j440b
Member
Anyone have experience using a bolt on timing chain tensioner?
Looks like it would be helpful for stable timing.
Looks like it would be helpful for stable timing.
Bolt on timing chain tensioner
- Thread starter j440b
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SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
Yes, lot's of good experience...many engines...some engines leaned on really hard - one of those run hard engines got a dissamble due to another problem with 22,000 miles and we reused the chain and tensioner....but just wait...they are coming to get you and will be here any minute now to tell you otherwise. Those whining that it does not work have other problems like poor assembly techniques etc.
Use the mopar part do not use the aftermarket one, drill the 4th hole.
Use the mopar part do not use the aftermarket one, drill the 4th hole.
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Be careful, do a search. Some have been known to rub thru the tensioner leaving chunks running around inside engine.
My opinion if it needs a tensioner, it needs more than that. I dont believe it will help with timing either. That side is always tight.
My opinion if it needs a tensioner, it needs more than that. I dont believe it will help with timing either. That side is always tight.
It would seen to me that "That side is always tight.".......only if the engine is running backwards. I've installed a few of them.
I used one on my 5.9 magnum build. I used an aftermarket double roller chain with it. I pulled that engine apart to swap the cam and found that the tensioner was pretty chewed up.
I think the tensioner was designed to be used with a factory "silent" type chain. I didn't and won't use one again.
I think the tensioner was designed to be used with a factory "silent" type chain. I didn't and won't use one again.
Don't use it They are a bandaid for when you buy junk. It was designed to make up the slack on the junk 6 cyl chains . If you buy a good chain you won't need it. It was designed for use with silent chain only. Not designed for roller chains. Buy a billet Cloyes true roller. and use a dripper
I thought the pass side would be tight with engine running? I've got gears spinning in my head 
Scody21
Just send it
Cloyes chains are junk
No, the drivers side is tight because the crank is pulling it. That’s Y the tensioner is on the pass side to take up the slack. KimI thought the pass side would be tight with engine running? I've got gears spinning in my head
Thanks for explanation Kim.
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
Man you asked for it. You will get all sorts of stories. I have a 3.9 V6 with 225,000 miles on it. Bought the truck new. It has never had a chain. Still runs like a clock, no balls but what ever. I have a 360 with W2 heads I put one in when I did the car 15 plus years ago. Street car I beat on. About 15,000 miles on it now. Never a problem. I have built two 340 engine for friends. Both got one installed. I do not know have many miles they have driven them but I haven't heard them call me bitching. With that said, there are cheap ones and there are good ones just like any other part. Buy good parts and they don't have a problem.
I agree.
You have to use the right type timing chain to avoid what Steve tasks about in the 2nd post. He's right, though. If you use the type timing chain that has "dog bone" style links and not straight links, it will damage the tensioner shoes. Make sure the timing set you use has the straight links.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I put one in my Duster's previous 360 with a double roller chain, when the engine kicked the bucket after 25,000 miles (pinged itself to death, too high of static compression for the cam I used) I found the chain had dug grooves into the tensioner. Next one I built which is in the car currently got a Cloyes true roller and no tensioner. Timing is rock solid at idle.
I want to say this current engine which is a junkyard 5.9L Magnum out of a 2000 Dodge 2500 pickup didn't have a tensioner when I first pulled it apart but can't remember for sure. I think @Oldmanmopar is right, it was more a crutch for the 3.9L V6 as they had uneven firing and would stretch the chain quicker than a V8. Some Magnum V8s got them but not all, I'm pretty sure.
I put the tensioners on roller chains. It has been my experience that the links do wear into the shoe until the rollers contact the tensioner and then the shoe wear stops. I'm happy with that as I've never had a tensioner fail. I too believe it was not designed to be run with a roller timing chain and......don't really care.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Of you really care about accurate cam timing, buy once, cry once and get a Milodon gear drive.
"That side" is referring to the pull side not the loose side where the tensioner goes
I have had a tensioner fail and chunks of plastic get between the chain and gear shearing the pins holding the links together.
If the chain is designed to have a tensioner go with it.
If the chain is not designed for one don't add it.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
There is a reason why real performance engines use a belt or gear drive.
I find it a bit odd that guys will spend thousands of dollars on a great engine and then cheap out on a 150 dollar timing chain.
Just cRaZy IMO.
Thats stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds.
I find it a bit odd that guys will spend thousands of dollars on a great engine and then cheap out on a 150 dollar timing chain.
Just cRaZy IMO.
Thats stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds.
We are going to belt drive with a crank trigger ignition. Distributor on the front of the cam. I'll have a nice billet cover for sale when it comes off. My son is going to start making them on a CNC.
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Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
VERY COOL. I especially love that distributor drive. Very nice.
Vamisk
Well-Known Member
I've heard many an old fart claim gears are a time bomb despite all of your heavy duty and medium duty diesels using gear drives. Yes the Cummins dowel pin and all but when built properly a gear drive will last forever and never lose time.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
My brother had one on his 408 and my currently has one on his that's sitting on an engine stand.
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