Skeeter007
Skeeter007
PST bars also arrived also if I forgot to mention that.
Brake conversion. Lower control arm swap?
- Thread starter Skeeter007
- Start date
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cudamark
Well-Known Member
You need the disc brake ones. If you can't find the factory ones, just make sure they're at least grade 8 and fit snug in the hole.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Actually, that lower control arm started in 1962. The first sway bar LCA's started in 1965 and was the same in '66. The tabs were slightly different than the '67-72 version, but, they do interchange and will work with the factory bars in their respective years. If the OP is going to use an aftermarket sway bar with his '71 K-member in this swap, I would probably use a LCA without any tabs, unless you can find an aftermarket one that uses the factory tabs. Find the sway bar you wish to use and see what the manufacturer recommends or requires.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Thanks for the info. I’ll post in the wanted section with my application and see what pops up.
Any word on my 71 lower ball joint to spindle bolts. I’m guessing I can use them on my 73 lower ball joint to 73 spindle.
1/2 inch diameter bolts are used on 1972 and earlier DRUM brake cars. A body.
9/16 inch diameter bolts are used on 1965-72 DISC brake cars. A body.
5/8 inch diameter bolts are used on 73-76 disc, drum, brake cars. A body.
FYI
I keep these in stock.
[FOR SALE] - Bolts, Lower Ball Joint To Spindle. A,B,E, Body. Disc & Drum Brakes.
9/16 inch diameter bolts are used on 1965-72 DISC brake cars. A body.
5/8 inch diameter bolts are used on 73-76 disc, drum, brake cars. A body.
FYI
I keep these in stock.
[FOR SALE] - Bolts, Lower Ball Joint To Spindle. A,B,E, Body. Disc & Drum Brakes.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
More parts arrived..... Getting closer!
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Anyone use one of these on a conversion?
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Nice!!!!
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
And more parts!!!!
Just need some brake lines and some ends....
Just need some brake lines and some ends....
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
A little progress today. Broke an upper cam bolt that stopped me dead in my tracks... parts ordered. Get back to it at first light
View attachment 1715545090
View attachment 1715545090
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Tie rods and new cam bolts arrived late today. 
Make sure to check the new cam bolts against the old ones.
It was awhile ago, but there were some that weren’t threaded far enough down the bolt so the washer and nut would bottom out before the bushing was squeezed down. So the alignment wouldn’t hold. And then if you do something like torque the ever-living-crap out of the bolt, rather than investigating what’s actually wrong, you can have a bolt failure. Wasn’t me, but it definitely happened.
Good practice anyway, not all the reproduction stuff matches the originals and it can cause issues.
It was awhile ago, but there were some that weren’t threaded far enough down the bolt so the washer and nut would bottom out before the bushing was squeezed down. So the alignment wouldn’t hold. And then if you do something like torque the ever-living-crap out of the bolt, rather than investigating what’s actually wrong, you can have a bolt failure. Wasn’t me, but it definitely happened.
Good practice anyway, not all the reproduction stuff matches the originals and it can cause issues.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Thanks for the tip. I’ll check it in the morning
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
......................
Another FABO member had some that had flats on 2 sides. They failed.
Same member. It had nothing to do with flats being cut on both sides and everything to do with the threads not extending far enough. And the bolt being over torqued to near failure before it hit the road.
Either way, a simple visual comparison between the new and old parts would have revealed the issue.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Bolts are bang on guys! Very happy.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
More progress. Old parts now off. Disc’s are now installed. New front end complete. Ball joints upper, lower, tie rods are done, inner and outer. New spindles and callipers. New 1.03 torsion bars Installed. New disc brake master cylinder installed. Stopping power will be noticeable now. More pics tomorrow. Tomorrow’s agenda is new brake lines all around. Install Wilwood prop valve. 1/2
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
2/2.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
Keep us posted.
Here's where I'm at.
