Brake drum removal HELP
- Thread starter Cuda Hunter
- Start date
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Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
I am going to go cut/grind the nail heads.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Careful on any cutter purchase. Are you lugs 7/16" or 1/2"? A 100 on that tool, but I don't see an ID size for it.
Don’t cut those pins, the shoes will **** sideways and it will all bind up. It may get them loose from the drum, but the adjuster is frozen so it won’t come off.
Cutting the pins is last resort, and you aren’t there yet.
Put the wheel back on and put it on the ground with the bearing removed. That will help break,the shoes loose.
Your stuck drum is Still swedged on so it’s all one piece.
Heat the adjuster through the adjuster holes and that will free it up. Aim the heat to the where the threads are inside the adjuster, not the exposed threads. You will need a cutting torch for this.
Cutting the pins is last resort, and you aren’t there yet.
Put the wheel back on and put it on the ground with the bearing removed. That will help break,the shoes loose.
Your stuck drum is Still swedged on so it’s all one piece.
Heat the adjuster through the adjuster holes and that will free it up. Aim the heat to the where the threads are inside the adjuster, not the exposed threads. You will need a cutting torch for this.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Swedged. Get a 5/8 metal cutting hole saw and go down around the studs. Cut clean through the DRUM ONLY. Don't cut through the hub, JUST the drum. Once you do all five, the drum will separate from the hub.....course you need to get the drum and hub off first. lol
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
So interesting all the problems we run into.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Well crap. Pins cut. Probably cocked sideways.
Torch is empty. Maybe I can fit the plasma cutter up in the wedged out part of the bottom.
Probably not.
Torch is empty. Maybe I can fit the plasma cutter up in the wedged out part of the bottom.
Probably not.
Because the springs are holding it on. You should listen instead of acting. We're trying to help.
You need to work on getting that self adjuster freed up. As much effort as you given everything that hasn't worked, if you'd concentrated on that, you'd have the drum off by now.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
Ok, so now, release the torsion bar bolt on the front side of the torsion bar?
then the four large bolts on the back of the plate?
then the hub will fall off. Then I can take it to a shop with a drill press for swedge removal.
Then I can actually get this thing to roll.
Is this the correct order?
then the four large bolts on the back of the plate?
then the hub will fall off. Then I can take it to a shop with a drill press for swedge removal.
Then I can actually get this thing to roll.
Is this the correct order?
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
I jumped the gun. Had em cut before I was told not to. My bad.
If the shoes are stuck to the drum, then you can take the drum with the shoes and all the springs off once you get the bearing nut off which you already have...
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
And I do appreciate all the help. Thank you very much. Wish you could sit in my garage with me and have a beer. Or a tea. Or whatever your pleasure is.
I typically only have one day a week to work on anything car related and this dang rust free notchback roller is killing my garage space.
I typically only have one day a week to work on anything car related and this dang rust free notchback roller is killing my garage space.
No biggie. It's just pins. You can buy some more. "I" would concentrate on getting that adjuster freed up. Soak it down with Sea Foam Deep Creep. It actually works better than PBlaster....and I never thought I'd say that. Soak it down HARD for a day. It'll give it up. But remember, to turn it backwards, you must hole the self adjuster lever OFF of the toothed wheel, or it will lock it from turning backwards.
Me too! We'd have that beeotch off in no time and have some fun fixin your brakes up.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Don't know why one would disagree with this I was just about to suggest this. Sometimes you have to unbolt the wheel cylinder as well to give it a bit more "wiggle room
I agree, I can't understand why someone would disagree...
But you are the second one to agree, so I can't be that far off...
pishta
I know I'm right....
I removed a hub with my frozen drums. Took the bearing out and beat the drum side to side with a hammer after I loosened the adjuster as far as I could . finally got it off and tried to press the hub out the drum. Ended up bending the F'n drum as it was still swedged on. ended up buying a drum and a hub from here and installing it with new knurled studs that never fit perfectly because the person I bought the hub from must have beat the old studs out though the front taking the factory knurles with it so yeah....that corner is a little shaky removing the lug nuts as I'm scared one will start spinning in the knurls. They pulled in pretty tight but still not spec. Oh, I forgot, I went to disks shortly after this so no worries on the lugs now!
You ain't. Sometimes that's what it takes. I've had to do it before.....get the torch out too. I try to leave "tearin stuff up" as a last resort.....though sometimes that's all that works.
Not a darn thing wrong with spot welding the studs to the back of the hub. Done it a few times meeeeself.
I've cut the drums in half and pried them apart before, then realized that I could have just ground the nail heads off instead...
Yup. Me too. LMAO
You cannot unbolt the backing plate from the car without the drum off, there are 4 nuts and bolts holding it on and you need to access both sides.
And why the big desire to cut the Swedges? That’s not going to gain you anything. The drum is stuck to the shoes, the bearings look greasy and not rusted so they will come off when the drum is free.
And why the big desire to cut the Swedges? That’s not going to gain you anything. The drum is stuck to the shoes, the bearings look greasy and not rusted so they will come off when the drum is free.
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