Biohazard

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WOW. Just used up most of my work day reading the entire thread. You, sir, are a bad ***! After reading everything, though, it's like watching an action movie building up, only to have the power go out!

Keep up the amazing work. I just bought a project myself ('71 Dart Swinger) and am taking on my first restoration journey. I learned a TON today and am inspired as all get-out to get mine started. Here's to having some success!

Thank you for your service to our country, and thank you for the excellent re-cap on your project.

Adrian
 
Thanks, Adrian! You might say we are in the process of filming season 2 but this thread will run thru completion. Have no fear.
 
Pulling an eleven-day work week - all day shift from 7 to 7 so very little is happening with the car since its the actual car that I need to work on and not so much individual sub-assemblies.

That distributor cap has red overspray on it indicating it was on their during the last repaint - and I have no idea when that was so I purchased a new cap 'n rotor. BWD Select for the curious. I was sold on the brass contacts and am, quite frankly, more than happy to ditch the tan colored cap anyway. Ewwww.

The floor is now open to recommendations on a quality set of black plug wires.
 
Look at Jacobs at summit, quality wires T a good price.
Made in the USA
 
I think the Firecores are priced out of range for me. Remember, she just a 318 drawing atmosphere through 2 small venturis. I did look for the Jacobs' but Summit's not showing them. Search led me to Taylors and MSDs, both of which seem appropriate for the application and are well-reviewed, even here. Probably going with the Taylors.

What I really need is a replacement OEM 4-wire separator for the right side valve cover.
 
...and that was easy! Decided to search for the wire separator (loom) here on FABO, took me to a "what you can still get at your dealership" thread....which provided a part number, searched google and found these at rtspecialties.net.......



So anyone who needs them can get a complete set for 20 bucks -- but the 15+ shipping kinda sucked. Took another look on eBay and found a brother mopar guy in AZ selling the ones I needed for $6. Victory!



My passenger side clips were both toast but the driver's side ones are fine - just need to scrape the paint off to be "right" but they are perfectly serviceable, as is. He also had a 3-finger alternator wire clip, new, so I bought that, too.
 
New ign parts finding their way in. BWD Select cap and rotor -



Ordered the Taylor wire set.
 
Not all SBM starters are created equal....

Showing the rebuilt starter I bought locally (top) and the one that I pulled from the Barracuda. If you look at the 3rd photo on page 34 of this thread, you can see the bolt under the engine block that prohibits installing the larger starter motor -- even though that part number lists for my car!



Both part numbers list for my car on auto parts websites. Be warned!
 
3755250 is the part number for the larger starter
3656575 is the part number for the one that actually fits.
 
Teeth & Tires said:
3755250 is the part number for the larger starter
3656575 is the part number for the one that actually fits.
Click to expand...

I put a dodge dakota mini starter on my 67 Barracuda and it was way easier and cranks a whole lot better. It was a 2005 dakota I believe. I can check if you need a part number.
 
You continue to do great work!! You're getting oh so close to firing her up!

I see the difference in the starters you mention. The one that came off doesn't have the section mounting bolts sticking out taking up room.

I'm still running the stock gear reduction starter on my Barracuda. I love the look on people's faces when I fire it up. :burnout:
 
Somehow I knew the subject of mini-starters would pop up here. I did do a little reading on it and, for the sake of functionality, they can't be beat. Truth is I may, but i would like to experience hearing the old one at work before I succumb.

There are a couple differences on these starters: the black armature case is a tad longer...about 1/2 an inch and the solenoid mounts differently (though I doubt this impacts installation).

And yes, ignition time is fast approaching. Hopefully, I'll remember to remove the carb and pull the blue tape off the manifold inlet before attempting to crank. :D
 
The Taylor fit nice, I have the same set on my truck for a few years now.
Price is right on them.
 
Price is def right at $35 shipped. Went thru Amazon, fulfilled by Jeg's. :supz:
 
So...stock 318 from 1969...correct carburetor gasket? Or...is one better than the other?

 
So, getting ever closer to bringing the mill back to life. Carburetor off to remove the tape I used to seal up the manifold. Man, I don't care if it is painter's tape...after a year and a half, that stuff is hard to peel off!!



But off it came...


I went with the thinner gasket. Realized the thicker one raised the carb more and might affect choke rod reach.
 
New ground strap for the rear of the motor installed....with a twist.

Here's the connection at the cylinder head:



The other end should be bolted to the firewall in the hole directly above the A/C fittings.



...but I decided to secure it here...



Can't see why that's not every bit as good of a ground point and it leaves the upper firewall looking a tad cleaner. Maybe she'll turn over now.
 
New negative cable acquired, as well.



Still need to run the smaller wire to the radiator support frame but that requires a large ring terminal which I'll be getting tomorrow.

aaaaaand the other end goes......here >

 
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