The brake switch has a lot of adjustment if you loosen the bolt on the bracket. The bracket bolt is almost impossible to see unless you are in the right position. I think you need to be towards the passenger side.
Brake lights staying on
- Thread starter crewchief
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I'll have to get under there and look. With my bifocals I have issues.
I have the same problem, except add back, hands, elbows & about anything else that moves....
Nice catch on the bracket! Glad you found it.
Exactly, If I can get in there I might need help getting out. I fix a lot by feel nowdays unless it's right in front of my face.
Yep, getting old aint for sissies! LOL
Been fighting this same issue with my Dart for a long time. Got to the point where I wired a lamp inside so I could seen when the lights were stuck on. Careful using your foot to pull up on the pedal, I almost pulled the rod out at least once.
While I agree that a spring on the pedal is not the right solution, I finally resorted to the same (actually using a rubber band currently). If you use a spring, remember not to use too much tension as it is only that "O" ring like piece that is holding the push rod in.
I think the real issue with mine is that the bracket is metal fatigued and flexes just enough to not turn off the lights consistently. Probably a result of the pedal being pulled back when the master cylinder was replaced.
While I agree that a spring on the pedal is not the right solution, I finally resorted to the same (actually using a rubber band currently). If you use a spring, remember not to use too much tension as it is only that "O" ring like piece that is holding the push rod in.
I think the real issue with mine is that the bracket is metal fatigued and flexes just enough to not turn off the lights consistently. Probably a result of the pedal being pulled back when the master cylinder was replaced.
The bracket comes out if you can get to the bolt. You might be able to fix it up.
When it comes to brakes DO NOT modify the system! I can't say it enough, carefully investigate everything. Have second pair of eyes with you while you operate the brakes to see if anything doesn't look right.
Jax_1975_Dart
Well-Known Member
I read somewhere on this forum where sliding the brake sensor switch bracket (all the way forward) still did not turn off the brake lights after loosening it and moving it to the furthest forward position. I believe the solution ultimately was to loosen the brake switch bracket and flip the entire assembly and then take out the brake switch and thread it back into the opposite pedal facing side. Doing this helped to make sure the pedal wasn’t making contact anymore.
FWIW I’m having this exact issue - right now. I recently replaced my MC (4 wheel stock drum setup) and my brake lights never turn off unless I physically lift the pedal away from the firewall. I haven’t tried rotating the bracket to face opposite direction but, plan on trying that as a last resort. I also bought an after market switch/sensor (hoping it will make the gap work between the brake pedal assembly and the bracket).
Everyone is right in the fact that it’s a major pain in the “you know what” to see the fastener bolt for the bracket. If you have knee knocker AC; then visibility is non-existent from the passenger side.
FWIW I’m having this exact issue - right now. I recently replaced my MC (4 wheel stock drum setup) and my brake lights never turn off unless I physically lift the pedal away from the firewall. I haven’t tried rotating the bracket to face opposite direction but, plan on trying that as a last resort. I also bought an after market switch/sensor (hoping it will make the gap work between the brake pedal assembly and the bracket).
Everyone is right in the fact that it’s a major pain in the “you know what” to see the fastener bolt for the bracket. If you have knee knocker AC; then visibility is non-existent from the passenger side.
I've had the bracket out several times. Its stamped sheet metal. I've realigned it to strike on the center of the pedal arm, made sure it is flat (not the key slot), lubed the pivot (even thought it might be oblong), made sure the shoulder bolt isn't too tight, adjusted shoes/ lubed backing plate, etc. You can see the bracket flexing. Plan is to take some extruded aluminum angle stock and make a new bracket. Probably will do it when I upgrade to discs.
Above I mentioned being careful about a return spring and or pulling up on the pedal due to the grommet holding on the push rod. Yes, i know this is the wrong fix but many do it anyways.
Another thing to remember is what is holding the piston in the master cylinder. Many people have have installed the master with only that tear drop tab that ships with a replacement master. Doesn't take much force pulling back the pedal to bend that tab and then the piston pops out. There should be a plate with a boss for a dust boot to retain the piston.
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