Dirty_Demon
Active Member
I have a few threads regarding this car with questions about suspension, turbo etc. I was looking for a "Builds" or "Project" area in the forum and couldn't find one so I am choosing the "Forced Induction" section since this car is getting a turbo.
In an effort to help relieve the FABO website of unnecessary bandwidth, I created a very simple photo gallery to document my build. Since I own a web development company it was the natural thing to do. The gallery is located here.
www.dirtylittledemon.com
This is a 1972 Dodge Demon all original with the exception of the slap shifter which I believe came out of a B body. I will be updating build specifics in this thread to avoid annoying multiple threads and will be referencing my photo gallery which is easy to navigate.
Currently there is one "collection" which is called "72 Demon BEFORE" which contains 3 different photo albums. As I start the build I will be adding additional "collections" with specific photo albums based on subject matter. My end goal is to make it easy to navigate and hopefully allow me to put up a TON of images that I can use to ask questions from the knowledgeable people here at FABO as well as help others.
Plans for the car.
Engine:
318 Magnum out of a 1998 Dodge Dakota.
Turbo
forged pistons
cast crank
main studs and head studs
Hughes Engines intake and cam
MSD dizzy locked out
Timing and fuel controlled via Megasquirt III
Heads are undecided. I need to see what "funds" will allow.
Compression will be around 8.5:1 or 9:1 at the most.
Stock stroke. Please refrain from unwanted "suggestions" or judgements regarding using a stock 318 stroke instead of adding a 4" stroke. The reason is simple. Longer stroke means more stress on the rods and crank.
I will also be sending bearings, crank, pistons, rods and anything else I can to competitiveedgecoatings.com in CT to be dry lube coated. The extra layer of lubricant on the crank and main bearings will help with the heat. It will also help get the oil to "fall" back into the back quicker.
Suspension:
HDK.. i looked at all the competition and even called most of them. Most were helpful but HDK or "HemiDenny" was by far the most helpful. He did not once try to sell me his product. Instead he just asked what I wanted to do with the car and make suggestions and educated me on things I was going to need to deal with. Putting a HDK front end on my car is just a no brainer.
First thing I am going to do is pull the interior, empty the trunk, remove the wiring and bumpers then fab up a rotisserie. I'll document all that on here and in the photo gallery.
Initial conditions of the car:
Original paint ( Petty Blue )
was a /6 car with a 904. I bought the car without the engine and tranny.
looks like the passenger front "bumped" something low. Bumper is "slightly" angled in on that side, the bottom of the front fender is pushed in a little and the fender support is slightly bent. From the top all the lines are straight and there is no "wrinkling" in the frame or anywhere else.
The roof is clean. No dents or dings.
The trunk is clean. No dents or dings.
Hood is also clean ..
Driver front fender looks to have at in the sun. Initial thought was poor bondo repair job but after inspection it appears the original paint/skim coat from the factory just cracked from sitting in the sun
bottom of both doors are perfect
passenger rocker is dented and has a rot hole. Replace rocker
Front valance is dented in.. not sure if that can be salvaged. I hope it can be.
Driver front fender has a little rot at the rear bottom. i think a patch panel can make that front fender good as new
driver rear quarter has the standard rot on the rear bottom.Patch panel and inner trunk connectors and should be good as new.
driver frame rail is rotted.... won't replace.. just going to cut out the rot and repair. I plan on stiffening the frame so no need to replace it. will be stronger when I am done anyways.
driver floor rotted out. It appears that the car sat with the driver window down and water got in the driver side , rotted out the floor then dripped down and rotted the drivers frame. Too much of a coincidence that the worst rot is in the same area.
Small dents and dings. Some are on places that I am uncomfortable beating with a hammer so I might have to bring the car to lcars.com and have them handle the more sensitive areas. An example is a dent on the top line of the driver rear quarter. For an old car it has the normal wear and tear as far as dings go. Nothing major
Has all the glass
dash looks brand new. I have all the parts. The previous owner wanted to put a slap shifter on it.. Shitty weld job. I will be removing it. Half the pieces are missing anyways.
Rear seat looks brand new.. like nobody ever sat in it.. absolutely amazing. Front seats appear to be attacked by a tiger.
