends, it's done. It only has about .004" slop between the gears and less than one degree of free movement. Much less than a chain.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Thanks for the update.
I am going to disassemble the race engine I purchased a couple of months ago soon.
I will send you some pictures of the gear drive on it.
Cam stop plan for yours?
I am going to disassemble the race engine I purchased a couple of months ago soon.
I will send you some pictures of the gear drive on it.
Cam stop plan for yours?
Yup. I already have it. Our member @Badvert65 makes them out of Delrin. They fit over the bolt and trim to fit. Like this.
Why do some gear drives have only one idler and some have 2 idlers?
Do you have a Parts list for those parts you have used in this install? Obviously, you modified the Top gear to be a one bolt with the drive pin for the Slant 6 cam.
Do you have a Parts list for those parts you have used in this install? Obviously, you modified the Top gear to be a one bolt with the drive pin for the Slant 6 cam.
But of course!
It was originally a two idler gear set for a 440. I had it all mocked up as a two idler set and I just bet there was at least 5 or 6 degrees of slop going back and forth with the crank. So I took one of the idler gears out, filed down the front of the block where it needed to go perfectly flat. Next I located the single idler gear between the crank and cam gears and jacked it all together with a small ratchet strap. Next, I made a 3/8" OD x 5/16" ID sleeve and slid it into the gear pinion. I previously drilled a 3/8" hole dead center all the way through the pinion so I could bolt the whole shebang right to the front of the block. Before I tightened the ratchet strap tight, I folded a standard piece of printer paper folded it in half and put a piece between the cam and idler and another between the cam and idler for clearance. Then I jacked it tight together, slid the sleeve into the pinion as a drill guide and drilled a 5/16" hole right through the front of the block into the crankcase. Then I tapped it to 3/8 x 16 so I could bolt the whole thing right to the front of the block. It worked good, as all I have is about .004" slop in the gears. Just right. Here's a shot after I found TDC on the crank and cam and marked the gears with a black sharpie. I'm going to take everything back apart and center punch and use a small drill bit to make some very visible alignment marks on the gears.
To further answer your question, the dual idler gear drives are for people who want to brag about "I got a gear drive, man" at the cruise ins. They're absolutely worthless as far as keeping accurate cam timing, because the dual idler set can rock back and forth several degrees before the crank ever moves the cam. The single fixed idler removes all of that play. If you look at the price differences between the two, you'll see the prices reflect that. Look at the Milodon single idler setup for the small or big block. They ain't cheap. That's because they're very accurate. I basically turned this dual idler set into a set similar to a Milodon set.
Lastly, I didn't modify the cam gear at all. It's a bolt on swap. I did however, figure that to align the crankshaft properly, the crank gear had to be flipped backwards, so that it would align the teeth correctly. Since I had to remark the gear in any event, that's no big deal.I even get to use the advance bushings that come with the 440 gear kit.
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The windage tray fits perfectly. Thank you sir! This would not be happening without the generosity of people like you.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Your welcome Rusty.
famous bob
mopar misfit
do some research !!!
Well Bob, I'm actually unsure now I'm going to run it. But it's not because of the reasons you've mentioned. I'm probably going to end up running my JP/Rollmaster chain set.
Docmcg
Well-Known Member
Wow! All that work, and you might not run it?
Yeah. Here's why. Guys I need some opinions here please. What do yall think at this slop? Too much?
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