Breaking in flat tappet cam

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xring

xring

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FABO'ers:
I know Comp Cams recommends an initial run-in without the inner spring on all their cams using dual springs. Is it really necessary on a small cam? I plan on using the XS282S (244/[email protected], .52/.54 lift) and the recommended 986 springs (322 lbs/inch).
Thanks.
 
im taking it this is a small block. I personally have never dun that just make shour you have good lube on the cam.double check every thing before you start have a water hose near by.then your ready to start turn the idel up to 1800or2000 leter run.for at lest twenty or therty min.iv never had a problem and have dun some pretty big cams.
 
I think you'll be fine as even the single spring recommended for their much smaller cams (#901) has a higher spring rate (353 lbs/in). Installed pressure and and open pressure are a bit higher on your double springs than the single spring but still under 300 lbs.
 
You need the joe gibbs zinc additive to brake a cam in or you will have a worn out lobe with in a month.You buy 6 bottles and a new filter and use it on 1-2 20-30 minute run.mrmopartech
 
godfatherofchry said:
im taking it this is a small block. I personally have never dun that just make shour you have good lube on the cam.double check every thing before you start have a water hose near by.then your ready to start turn the idel up to 1800or2000 leter run.for at lest twenty or therty min.iv never had a problem and have dun some pretty big cams.
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Ditto for me. I put in a small Summit cam in my small block, broke it in like godfather says ... no problemo! I used the assembly lube on the lobes that came with the cam and added Redline Break-in additive to the oil.
 
ya i keep forgetting about this new oil ?? i shour hope they did not do it to racing oil.i also yous lucas additive guess it will be alright.
 
Here's what we do.

Break it in as normal with only the outer, install the inner and run it again for another 15-20 minutes.

Use good oil and a break in lube additive.
 
You're posting on the web rather than listenign to the maker? No offense, but.. um... YEAH!!!! its important! No dual spring should be used to break ina cam. Always leave the inners out. I leave them out for the initial run and any basic tuning after. Then install them. I'm assuming the lifer rotation was already checked during assembly, as was the lifter bore clearances. The oil today does not allow any error. Also, prelube without using the starter and it HAS to fire on the first turn so be ready with full cooling system and any support stuff.
 
Longgone said:
If the manufacturer recommends it, then it`s a good idea to follow what they say.?
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moper said:
You're posting on the web rather than listenign to the maker? No offense, but.. um... YEAH!!!! ...
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I realize that the manufacturer will recommend the most conservative (safest) option here. But sometimes that will be a more of a marketing or legal department decision rather than engineering.

Just wondered what people are actually doing and what results they are getting.

No offense taken. Thanks for the responses.
 
I NEVER break them in using both springs just to be safe cause I don't like the extra work of ripping a new engine back apart and replacing the cam after 20 miles, just because you didn't follow the directions. Some manufacturers do over do it on recommendations but in this case it's warranted. Mainly cause the oil we have today is junk for flat tappet cam and lifters and that makes for a big problem. BTW: You consider that cam small? I guess it is compared to what you see on race tracks but it's pretty decent size for a street car.

Oh yeah, if you don't do it the way they say you also void the warranty. And they can tell if the lifters weren't rotating by looking at them so you won't fool them.
 
They advertise it as "The Green Oil". Is this the original Kendall GT-1. I used to run that stuff in my '68 Z-28 (solid lifters). When you removed the valve covers all you saw was spotless gray cast iron. Great oil!

Steve68 said:
Brad Penn Racing (American Refining Group) has oils with the high zinc all of us flat tappet cam folks need. Used to be the Kendall facillity.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/
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As others have all ready mentioned, I use either Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs for break-in and remove the inner springs. One thing I have done on the current408 build is to have the cam nitride-coated. Some will say it is not necessary. I look at it as added insurance. I have had my share of flattened lobes and if this helps with the break-in process, then so be it.
 
look at the zddp fating on Kendel gt1 racing oil 2270 ppm rating higher than any other oil out there and more than enough for brake in
 
clifftt said:
Ditto for me. I put in a small Summit cam in my small block, broke it in like godfather says ... no problemo! I used the assembly lube on the lobes that came with the cam and added Redline Break-in additive to the oil.
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You really should follow the instructions for the removal of the inner spring during break in.
The oil is very important as well, the site with the best info I've found is called bobistheoilguy. After many tests of virgin oil, and used oil, you can see some valuable info out of the threads. It is written by engineer types, and can get hard to follow at times. This red line additive got very positive reviews for levels of ZDDP after being added to some crappy (800 PPM) shelf type oils. Also, you get enough to treat two full oil changes in one bottle. I've tried Comp Cams, Crane, and Jegs additives as well. They all seemed to work. Follow correct break in procedure with 20+ minutes above 2000 RPM.
Goodluck, mike
 
xring said:
I realize that the manufacturer will recommend the most conservative (safest) option here. But sometimes that will be a more of a marketing or legal department decision rather than engineering.

