Brad Penn oil, Anyone useing it

-
what is some of your guy's thoughts on using a lighter weight oil? instead of 20/50 maybe a 10/40 or 10/30? does it make a difference for a hyd. flat tappet cam?
 
mopardude318 said:
what is some of your guy's thoughts on using a lighter weight oil? instead of 20/50 maybe a 10/40 or 10/30? does it make a difference for a hyd. flat tappet cam?
Click to expand...

Depends on the build. For a rebuilt engine with good tolerances 10-30 or 10-40 is great. For a factory engine with higher miles 20-50 helps keep the pressure up, especially when its 110* out.
 
Yes. Brad Penn
One advantage of Brad Penn (and similar smaller specialty companies) is that they aren't changing constantly changing the formulation to meet new needs and or marketing.
I believe Valvoline makes 3 versions of the Racing Oil. Two could be used on the street - the third is for engines that rebuilt after x number of races.

You should base the SAE weights on the bearing clearances, pressure and oil temperature. You may find a different wt is needed for the track than street use.

A very good digital paper on the subject is Richard Widman's Oil for Corvairs
available here -
http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Links.html
 
After reading on this thread, that there was a chance that Valvoline lowered their ppm of zinc and phosphorus in their VR 1 racing oil, I was a little concerned since I run this oil All might flat tappet engines. So today I called Valvoline customer support and spoke with the" technician", who informed me that the ppm in the VR 1 racing oil has not been changed in the past at least 15 years. It still contains 1400 ppm Zink and 1300 ppm phosphorus. They also sent me this spec sheet on the oil which I have included in my post. I'm not trying to start any arguments or hijack any threads, that's a last thing I would want to do. Brad Penn and Valvoline are both IMO fine oils.
 

Attachments

  • Val 1 (1).jpg
    81.5 KB · Views: 469
  • Val 2 (2).jpg
    85.1 KB · Views: 448
Mr.FT said:
After reading on this thread, that there was a chance that Valvoline lowered their ppm of zinc and phosphorus in their VR 1 racing oil, I was a little concerned since I run this oil All might flat tappet engines. So today I called Valvoline customer support and spoke with the" technician", who informed me that the ppm in the VR 1 racing oil has not been changed in the past at least 15 years. It still contains 1400 ppm Zink and 1300 ppm phosphorus. They also sent me this spec sheet on the oil which I have included in my post. I'm not trying to start any arguments or hijack any threads, that's a last thing I would want to do. Brad Penn and Valvoline are both IMO fine oils.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I wonder why it has an API rating of SM then, because that would usually indicate a lower zinc level than that. I haven't talked to Valvoline or anything, but an SM rated oil typically has half that amount of zinc. Usually you want something that's at least SL or SJ rated, and the 10-40 VR1 oil isn't. At least not the stuff I can get at the local auto store. Maybe the API just changed the way they rated it a few years back. The info that I had was simply based on the rating, but I've seen it brought up more than a few times in regard to VR1's zinc level. The spec sheet obviously shows that it has plenty of zinc for flat tappet engines.

Guide to API rating info...

[ame="http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/motor_oil_guide_2010_120210.pdf"]http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/motor_oil_guide_2010_120210.pdf[/ame]
 
I know what you mean, I've heard it more than once also. I have heard it about a few other brands not just valvoline. I agree with you that maybe they changed ratings or the way they rate the oils. :)
 
Mr.FT said:
I know what you mean, I've heard it more than once also. I have heard it about a few other brands not just valvoline. I agree with you that maybe they changed ratings or the way they rate the oils. :)
Click to expand...

So much for looking at the ratings. Guess you have to look up the data sheet for any oil you want to use. Makes it easy right? :banghead:
 
I use the VR1 in my solid flat tappet stroker and have heard the stories of the lowered zinc levels. I use a comp cam and called there tech dept and was told that the VR1 is just fine.
 
I run regular Valvoline 10/40 in summer 10/30 in winter. I also add a can of Zinc additive, have yet to see any shavings on my oil pan plug magnet.
 
I made the switch to Brad Penn 10/30. I love it! Also changing from 20/50 to 10/30 has made a difference in power! It's true!! I wouldn't **** ya...:D
 
CUDACOX said:
I made the switch to Brad Penn 10/30. I love it! Also changing from 20/50 to 10/30 has made a difference in power! It's true!! I wouldn't **** ya...:D
Click to expand...
back in the day, we ran what ever was supplied us by small sponsers, no problems w/ any of them. a lot of it depends on how your engine is built.
on another note, a freind has a very fast vega w/sbc, saw him break a motor w/ the high dollar kendall in it, he didn`t think it was funny when I told him the high dollar oil he was bragging about didn`t look any better out there on the ground underneath the engine than any other oil!--felt sorry for him tho, but he`s an excellant mech., wasn`t too big a deal for him.-------bob:eek:ops::eek:ops:
 
67mopr said:
I run regular Valvoline 10/40 in summer 10/30 in winter. I also add a can of Zinc additive, have yet to see any shavings on my oil pan plug magnet.
Click to expand...
My engine builder told me I don't need to run synthetic. A good oil will be fine and that's what I do. I know it cost more and it might not be right but I don't go by mileage. I go buy color. The minute the oils in my vehicle's start to turn a medium gold color I change it. None of mine have ever seen black oil.
oh now I do run a can of Lucas in my mustang and Dakota.
 
I use shell rotella,as it has high zinc in it,and its 15-40.which is cheaper than 6.99 quart for brad penn,also run moble delvac 15-40 with lucas added
 
I have been running Kendall racing 20/50 GT-1 since the 416 was completed 4 years ago changing my oil once a year at probably just a couple thousand miles a year. Not a ton of miles but so far so good. Idling close to 40 psi (~1000 rpm in neutral) today at 90+ degrees after my 10 or so mile drive home stop and go through traffic. I paid $3.19 a quart for the last case I bought this spring. My cam is a fairly agressive flat tappet. I will be the test subject but we will see how long this lasts as I feel this is a great oil option at a good price as they supposedly have enough zinc left in their formula.
 
michformulaS said:
I have been running Kendall racing 20/50 GT-1 since the 416 was completed 4 years ago changing my oil once a year at probably just a couple thousand miles a year. Not a ton of miles but so far so good. Idling close to 40 psi (~1000 rpm in neutral) today at 90+ degrees after my 10 or so mile drive home stop and go through traffic. I paid $3.19 a quart for the last case I bought this spring. My cam is a fairly agressive flat tappet. I will be the test subject but we will see how long this lasts as I feel this is a great oil option at a good price as they supposedly have enough zinc left in their formula.
Click to expand...
I have wondered about Kendall....I don't always see the need to by the high dollar stuff when you have cheaper stuff that works just as good.
 
I don't know whats running in the barracuda right now, but on the old 4.2L flat tappet jeep engines (and the 4.0L's for that matter) all we ever ran was Shell Rottella T 15/40 diesel oil. Worked wonders on those engines, and being old school diesel oil if I remember correctly it had a high zinc content as well.
Brad Penn.. Im going to have to look into that oil. Never heard of it.
 
Brad Penn 10w-30 here over 800 runs on my current 363 and everything looks great inside.
 
Brad Penn 10W 30 here, great oil , great results over 800 runs on my current 363 and everything looks good and clean inside.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0178.jpg
    137.2 KB · Views: 259
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top