Brad Penn oil, Anyone useing it

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I run VR1 in the silver bottle, it says right on the back not recommended for cars with cat converters, has more than enough zinc in fact I think there was a recent oil analisis that showed it had more than Brad Penn. VR1 also has a "not for street use " only difference than the regular race oil is it has very low detergent.
 
67mopr said:
I run regular Valvoline 10/40 in summer 10/30 in winter. I also add a can of Zinc additive, have yet to see any shavings on my oil pan plug magnet.
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You won't see bearing shavings. You'll see metallics all over the cam galley, up high, if you pull an intake on a flat tappet engine, running conventional oils that have no phosphorus.

It has little or nothing to do with zinc. Flat tappet engines need phosphorus.

When buy a flat tappet cam, they parkerize them, just like a gun or knife. It's a heat activated coating of phosphorus and becomes embedded into the surface of the cam lobe and lifter, in a circular pattern, during break in.

Unless you put phosphorus back into your oil, as of 2011, there is no zinc and extremely low traces of phosphorus, if not zero, depending on which conventional oil you are running. Catalytic converters hate heavy metals, because it screws up the platinum, pulling hydrocarbons, so manufacturers took it out.

Zinc helps with longivity of oil life. Phosphorus helps with surface tension. The idea is that the high strength of the material from the parkerizing and in the oil equalize the strength between the two surfaces, so the two surfaces don't begin to sacrifice the weaker of the two components.

michformulaS said:
I have been running Kendall racing 20/50 GT-1 since the 416 was completed 4 years ago changing my oil once a year at probably just a couple thousand miles a year. Not a ton of miles but so far so good. Idling close to 40 psi (~1000 rpm in neutral) today at 90+ degrees after my 10 or so mile drive home stop and go through traffic. I paid $3.19 a quart for the last case I bought this spring. My cam is a fairly agressive flat tappet. I will be the test subject but we will see how long this lasts as I feel this is a great oil option at a good price as they supposedly have enough zinc left in their formula.
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67mopr said:
I have wondered about Kendall....I don't always see the need to by the high dollar stuff when you have cheaper stuff that works just as good.
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I have yet to look into Kendall, but I know that Brad Penn is running the original Kendall foundry, with the same people, even, and the same formula as the original GT-1. That is Brad Penn's Penn Grade 1 oil.
 
ConocoPhillips,bought Kendall's name brand,not the original zinc/phosphorus formulas.They may have a hi content oil available,I have never seen it. AFAIK,Bran Penn ,is the only one still using that formula.
 
440outlawdart said:
I use shell rotella,as it has high zinc in it,and its 15-40.which is cheaper than 6.99 quart for brad penn,also run moble delvac 15-40 with lucas added
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Rotella no longer has zinc like it did. Check out many reports on line.
 
Valvoline® VR1 Racing Oil s high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Valvoline Racing Oil s exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.
 

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Going to be using Brad Penn in my 416. Few different engine builders recommended it so I figured id give it a shot. Prior to now I have always just ran a zinc additive and knock on wood always had good luck.
 
Just bought a new flat-tappet cam from Isky. They do not like synthetic oils, especially low viscosity index numbers ( ie 0w-15 and 5w-20 ). They feel Brad Penn Grade 1 is the best, but also recommend Valvoline Racing or Pennzoil GTP Racing Oil for flat-tappet cams. The only Synthetic oils they recommend are Amzoil (Red) racing oil or Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil for flat-tappet cams.

Valvoline VR1 Racing oil is rated SM/SL/CD, from the back of my VR1 SAE 30 Racing oil.

[ame]http://www.amref.com/CMSFiles/File/bp_pb/7139_40_15_17_BP_PG1_Monograde_HP_Oils_PB.pdf[/ame]

[ame]http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf[/ame]
 
I run their 20/50 in my 498 stroker from day one. No issues. It's good stuff and recommended from many engine builders including mine.
 
With the new so called "cleaner diesels" out there zinc is being removed from that oil as well. Caution using diesel oil thinking it has high zinc content...they are messing with that oil now to!
 
I'll be using Brad Penn in my current 496" build. I've heard nothing but good things about it from some very reliable and reputable guys in the industry. Based on that I figured I'd give it a go. FYI, this is in a solid roller Procharged application.
 
DaveBonds said:
You won't see bearing shavings. You'll see metallics all over the cam galley, up high, if you pull an intake on a flat tappet engine, running conventional oils that have no phosphorus.

It has little or nothing to do with zinc. Flat tappet engines need phosphorus.

When buy a flat tappet cam, they parkerize them, just like a gun or knife. It's a heat activated coating of phosphorus and becomes embedded into the surface of the cam lobe and lifter, in a circular pattern, during break in.

Unless you put phosphorus back into your oil, as of 2011, there is no zinc and extremely low traces of phosphorus, if not zero, depending on which conventional oil you are running. Catalytic converters hate heavy metals, because it screws up the platinum, pulling hydrocarbons, so manufacturers took it out.

Zinc helps with longivity of oil life. Phosphorus helps with surface tension. The idea is that the high strength of the material from the parkerizing and in the oil equalize the strength between the two surfaces, so the two surfaces don't begin to sacrifice the weaker of the two components.





I have yet to look into Kendall, but I know that Brad Penn is running the original Kendall foundry, with the same people, even, and the same formula as the original GT-1. That is Brad Penn's Penn Grade 1 oil.
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Thanks,education is an wonderful thing,D.B... Totally forgot,about the phosphorus.... (DING!)...
 
been running brad penn 20-50 in the old 383 with who knows how many miles, for 3 years, shes got a carbon ring 1/16" thick at the top of the bore and gets tortured every time i drive it. high in zinc and stays smooth forever. ill never use anything but the ol green oil
 
we run the VR1 20w50 in all of our cars. some are rollers and some are flat tappets. never had a problem. have never heard a bad thing about Brad Penn, either.

I work on diesel engines every day. for you guys running the Rotella......be careful!
 
I use Amsoil Z Rod. It's a high zinc synthetic oil. Available in 10w-30 or 20w-50.

Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
Modern Technology For Classic Cars
AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage.
Product Code: ZRTQT-EA
Package Size:
Unit of Measure:
Quantity:
Retail Price (USD):


Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
Modern Technology For Classic Cars
AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage.
Product Code: ZRFQT-EA
Package Size:
Unit of Measure:
Quantity:
Retail Price (USD):
 
I must be the weird one here,My engine builder told me nothing but Mobil 1 and he builds sprint car motor's for a living,He told me ONLY Mobil 1 and that;s all he uses in the sprint car alcohol motors--Steve
 
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