Just wondered what people are actually doing and what results they are getting.

No offense taken. Thanks for the responses.
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Sometimes, you should stop thinking and just do what the manufacture sez to do. This would be one of them.
 
Heres what we do put the cam in or the complete motor with the new cam installed in the car,prime it fire it up set the timing, idle speeds, check for leaks,take it out and run it at varying speeds to break in the cam and seat the rings...i know more people that have ruined cams by doing that 18-2000 rpm break in procedure,my engine builder laughs:laughing::laughing: every time he hears that...by the way we've never hurt a cam doing it this way,can;t say that about other methods...
 
Have to agree with you Stroked 340. I started driving back in '64 right in the midst of the super car era and and they ALL had flat tappet camshafts, be it hydraulic or solid lifter. You would pick up your new ride at your favorite dealer, my 1st being a '68 Z-28, run around town a few minutes and then head for your favorite stretch of asphalt and let her rip. Not full out, You know what I mean. The metallurgy today has to be light years advanced now but you still need that ZDDP.

stroked 340 said:
Heres what we do put the cam in or the complete motor with the new cam installed in the car,prime it fire it up set the timing, idle speeds, check for leaks,take it out and run it at varying speeds to break in the cam and seat the rings...i know more people that have ruined cams by doing that 18-2000 rpm break in procedure,my engine builder laughs:laughing::laughing: every time he hears that...by the way we've never hurt a cam doing it this way,can;t say that about other methods...
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Where do you get this do GTXperience? Here is a site you and others may be interested in. Coated rod, main and cam bearings, lifters, piston skirts, etc.

http://www.calicocoatings.com/


GTXperience said:
As others have all ready mentioned, I use either Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs for break-in and remove the inner springs. One thing I have done on the current408 build is to have the cam nitride-coated. Some will say it is not necessary. I look at it as added insurance. I have had my share of flattened lobes and if this helps with the break-in process, then so be it.
Click to expand...
 
skybolt said:
Have to agree with you Stroked 340. I started driving back in '64 right in the midst of the super car era and and they ALL had flat tappet camshafts, be it hydraulic or solid lifter. You would pick up your new ride at your favorite dealer, my 1st being a '68 Z-28, run around town a few minutes and then head for your favorite stretch of asphalt and let her rip. Not full out, You know what I mean. The metallurgy today has to be light years advanced now but you still need that ZDDP.
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I didn't start driving till 79 but I did the same. Heck I even had a couple of old engines that would have a ton of miles on and a lifter went bad (not flat, blew their guts out) and I just pulled out the bad lifter and stuck in a new one. No special break in at all. Just stuck it in and drove the car off and they lasted. But that's when all oil had high ZDDP levels. The metallurgy is better nowadays but no matter what if the oil doesn't have the right ingredients (little or no ZDDP) you've got problems.
 
got 5 flat tappet in use, did not remove inner springs during break in.

the cams were coated with moly lube....oil pump primed, timing set, carb with gas, engine fired right of way... ran at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes or so....

they range from .525 lift to .640 lift ...
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sometimes, you should stop thinking and just do what the manufacture sez to do. This would be one of them.
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Not going to happen.

WAY too many times I've seen ONE example or case study extrapolated by marketing people, etc, to fit all cases.

In the absence of any other information, yes, I would blindly do what the manufacturer says.

What I'm doing here is gathering other information.
 
fishy68 said:
.... BTW: You consider that cam small? I guess it is compared to what you see on race tracks but it's pretty decent size for a street car.

....
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I think there is a specific definition of small and big cams and this one definitely falls in the "small" category. If nobody chimes in I'll see if I can't find the reference. It surprised me at the time I read it at how "big" a "small" cam could be.
 
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