Borgeson or Firm Feel steering?

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The cooler helps fluid temps. However, its the higher relief pressure if you're using our pumps that makes it a good choice. Not all Mopars had coolers so I wouldn't get nuts if you don't want to add it. We also smooth the fluid passages in the box for lower temps. Synthetic fluid helps as well.
 
I think if you have header tubes close to steering box I would add a cooler. Small blocks with cast iron manifolds cooler might not be needed.
 
Bob Jasinski said:
I ordered my kit from Bergman, and am not planning on installing a cooler. Please share what happened.
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I was doing a track day on a 9 turn 2.5 mile road course with I think 15min sessions. The fluid got hot and did not not vent enough out of the cap, built pressure and blew the top off the pump. Not the best at a hair pin turn at the end of a 1/2 mile straightaway. I changed to a type 2 style pump and added a cooler and never had the problem again. I believe Kern Dog was right behind me when that happened.

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Evan? Is that you?
I remember seeing the cap and snout fly off the car! I was following you in this car:

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We have a Saginaw pump reservoir that is designed for external reservoirs. It eliminates the neck and replaces it with a -10AN feed. No need to change pumps.
 
Cooler? You don’t need no stinking cooler! I got my set up from BAC and am pleased.

@BergmanAutoCraft what size are the lines/fittings on the pump without a reservoir? Do you have to change the fittings on the gearbox with the remote style and cooler?
 
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The remote reservoir and a simple cooler is the only way to go on an open track event. I only sell PSC reservoirs as everything else I've seen is a joke.

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go-fish said:
Cooler? You don’t need no stinking cooler! I got my set up from BAC and am pleased.

@BergmanAutoCraft what size are the lines/fittings on the pump without a reservoir? Do you have to change the fittings on the gearbox with the remote style and cooler?
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Well I think I found out I did! At that time it had a Borgeson box from Pete and a stock style Saginaw pump and no cooler and synthetic fluid, clearly that had its limits and I found them. It now still has the Borgeson box but now a Turn 1 aluminum HP pump, large aluminum reservoir and an external extruded aluminum cooler and its held together for almost 9 years of abuse. I think that fixed the problem....
 
gold66cuda said:
Well I think I found out I did!
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I have a Sweet Mfg Pump on my e-body that is just like a Turn 1. I really like it as it runs the r&p AND the hydroboost. Mine is mounted on the Procharger mount plate.
Does this style pump require custom bracketry on a small block?
 
I am familiar with that pump, yes very similar. Sounds like its a busy pump for you and it works well?
Yes I had to fab up the bracketry for it and size a pulley for my small block application.
 
I received my Borgeson kit from Bergman's this week and am looking things over. In comparing the new box with the factory unit, there is a difference in the bolt hole diameters between the two. The Borgeson holes are .570" vs .490" on the Mopar box. I have the correct 12 point head 7/16" (.437") bolts, so they have a sloppy fit, and am a bit concerned about potential movement of the box. As far as a threadlocker, I won't use red, but there is a new orange out that holds better than blue, and you can still remove the bolts without heat, but takes considerable effort. I've read that early A bodies had issues with power steering boxes loosening up, and that was the basis for the invention of threadlocker.
 
Mopar Action magazine had a comment on this issue. Rick cut three sleeves to fit in the mounting holes in the housing of the steering unit.
He took a tubular bracket spacer or something similar to fill the void.
 
I bought a 3' section of of 1/2" aluminum tube at Home Depot. Drilled the center out to 7/16" and cut the spacers with a pipe cutter. Fits well now, just the right amount of play to fit it onto the K-frame. If you can find 7/16" compression ferrules they work too, but are hard to find, 3/8" and 1/2" are commonly available but won't work.

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That is exactly what I was thinking. Some solutions are quite simple if you just think a little bit.
It is unfortunate that some stuff we buy still needs modification but hey...These are not kit-cars, these are classic cars with non original parts that are modified to work in an older car.
 
I didn't look for differences in bolt hole sizes. I just bolted mine in. It came loose once retightened it was fine since
 
Bob Jasinski said:
Coming loose is what I'm concerned about. Did you use threadlock when you first put it in? Blue?
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No thread lock. And I was negligent with torquing to spec too on initial install. Some blue thread lock would be a good idea.
 
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