Here's where I'm at.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Install complete, new brake lines front to back. Bleeding done and happy to inform that there is no leaks and the car stops like a champ. Wilwood prop valve works perfect. Observation: I matched the tie rod measurements to the drum set up and as expected are way off. Toeing out. The bolts I acquired For the balljoint to spindles needed to be shaved 1/4 inch to clear the sway bar tabs on the pre 73 lowers. The tires stick out further than the pre 73 setup. Until my rear ended is done I’m going to use spacers to pull the rears out to match the stance in the front. I figure 1/4 inch. I used the 73 style bushings for the strut bar that are considerably larger on my set up and accounted for that in the tightening. They seem to work great. Pro tip. If you can’t get you torsion bars out or their stiff , undo the strut nut on the lower then undo the lower pin bolt to k-frame and use a rubber mallet on the lower to knock out the torsion bar. Alternatively get a tool. The PST bars are great! This was very rewarding and took 3 days to complete a full re and re fumbling along and watching lots of videos. Many trips to the part store. Also good starting point for the adjusters to keep the body off the bump stops is just the heads of the bolts peeking through the lowers.(PST 1.03) I’ll fire up some photo soon. Car needs a serious alignment now. Now it’s time to set the stance and get an alignment. Tires that are on the front were used to test the car and avoid damage to my good set. Have a set of cheap tires around to make the test runs and to get you to the alignment shop. Once there they can swap them out while doing the alignment.
I’ll post up how she handles and brakes over the next few days
Thanks for following along.
I’ll post up how she handles and brakes over the next few days
Thanks for following along.
Looks good!
"pro tip" huh? I mean, I don't want to say "I told you so" but using the LCA's to remove the torsion bars is hands down the easiest way to do it, and no fancy torsion bar tools are needed. Heck I had a Mancini torsion bar tool I bought before I knew better, I sold it because I never needed it. They don't fit torsion bars much larger than 1" very well anyway.
I'm a little concerned about one thing though, using the later 73+ strut rod bushings on the earlier strut rods. The 67-72 and 73+ strut rods are not identical, they were actually designed for use with the bushings that were for those specific year ranges. The effective length of the strut rods was the same when using the right bushings, but, the threaded sections and the "stops" on the strut rods for the bushing cups weren't in the same place. So using later bushings on the earlier strut rods might cause you alignment issues, specifically with caster. In an extreme case it could also cause binding in the suspension as it moves through the range of travel.
"pro tip" huh?
I mean, I don't want to say "I told you so" but using the LCA's to remove the torsion bars is hands down the easiest way to do it, and no fancy torsion bar tools are needed. Heck I had a Mancini torsion bar tool I bought before I knew better, I sold it because I never needed it. They don't fit torsion bars much larger than 1" very well anyway. I'm a little concerned about one thing though, using the later 73+ strut rod bushings on the earlier strut rods. The 67-72 and 73+ strut rods are not identical, they were actually designed for use with the bushings that were for those specific year ranges. The effective length of the strut rods was the same when using the right bushings, but, the threaded sections and the "stops" on the strut rods for the bushing cups weren't in the same place. So using later bushings on the earlier strut rods might cause you alignment issues, specifically with caster. In an extreme case it could also cause binding in the suspension as it moves through the range of travel.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Looks good!
"pro tip" huh?
I'm a little concerned about one thing though, using the later 73+ strut rod bushings on the earlier strut rods. The 67-72 and 73+ strut rods are not identical, they were actually designed for use with the bushings that were for those specific year ranges. The effective length of the strut rods was the same when using the right bushings, but, the threaded sections and the "stops" on the strut rods for the bushing cups weren't in the same place. So using later bushings on the earlier strut rods might cause you alignment issues, specifically with caster. In an extreme case it could also cause binding in the suspension as it moves through the range of travel.
I thought this too. Like there is a huge difference in size that’s for sure. This was the set that came with the used set of LCA,UCA and spindles. So I thought I would try. When you look at the 1971 bar and see the cotter pin hole has about three inches of space before the bolt. With the 73 bushing you have no space. It meets right up to the pin. I was concerned at first but when I started tightening the strut rod to k frame bolt I left the LC pin bolt off. I watched as the two inch gap between the LC to K Frame disappeared. I could even go tighter on the bushing and really throw a pinch in it. So we’ll see what happens at the alignment shop on Thursday. May very well have to change them out or just tighten the crap out of them. p.s I had to pull my torsion barn back out and used the tool and it marks up the bar pretty good. I then used the other method of removal on the second bar. I wish I would have seen your post before. All and all a successful operation.
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