All in all the car is in great shape for a project. I can't wait to get started. Enjoy the pics.
In an effort to help relieve the FABO website of unnecessary bandwidth, I created a very simple photo gallery to document my build. Since I own a web development company it was the natural thing to do. The gallery is located here.
www.dirtylittledemon.com
This is a 1972 Dodge Demon all original with the exception of the slap shifter which I believe came out of a B body. I will be updating build specifics in this thread to avoid annoying multiple threads and will be referencing my photo gallery which is easy to navigate.
Currently there is one "collection" which is called "72 Demon BEFORE" which contains 3 different photo albums. As I start the build I will be adding additional "collections" with specific photo albums based on subject matter. My end goal is to make it easy to navigate and hopefully allow me to put up a TON of images that I can use to ask questions from the knowledgeable people here at FABO as well as help others.
Plans for the car.
Engine:
318 Magnum out of a 1998 Dodge Dakota.
Turbo
forged pistons
cast crank
main studs and head studs
Hughes Engines intake and cam
MSD dizzy locked out
Timing and fuel controlled via Megasquirt III
Heads are undecided. I need to see what "funds" will allow.
Compression will be around 8.5:1 or 9:1 at the most.
Stock stroke. Please refrain from unwanted "suggestions" or judgements regarding using a stock 318 stroke instead of adding a 4" stroke. The reason is simple. Longer stroke means more stress on the rods and crank.
I will also be sending bearings, crank, pistons, rods and anything else I can to competitiveedgecoatings.com in CT to be dry lube coated. The extra layer of lubricant on the crank and main bearings will help with the heat. It will also help get the oil to "fall" back into the back quicker.
Suspension:
HDK.. i looked at all the competition and even called most of them. Most were helpful but HDK or "HemiDenny" was by far the most helpful. He did not once try to sell me his product. Instead he just asked what I wanted to do with the car and make suggestions and educated me on things I was going to need to deal with. Putting a HDK front end on my car is just a no brainer.
First thing I am going to do is pull the interior, empty the trunk, remove the wiring and bumpers then fab up a rotisserie. I'll document all that on here and in the photo gallery.
Initial conditions of the car:
Original paint ( Petty Blue )
was a /6 car with a 904. I bought the car without the engine and tranny.
looks like the passenger front "bumped" something low. Bumper is "slightly" angled in on that side, the bottom of the front fender is pushed in a little and the fender support is slightly bent. From the top all the lines are straight and there is no "wrinkling" in the frame or anywhere else.
The roof is clean. No dents or dings.
The trunk is clean. No dents or dings.
Hood is also clean ..
Driver front fender looks to have at in the sun. Initial thought was poor bondo repair job but after inspection it appears the original paint/skim coat from the factory just cracked from sitting in the sun
bottom of both doors are perfect
passenger rocker is dented and has a rot hole. Replace rocker
Front valance is dented in.. not sure if that can be salvaged. I hope it can be.
Driver front fender has a little rot at the rear bottom. i think a patch panel can make that front fender good as new
driver rear quarter has the standard rot on the rear bottom.Patch panel and inner trunk connectors and should be good as new.
driver frame rail is rotted.... won't replace.. just going to cut out the rot and repair. I plan on stiffening the frame so no need to replace it. will be stronger when I am done anyways.
driver floor rotted out. It appears that the car sat with the driver window down and water got in the driver side , rotted out the floor then dripped down and rotted the drivers frame. Too much of a coincidence that the worst rot is in the same area.
Small dents and dings. Some are on places that I am uncomfortable beating with a hammer so I might have to bring the car to lcars.com and have them handle the more sensitive areas. An example is a dent on the top line of the driver rear quarter. For an old car it has the normal wear and tear as far as dings go. Nothing major
Has all the glass
dash looks brand new. I have all the parts. The previous owner wanted to put a slap shifter on it.. Shitty weld job. I will be removing it. Half the pieces are missing anyways.
Rear seat looks brand new.. like nobody ever sat in it.. absolutely amazing. Front seats appear to be attacked by a tiger.
All in all the car is in great shape for a project. I can't wait to get started. Enjoy the pics.
